Painted Hand Pueblo - Canyon of the Ancients.

We had finished our shopping in Cortez (Walmart and City Market) and took Route 145 to the turn off to McPhee Reservoir; it takes about the same time in travel back to Monticello, but it's more scenic and relaxing this way. We were just about to pass by the Anasazi Heritage Center when I suggested we stop in to check out the brochures. Good thing we did! They had available a detailed map of Canyon of the Ancients, and pamphlets on Painted Hand Pueblo and Sand Canyon Pueblo; all for free!

To better understand the pueblo sites you can drive, and do short hikes, to, I'm going to post two maps; the standard Canyon of the Ancients map, and a map I created using Utah's Canyonlands See & Do Map (available at the Monticello Welcome Center in Monticello, UT).

When traveling east on Route 491 from Monticello, UT to Cortez, CO; MC RD BB is about a mile east of the small town of Pleasant View (this is also the road to Hovenweep National Monument), go six miles and make the left onto Road 10.  For those who need to know, these roads are either a non-maintained paved road, graded (pounded down and leveled) dirt road, or a combination of both.  It shouldn't matter how many miles is which type; you should only care about really going to see this awesome site, as well as the others.  Anyway, stay on Road 10 to Painted Hand Pueblo (BLM RD 4531) for 11.4 miles (total is 17.4 miles from Route 491), then a mile to the parking area and start of the trailhead.

Scenery Along Road 10

Parking Area and Trailhead

The trail for Painted Hand is all natural; sand, dirt, slickrock and rocks; you will have to climb down over, and eventually back up, boulders.  As soon as you begin walking from the parking area, you'll begin seeing the beautiful landscape of the canyon.  Then comes the first sighting of Painted Hand Pueblo's Tower ruin; by the way, the entire trail is about a half mile roundtrip.

Landscape around the ruins.

Trail to the Tower

After you take the trail to the Tower, don't be so quick to get back to the parking area, and I'll show you why after these photos of the Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ruins below the Tower.

 

So, why shouldn't you now climb over those boulders and get back to your vehicle?  There is a path leading to the left, through the trees, that opens up to another ruin site, that's why!

 

Ruins down below.

 

Don't be surprised to find you're being watched by the local wildlife; and take time to admire the flowers growing up from the desert floor.

Chihuahuan Spotted Whiptail Lizard

 

Eastern Fence Lizard

Painted Milkvetch



The Hopi that had built this pueblo and lived in this canyon area moved on to new places and have since passed; their descendants live on.  Come to this area to enjoy the history, the landscape and the serenity.   Unless something more pressing comes to mind, I will be writing about Sand Canyon Pueblo next.

Mary Cokenour

Anasazi Heritage Center

Anasazi Heritage Center - Canyons of the Ancients National Monument

27501 Highway 184
Dolores, Colorado, 81323

(970) 882-5600

Website: http://www.blm.gov/co/st/en/fo/ahc.html


After four years of driving by the Center and saying, "need to check it out", it finally happened and hubby and I were blown away.  The Anasazi Heritage Center is beautifully done, not just on the outside, but also inside.  Once you've parked your vehicle in the lot, you can walk immediately to the main building which holds the exhibits, including a Pit Structure; or hike the half mile trail to the Escalante Pueblo.


Lets start with the main building with its lovely gardens, sculptures (such as the Chuska Puma pictured above), and exhibits.  The structure is a semi-circle with a large, open lobby and large windows allowing full light inside; the shop area is well lit and stocked with a large assortment of books, apparel, postcards, and various souvenirs.





The Main Exhibit Gallery holds well displayed examples of amazing pottery, weaving, apparel, tools and weapons of the ancient Native Americans.  Look for drawers labeled, "Look Inside Me" to find out further information about the exhibits; for example, the reasons behind holes in particular pieces of pottery.

 

Also in the Main Exhibit Gallery is a replica of a Pit Structure from the A.D. 800s; the original was excavated fully intact and the replica displays what was found inside.

The Discovery Room contains many more "Look Inside Me" drawers along with a center island of microscopes.  The microscopes are used to examine various petri (glass) dishes holding pottery, arrow heads, grain; this enables the viewer to get a more defined look into the structure of these items.  The items in the drawers allow a hands on approach; pieces can be lifted up with informational tags underneath.



There is a Special Exhibit Gallery which holds a specified exhibit each month geared towards science, history or art; also a Theatre and a Multi-Use room for events.

After being "wowed" by the exhibits, it's time to walk the path to the Pueblo ruins; there are picnic areas at the beginning, wooden benches along the entire way, and it is all wheelchair accessible also.  The first set of ruins is the Dominguez Pueblo which is set back amongst the trees and bushes.  This Pueblo was a single family dwelling; unfortunately the earth around the Kiva was unstable, so had to be filled in for safety.

Dominguez Pueblo
 

There will be informational signs here and there about the plants, trees and bushes native to the area.  This one on the Serviceberry gives an actual recipe; the signs are not only educational, but fun.

 

The trek to the Escalante Pueblo is a half mile, winding upwards along the concrete walkway.  Once you get to the actual ruins though, you will understand why the ancient peoples chose this area.  The vistas are breathtaking with views of the Rockies, Mesa Verde, Sleeping Ute Mountain, and the modern day McPhee Reservoir.  Unfortunately, this area of Colorado has been experiencing drought conditions since the spring; so McPhee Reservoir is barely discernible.

View of Rocky Mountains and McPhee Reservoir

The ruins of Escalante Pueblo are quite impressive; a multi-family structure with a large, intact Kiva.  Wildflowers have been allowed to grow in and around the Kiva; only enhancing its ancient beauty.

Escalante Pueblo

We are so thrilled that we finally took the time to visit the Anasazi Heritage Center; to miss out on this is a shame.  If you're traveling in the Cortez/Dolores, Colorado area, make the worthwhile trip to State Highway 184 and the Anasazi Heritage Center.

Mary Cokenour

Missing Out on Much of Wupatki Happens When You're Tired.

One day in April 2012, we decided to visit the Flagstaff, AZ area which happens to be about 6 - 7 hours away from where we lived. "What were we thinking?" didn't come to mind until after we got home very late that same night. With this story, you'll get a much better idea on why you need a couple of days, minimum, to visit the area, especially if you're throwing the Grand Canyon into the mix. Anyway, we arrived in Flagstaff around 12 Noon, toured the area a bit and then turned around for the long drive home. Oh wait, there's the sign for Sunset Crater Volcano; pull over, look at the map; oh what the heck, lets check it out. We follow the road to Cinder Falls Overlook eventually to get some shots of the crater and kind of wonder where the road continues off to. Look at the map again and, hey, there's a Native American monument with ruins; lets check it out!

While Wupatki National Monument was not on our original game plan, visiting it, even for a short amount of time, ended up being a very good thing for us.  You know that saying, "things happen for a reason"?  Well whatever spirits watch over the ruins blessed us with positive energy, and several events afterwards were definitely meant to be, and for our benefit.








Wupatki was made a National Monument in 1924; a preserve for ruins spread over 35,000 plus acres where various cultures existed from 500 A.D. to approximately 1250 before it was entirely abandoned.  Hunters, gatherers, farmers lived on this land; trade with other cultures could be traced to as far as the Gulf of Mexico.  That means that when the volcano at Sunset Crater exploded; people in nearby Wupatki were probably wondering if the gods had decided to destroy the Earth.

 

Coming in from Sunset Crater sort of means that we came via the backdoor to Wupatki; so we had no informational brochure until we finally got to the Visitors Center.  By then, however, we were tired, achy and grumpy; so missed out on much of the area in favor of getting home.  We intend on going back and doing the entire area next time though; with a celebration meal in one of Flagstaff's many eateries.

 

 

 

Anyway, after traveling down the roadway just a little bit, we first saw the sign for Wukoki Pueblo; but as you make the turn onto its road, the Ruins can be seen in the distance.  They are well preserved ruins with a tower that makes the site look similar to a castle; some of the rooms can be entered for further inspection.  This site was inhabited by The Sinaqua (1100 AD to 1250) who were believed to be the early ancestors of The Hopi.

 

 

From its vantage point atop a slight incline, the practically flat land can be observed for miles; an important benefit for defense.  There is a dirt trail that can be walked all around the Ruins, so you'll get a better idea of how large it truly is.   The Ruins have an ancient beauty to them, and yet you can still feel the strength of it.

The San Francisco Peaks can be seen rising up majestically in the distance.

 

 

As I already mentioned, we were very tired after reaching the Visitors Center, so just picked up a brochure and headed on our grumpy way.  Playing with my zoom lens, that is when I spotted some cliff ruins along Route 160; I made Roy pull over so I could get some shots.  After getting back on the road and only traveling a little way, we saw a small dog get hit and limp its way over to the guard rail.  I once again made Roy pull the vehicle over, grabbed a blanket and ran to the little one; I was certainly being watched over as vehicles speeding by avoided both of us, and parked vehicle.   Now I don't know what you believe, but I tell you that the spirits purposely timed our day, so we would be there to save that little dog.  She actually ended up being a four month old puppy, we named her Lucy, and she is the greatest bundle of joy; one of those gifts that we were meant to have.

Now as a tourist attraction, yes, I recommend visiting Wupatki National Monument when in the Flagstaff, Arizona area.  As to a spiritual fulfillment and gaining positive energy; oh yes, I highly recommend visiting Wupatki.  Enjoy the day!

Mary Cokenour