Missing Out on Much of Wupatki Happens When You're Tired.

One day in April 2012, we decided to visit the Flagstaff, AZ area which happens to be about 6 - 7 hours away from where we lived. "What were we thinking?" didn't come to mind until after we got home very late that same night. With this story, you'll get a much better idea on why you need a couple of days, minimum, to visit the area, especially if you're throwing the Grand Canyon into the mix. Anyway, we arrived in Flagstaff around 12 Noon, toured the area a bit and then turned around for the long drive home. Oh wait, there's the sign for Sunset Crater Volcano; pull over, look at the map; oh what the heck, lets check it out. We follow the road to Cinder Falls Overlook eventually to get some shots of the crater and kind of wonder where the road continues off to. Look at the map again and, hey, there's a Native American monument with ruins; lets check it out!

While Wupatki National Monument was not on our original game plan, visiting it, even for a short amount of time, ended up being a very good thing for us.  You know that saying, "things happen for a reason"?  Well whatever spirits watch over the ruins blessed us with positive energy, and several events afterwards were definitely meant to be, and for our benefit.








Wupatki was made a National Monument in 1924; a preserve for ruins spread over 35,000 plus acres where various cultures existed from 500 A.D. to approximately 1250 before it was entirely abandoned.  Hunters, gatherers, farmers lived on this land; trade with other cultures could be traced to as far as the Gulf of Mexico.  That means that when the volcano at Sunset Crater exploded; people in nearby Wupatki were probably wondering if the gods had decided to destroy the Earth.

 

Coming in from Sunset Crater sort of means that we came via the backdoor to Wupatki; so we had no informational brochure until we finally got to the Visitors Center.  By then, however, we were tired, achy and grumpy; so missed out on much of the area in favor of getting home.  We intend on going back and doing the entire area next time though; with a celebration meal in one of Flagstaff's many eateries.

 

 

 

Anyway, after traveling down the roadway just a little bit, we first saw the sign for Wukoki Pueblo; but as you make the turn onto its road, the Ruins can be seen in the distance.  They are well preserved ruins with a tower that makes the site look similar to a castle; some of the rooms can be entered for further inspection.  This site was inhabited by The Sinaqua (1100 AD to 1250) who were believed to be the early ancestors of The Hopi.

 

 

From its vantage point atop a slight incline, the practically flat land can be observed for miles; an important benefit for defense.  There is a dirt trail that can be walked all around the Ruins, so you'll get a better idea of how large it truly is.   The Ruins have an ancient beauty to them, and yet you can still feel the strength of it.

The San Francisco Peaks can be seen rising up majestically in the distance.

 

 

As I already mentioned, we were very tired after reaching the Visitors Center, so just picked up a brochure and headed on our grumpy way.  Playing with my zoom lens, that is when I spotted some cliff ruins along Route 160; I made Roy pull over so I could get some shots.  After getting back on the road and only traveling a little way, we saw a small dog get hit and limp its way over to the guard rail.  I once again made Roy pull the vehicle over, grabbed a blanket and ran to the little one; I was certainly being watched over as vehicles speeding by avoided both of us, and parked vehicle.   Now I don't know what you believe, but I tell you that the spirits purposely timed our day, so we would be there to save that little dog.  She actually ended up being a four month old puppy, we named her Lucy, and she is the greatest bundle of joy; one of those gifts that we were meant to have.

Now as a tourist attraction, yes, I recommend visiting Wupatki National Monument when in the Flagstaff, Arizona area.  As to a spiritual fulfillment and gaining positive energy; oh yes, I highly recommend visiting Wupatki.  Enjoy the day!

Mary Cokenour

Sunset Crater Volcano; Photos Cannot Do it Justice.

Now when someone mentions volcano, I immediately think of the state of Hawaii; the Big Island still has active lava flows. I was on the island of Oahu twice; Diamond Head is a spectacular sight from a distance, not so much when you're up in the extinct crater. So, when traveling back to Utah along Route 89, after visiting Flagstaff, we saw the sign "Sunset Crater Volcano" with an arrow pointing at Route 545; we had to go check it out. I mean come on now, an actual volcano in Arizona!?! Roy and I ended up taking 120 photos; don't worry, I'll only be posting 16 of them, but no matter how many I share with you, they will not do this site justice.

You will not get the immensity of the landscaping; the walls of piled up boulders of lava; the feel of the soil; the feel of the lava rock itself; the twisted trunks of trees that did not burn.  As you walk the trail, the desolation takes your breath away and then suddenly, plant life growing up through the black soil, or between crevices in the lava rocks.  Taking a break upon the Lava Trail, the silence is eerie; there is obvious destruction as far as the eye can see, and yet it is beautiful.  Enough descriptive phrases, lets get to the photos, so you can try and get an idea of what we experienced.

The first map is of the general area; you see where the Volcano Monument area is in relation to Flagstaff, and how the road connects to Wupatki National Monument.  Hint, you will end up doing both Monuments; that's a given.

Map of General Area

Sunset Crater Volcano Map

As you drive along Route 545, you'll be in a well forested area and then suddenly the cooled lava flow will make its full presence known. Don't be surprised if you slam on the brakes to get a good viewing of it, and take photos. Being a cloudy day, I believe made the scenery around us look and feel more intense, or maybe it is like this all the time, no matter the weather.

After the Visitors Center, you end up at a parking lot near the beginning of a paved pathway.  A wooden bridge will take you over the first of the Bonito Lava Flow river beds; try to imagine lava running there instead of clear water.  The boulders are porous and yet can cut like glass, so be careful once you walk the actual lava trail.

Lava River Bed

There is a flatter section of black soil nearby with a dead tree; its silent story speaks volumes.

When the eruption year of the volcano was first estimated, it was by using the rings inside trees from the surrounding area (outside the burn zone of course); the year was 1065.  However, geologists were able to put a more accurate year to the time of eruption - 1085.




The paved walkway only goes for about a quarter of a mile before the Lava Trail begins; along the way you will appreciate the destructive force of the flowing molten liquid.

Here and there, take notice of how life is taking hold of this desolate landscape as plants grow in the blackened soil, and between crevices in the lava boulders.












The Lava Trail is a one mile, round trip, uneven path to the base of the crater; you will be walking over rough terrain, maybe even climbing over a boulder or two.  Take it slow and do not rub too hard against the lava boulders; they can be sharp.  Just ask my husband, Roy, how he ripped open one of his pants legs while pretending to be Indiana Jones.

 

 

 

 

Sunset Crater Volcano
 

Once you make your way back to your vehicle, get back onto Route 545 and follow it to the Cinder Hills Overlook for a fantastic view of the volcano.

 

 

Continue on Route 545 and the landscape will change from lava flow and forest to desert and sagebrush.  The San Francisco Peaks will be in the distance, to the left; as you enter Wupatki National Monument, prepare for a soul inspiring experience.  Till next time....

 

Mary Cokenour