Anasazi Heritage Center

Anasazi Heritage Center - Canyons of the Ancients National Monument

27501 Highway 184
Dolores, Colorado, 81323

(970) 882-5600

Website: http://www.blm.gov/co/st/en/fo/ahc.html


After four years of driving by the Center and saying, "need to check it out", it finally happened and hubby and I were blown away.  The Anasazi Heritage Center is beautifully done, not just on the outside, but also inside.  Once you've parked your vehicle in the lot, you can walk immediately to the main building which holds the exhibits, including a Pit Structure; or hike the half mile trail to the Escalante Pueblo.


Lets start with the main building with its lovely gardens, sculptures (such as the Chuska Puma pictured above), and exhibits.  The structure is a semi-circle with a large, open lobby and large windows allowing full light inside; the shop area is well lit and stocked with a large assortment of books, apparel, postcards, and various souvenirs.





The Main Exhibit Gallery holds well displayed examples of amazing pottery, weaving, apparel, tools and weapons of the ancient Native Americans.  Look for drawers labeled, "Look Inside Me" to find out further information about the exhibits; for example, the reasons behind holes in particular pieces of pottery.

 

Also in the Main Exhibit Gallery is a replica of a Pit Structure from the A.D. 800s; the original was excavated fully intact and the replica displays what was found inside.

The Discovery Room contains many more "Look Inside Me" drawers along with a center island of microscopes.  The microscopes are used to examine various petri (glass) dishes holding pottery, arrow heads, grain; this enables the viewer to get a more defined look into the structure of these items.  The items in the drawers allow a hands on approach; pieces can be lifted up with informational tags underneath.



There is a Special Exhibit Gallery which holds a specified exhibit each month geared towards science, history or art; also a Theatre and a Multi-Use room for events.

After being "wowed" by the exhibits, it's time to walk the path to the Pueblo ruins; there are picnic areas at the beginning, wooden benches along the entire way, and it is all wheelchair accessible also.  The first set of ruins is the Dominguez Pueblo which is set back amongst the trees and bushes.  This Pueblo was a single family dwelling; unfortunately the earth around the Kiva was unstable, so had to be filled in for safety.

Dominguez Pueblo
 

There will be informational signs here and there about the plants, trees and bushes native to the area.  This one on the Serviceberry gives an actual recipe; the signs are not only educational, but fun.

 

The trek to the Escalante Pueblo is a half mile, winding upwards along the concrete walkway.  Once you get to the actual ruins though, you will understand why the ancient peoples chose this area.  The vistas are breathtaking with views of the Rockies, Mesa Verde, Sleeping Ute Mountain, and the modern day McPhee Reservoir.  Unfortunately, this area of Colorado has been experiencing drought conditions since the spring; so McPhee Reservoir is barely discernible.

View of Rocky Mountains and McPhee Reservoir

The ruins of Escalante Pueblo are quite impressive; a multi-family structure with a large, intact Kiva.  Wildflowers have been allowed to grow in and around the Kiva; only enhancing its ancient beauty.

Escalante Pueblo

We are so thrilled that we finally took the time to visit the Anasazi Heritage Center; to miss out on this is a shame.  If you're traveling in the Cortez/Dolores, Colorado area, make the worthwhile trip to State Highway 184 and the Anasazi Heritage Center.

Mary Cokenour

Missing Out on Much of Wupatki Happens When You're Tired.

One day in April 2012, we decided to visit the Flagstaff, AZ area which happens to be about 6 - 7 hours away from where we lived. "What were we thinking?" didn't come to mind until after we got home very late that same night. With this story, you'll get a much better idea on why you need a couple of days, minimum, to visit the area, especially if you're throwing the Grand Canyon into the mix. Anyway, we arrived in Flagstaff around 12 Noon, toured the area a bit and then turned around for the long drive home. Oh wait, there's the sign for Sunset Crater Volcano; pull over, look at the map; oh what the heck, lets check it out. We follow the road to Cinder Falls Overlook eventually to get some shots of the crater and kind of wonder where the road continues off to. Look at the map again and, hey, there's a Native American monument with ruins; lets check it out!

While Wupatki National Monument was not on our original game plan, visiting it, even for a short amount of time, ended up being a very good thing for us.  You know that saying, "things happen for a reason"?  Well whatever spirits watch over the ruins blessed us with positive energy, and several events afterwards were definitely meant to be, and for our benefit.








Wupatki was made a National Monument in 1924; a preserve for ruins spread over 35,000 plus acres where various cultures existed from 500 A.D. to approximately 1250 before it was entirely abandoned.  Hunters, gatherers, farmers lived on this land; trade with other cultures could be traced to as far as the Gulf of Mexico.  That means that when the volcano at Sunset Crater exploded; people in nearby Wupatki were probably wondering if the gods had decided to destroy the Earth.

 

Coming in from Sunset Crater sort of means that we came via the backdoor to Wupatki; so we had no informational brochure until we finally got to the Visitors Center.  By then, however, we were tired, achy and grumpy; so missed out on much of the area in favor of getting home.  We intend on going back and doing the entire area next time though; with a celebration meal in one of Flagstaff's many eateries.

 

 

 

Anyway, after traveling down the roadway just a little bit, we first saw the sign for Wukoki Pueblo; but as you make the turn onto its road, the Ruins can be seen in the distance.  They are well preserved ruins with a tower that makes the site look similar to a castle; some of the rooms can be entered for further inspection.  This site was inhabited by The Sinaqua (1100 AD to 1250) who were believed to be the early ancestors of The Hopi.

 

 

From its vantage point atop a slight incline, the practically flat land can be observed for miles; an important benefit for defense.  There is a dirt trail that can be walked all around the Ruins, so you'll get a better idea of how large it truly is.   The Ruins have an ancient beauty to them, and yet you can still feel the strength of it.

The San Francisco Peaks can be seen rising up majestically in the distance.

 

 

As I already mentioned, we were very tired after reaching the Visitors Center, so just picked up a brochure and headed on our grumpy way.  Playing with my zoom lens, that is when I spotted some cliff ruins along Route 160; I made Roy pull over so I could get some shots.  After getting back on the road and only traveling a little way, we saw a small dog get hit and limp its way over to the guard rail.  I once again made Roy pull the vehicle over, grabbed a blanket and ran to the little one; I was certainly being watched over as vehicles speeding by avoided both of us, and parked vehicle.   Now I don't know what you believe, but I tell you that the spirits purposely timed our day, so we would be there to save that little dog.  She actually ended up being a four month old puppy, we named her Lucy, and she is the greatest bundle of joy; one of those gifts that we were meant to have.

Now as a tourist attraction, yes, I recommend visiting Wupatki National Monument when in the Flagstaff, Arizona area.  As to a spiritual fulfillment and gaining positive energy; oh yes, I highly recommend visiting Wupatki.  Enjoy the day!

Mary Cokenour

Sunset Crater Volcano; Photos Cannot Do it Justice.

Now when someone mentions volcano, I immediately think of the state of Hawaii; the Big Island still has active lava flows. I was on the island of Oahu twice; Diamond Head is a spectacular sight from a distance, not so much when you're up in the extinct crater. So, when traveling back to Utah along Route 89, after visiting Flagstaff, we saw the sign "Sunset Crater Volcano" with an arrow pointing at Route 545; we had to go check it out. I mean come on now, an actual volcano in Arizona!?! Roy and I ended up taking 120 photos; don't worry, I'll only be posting 16 of them, but no matter how many I share with you, they will not do this site justice.

You will not get the immensity of the landscaping; the walls of piled up boulders of lava; the feel of the soil; the feel of the lava rock itself; the twisted trunks of trees that did not burn.  As you walk the trail, the desolation takes your breath away and then suddenly, plant life growing up through the black soil, or between crevices in the lava rocks.  Taking a break upon the Lava Trail, the silence is eerie; there is obvious destruction as far as the eye can see, and yet it is beautiful.  Enough descriptive phrases, lets get to the photos, so you can try and get an idea of what we experienced.

The first map is of the general area; you see where the Volcano Monument area is in relation to Flagstaff, and how the road connects to Wupatki National Monument.  Hint, you will end up doing both Monuments; that's a given.

Map of General Area

Sunset Crater Volcano Map

As you drive along Route 545, you'll be in a well forested area and then suddenly the cooled lava flow will make its full presence known. Don't be surprised if you slam on the brakes to get a good viewing of it, and take photos. Being a cloudy day, I believe made the scenery around us look and feel more intense, or maybe it is like this all the time, no matter the weather.

After the Visitors Center, you end up at a parking lot near the beginning of a paved pathway.  A wooden bridge will take you over the first of the Bonito Lava Flow river beds; try to imagine lava running there instead of clear water.  The boulders are porous and yet can cut like glass, so be careful once you walk the actual lava trail.

Lava River Bed

There is a flatter section of black soil nearby with a dead tree; its silent story speaks volumes.

When the eruption year of the volcano was first estimated, it was by using the rings inside trees from the surrounding area (outside the burn zone of course); the year was 1065.  However, geologists were able to put a more accurate year to the time of eruption - 1085.




The paved walkway only goes for about a quarter of a mile before the Lava Trail begins; along the way you will appreciate the destructive force of the flowing molten liquid.

Here and there, take notice of how life is taking hold of this desolate landscape as plants grow in the blackened soil, and between crevices in the lava boulders.












The Lava Trail is a one mile, round trip, uneven path to the base of the crater; you will be walking over rough terrain, maybe even climbing over a boulder or two.  Take it slow and do not rub too hard against the lava boulders; they can be sharp.  Just ask my husband, Roy, how he ripped open one of his pants legs while pretending to be Indiana Jones.

 

 

 

 

Sunset Crater Volcano
 

Once you make your way back to your vehicle, get back onto Route 545 and follow it to the Cinder Hills Overlook for a fantastic view of the volcano.

 

 

Continue on Route 545 and the landscape will change from lava flow and forest to desert and sagebrush.  The San Francisco Peaks will be in the distance, to the left; as you enter Wupatki National Monument, prepare for a soul inspiring experience.  Till next time....

 

Mary Cokenour



Flagstaff, Arizona - The Old West Keeps a Toe Hold.

Route 89 in Arizona; if you decide to bypass Route 64 leading to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, then you're headed towards the San Francisco Peaks and Flagstaff. So now you're saying, "Really, pass up seeing the Grand Canyon?" No, not exactly; I'm suggesting you enhance the total experience with a visit to Flagstaff. In fact, if you have a couple of days to spend in the area, even better; visiting Wupatki National Monument and Sunset Crater Volcano is highly recommended, and I'll explain why in future writings.  Roy and I went to the Grand Canyon twice, once using Route 64 off Route 89 and once passing through Flagstaff via Route 180 to Route 64; basically it is a loop of sorts.  It's not that confusing, I promise.

Lets get this road trip started; so you've just done a rest stop at the Cameron Trading Post, gassed up the vehicle, maybe purchased one, oh who am I kidding, many souvenirs.  Traveling on Route 89 westward, you'll see the turnoff for Route 64 to the South Rim, but you're going to stay on Route 89 towards Flagstaff (two hours in travel time).  You'll notice that the landscape will begin to change from desert to more residential areas here and there, and much more greenery.  In the distance will be the San Francisco Peaks; a volcanic mountain range with Humphreys Peak as the highest point in the state of Arizona at 12,633 feet.  You'll be traveling through this range much later on when you finally get back on the road to the Grand Canyon.

San Francisco Peaks

As you begin to get closer to Flagstaff, the traffic will increase and the scenery will change drastically to typically urban encroachment...malls.  Starting to get hungry?  Hold off on that until you park in the older section of Flagstaff; there is a virtual smorgasbord of restaurants to choose from.  The biggest clue that it's time to park, get out and begin exploring the area is when you see the train engine pulling its load of timber; and the old train station which is now the Visitors Center.

I'm not going to give you a detailed history of Flagstaff; better yet, click HERE for the information guide given out by the Visitors Center. Oh, and for those interested in historic Route 66; this road through Flagstaff is part of it.




So, welcome to Flagstaff, Arizona; you're in the historic section with many of the original buildings sharing the city with modern attributes.  While in some cities, tall steel buildings overwhelm the historic ones, but Flagstaff has managed to avoid that mistake.  As I mentioned before, there is a cornucopia of restaurants, along with offices, retail stores and micro malls within buildings; one of which houses the Flagstaff Chocolate Company...yum!

Brick facade office buildings might have a small "park" for public use; showcasing works from local artists.  A mural decorates the outside of Diablo Burger restaurant, again displaying how the old and new have married well with each other.

Hotel Weatherford

Outside the Federal Building, old time street lamps are adorned in copper leafing.  The Hotel Weatherford (circa 1890) still stands on the corner of Aspen Avenue; a piece of history seems to be on almost every street in Flagstaff.






Alright, you've had a fun time in Flagstaff, but what about the Grand Canyon!?!  Simply head west on Route 89 until you see the sign for Route 180 and make a right onto it.  This will take you through the San Francisco Peaks, a wonderfully scenic ride; you'll eventually meet up with Route 64 again.  Just make a right and follow the route until you see the signs for the entrance to the Grand Canyon's South Rim.  See, not that confusing and you're dealing with major routes, no side roads to get lost on.

Route 180 through the San Francisco Peaks

Enjoy the visit to Flagstaff!

Mary Cokenour

First Time in Monument Valley was a Bust...a Busted Tire That is.

Recently, Roy and I were very fortunate to be able to go on a guided tour of Monument Valley, but that wasn't our first time there.  Well, lets say it wasn't our first time there, but it was the first time we got to see a major part of it.  Alright, lets go back in time to 2009 and the decision to finally get to the Valley.  Then, we only had passenger cars, so decided to take Roy's Grand Am; I had a small digital camera with only 7 pixels, so many of the photos were not the greatest. 

"The Birthday Cake"

Going past the town of Bluff, you have to make sure to pay attention to the road signs. There is a point where Route 191 splits off to the southeast, and you want to continue your travels on Route 163 which goes directly to Monument Valley. The landscape along the twisty road is amazing and eventually you will see a little sign that indicates the entrance to Valley of the Gods. This is a gravel road, so not having a 4 wheel drive vehicle at the time put this on our "to-do" list. Another road recently put on our "to-do" list, and is before you reach Mexican Hat, is Route 261; Valley of the Gods, Goosenecks State Park and the 3 miles of switchbacks called the "Moki Dugway" eventually end you up at Route 95 and near Natural Bridges National Monument.





Digressing here; you know you're getting near to the little town of Mexican Hat when you see, well what else, the Mexican Hat formation.   There is a pull in spot along Route 163 for photos, or you can travel the gravel road that goes directly to the formation itself.  The town of Mexican Hat is also your last rest stop/gas up the vehicle place before you reach Monument Valley.



After passing Mexican Hat, the landscape takes on a more intense look; walls of rock with "waves" or "goosenecks" carved by wind and rain; formations large and small; and then in the distance you begin to see the outskirts of the Valley.  Your heart may skip a beat or two in excitement and anticipation.

Warning!  Drivers will become overwhelmed by the sight of Monument Valley; all common sense and knowledge about the rules of the road will go completely out of their heads.  Keep a distance from vehicles as they will make a sudden stop directly on the road or pull off with screeching tires onto gravel lined, unlevel viewpoints.  Passengers with cameras are likely to walk onto the road without a single glance in either direction for moving vehicles.  Consider yourself warned.

I will admit that we were one of those drivers who suddenly pulled onto one of those gravel lined viewpoints and I bet that is how we got our busted tire....but the story continues.

As you get closer to the Valley, the road still gives a twist here and there, but it is when you go over that last hump that the most glorious site fills your eyes.  It is that classic scene from movies, like "Forrest Gump", that most have seen and wished to see up close and personal...we got that chance.  The sight is simply amazing!

 

 

 

 

 

As you get closer, it just keeps getting better and better!

 

 

Eventually you will reach a crossroad, one way is the entrance to Monument Valley where you'll pay your fee ($5 per person), go to the Visitors' Center, check in at the View Hotel (if you're staying there), go on a self guided tour, or one of the guided tours.  Another way is towards Goulding's and I'll be writing about that at another time; but I highly recommend one of the guided tours they run...great experience!  Of course you can continue on straight along Route 163 into Arizona and wherever it is you're traveling onto.

Anyway, we paid our fee, parked at the Visitor's Center and looked over the Valley from the terrace.  Indescribably beautiful; again a classic photo scene...The Left and Right Mittens, and Merrick Butte.  No photo can do it complete justice, especially once you've seen them directly in front of you.

Left Mitten

Right Mitten

We were getting ready to do the self guided tour when we saw it; one of the car's tires had split, the rubber that is.  No way were we going to attempt the tour; there was no where to get a new tire, so the only option was to limp home and get it repaired in Monticello.  Talk about disappointment!

Then again, it was a blessing of sorts also.  The self guided tour is very short; if you want to get a more intense experience, then you have to go on one of the guided tours.  Basically, most of the roads are either private (yes, people do live in the Valley as they have for centuries), or only accessible via a guided tour.  Oh, the roads down there, yeah, about that; honestly, unless you are a complete maniac and truly hate your vehicle..do the guided tour.  First off, someone else is doing the driving for you; second, the Navajo guides are wonderful, and why not, it is their heritage they're telling you about.  You'll hear stories and information that no guide book has, related in proud voices.

This is not the last story about Monument Valley, you can bet good money on that.

Mary Cokenour