Valley of the Gods Travel Guide.

Valley of the Gods is often referred to as a “miniature version of Monument Valley”, this area has a collection of formations, arches & ruin sites

•          Location is 68.1 miles from Monticello; travel 50.7 miles along Hwy 191 until it changes to Hwy 163 west of Bluff, travel for 12.4 miles and make a right onto Valley of the Gods Rd (there will be an indication sign), travel 1.3 miles and turn left to continue.

•          The road through Valley of the Gods is a 17 mile graded gravel & clay road; accessible to any type of passenger vehicle; it is best for car travel only during dry conditions. 

•          Open year round.  Estimated time to visit: 2-4 hours.

•          Admission: Free

•          Camping: several camp sites along route, free, first come/first serve, NO campfires allowed.

•          The Valley of the Gods Bed & Breakfast is located near the Route 261 access/exit.

•          Pets - must be leashed at all times, owners are expected to pick up after their pet(s).

•          Website: https://www.blm.gov/office/monticello-field-office  BLM – Monticello Field Office is located at 365 North Main (Hwy 191), Monticello

•          Phone: (435) 587-1500

Mary Cokenour

Pair of Ears to an Upside Down Sombrero.

One of the most popular routes to travel in San Juan County is Route 261.  It can easily be accessed from State Highway 95, and you'll be on it for various reasons.  There are all the ruin sites at Butler Wash and Mule Canyon, Comb Ridge, Natural Bridges National Monument.  The one that everyone wants to see nowadays is Bears Ears which has been getting a lot of hoopla for the past few years.

Have to admit, at first I was for the proposed National Monument; I wanted to see more businesses develop, more housing, employment opportunities for all.  However, I sort of went against it due to those, who didn't even live in San Juan County, trying to establish rules and regulations for the local residents.  All the verbal fighting, busing in of protestors for and against, and they didn't even know what it was they were protesting about.

What really put a sour taste in my mouth is, being an informational guide, being challenged on my opinion of the National Monument.  At that point I developed the "I don't care" stance.  Asked whether I was for or against, my response was "I don't care", and stopped the conversation right then and there!  Having polite discussion is one thing; attacking someone immediately on their opinion, before it's even stated, and the attacker doesn't even know why they're doing it...yeah, not polite at all.

So, if you're needing to see the Bears Ears themselves, here is how to find them.  Once on SH 95, keep on driving west until you see the sign that says, "Natural Bridges/Bears Ears", make a right onto the roadway.  It splits, left will take you to Natural Bridges; keep on going straight and up the side of the mesa you will go.  Yes, left hand is paved.  No, up the mesa way is unpaved; and if it's wet, especially after heavy rain and/or snow, chances are you will get stuck.  This way will take you up to the Ears themselves, drive through them, and into the Manti-Lasal National Forest you will go.  Now, do they look like ears when you're this close to them, nope, nada, nyet, nein; just two buttes with no similarity in shape.

Now back to where I first started this write up, Route 261.  Once you see the sign for it, make a left hand turn, and this roadway is paved until you reach the junction for Muley Point or the Moki Dugway.  But wait, don't keep driving all the way yet!  Once you're on 261, go about 3 miles, pull over, stop the vehicle and get out; be careful of any other vehicles on the road.  Now look back from where you came from, yes, I need to add this, look towards SH 95.  Now you will see and understand why the Bears Ears are called the Bears Ears; imagination is a plus.

The Bears Ears, looking northward from Route 261.

 No imagination?  Outlined in photo, do you see it now?

The Bears Ears, outlined ears, eyes and nose of the bear.

In the book, Utah's Canyon Country Place Names, Vol. 1, by Steve Allen, page 43 has references to the origins of the Bears Ears name.  Shasha'a is Navajo and dates back to around 1620; Kwiya-gat Nügavat is Ute (no date listed), and in the 1700s, the Spanish explorers called them Las Orejas del Oso.  While all mean, in some form, Bears Ears, there was no story listed behind the name; let's presume then it's due to the ears and face seen from Route 261.

Back in the vehicle, start driving again; you'll be going through the Grand Gluch/Cedar Mesa area which allows camping and hiking.  Stop at the BLM office in Monticello to get information and permits, or at the Kane Gulch Ranger Station located on Route 261 itself.

Eventually you'll see, on the right, a sign for Muley Point; 3.4 mile gravel, yes gravel, road (7.4 miles round trip) which ends at slickrock ledges overlooking the walls of the Goosenecks, a trail into Johns Canyon, and a view of Monument Valley in the distance.

Once you're back to 261, head on down the Moki Dugway and have a most awesome ride down the side of the Cedar Mesa.

My hubby, Roy, doing some videography work of the Moki Dugway.

Just taking a break, watching hubby do his video thing.  Many times I have been asked to be an actual tour guide, but wherever I was working at the time wouldn't let me...liability insurance thing.  I may not be with you in person, but I know my travel guide will get you to where you want to go.

 (Disclaimer needed:  Yes, I own this travel guide.  No agency, business or any other person owns it.)

Enough boring stuff.  We always enjoy riding down the Moki, as both of us can see the views of the Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley.  Riding upward is kind of lame, well for us, as the passenger is usually staring at the red rock walls, while the driver is too busy looking upwards at the road.  Hey, but at least we tried both ways to see which we enjoyed most; so please do that as well.

Once down, you can take the 17 mile, one way, dirt/gravel (no, it's not paved) road through the Valley of the Gods, or continue onto pavement to Goosenecks State Park. 

Valley of the Gods

Once off 261, you'll be on Hwy. 163; left will take you up to Bluff, right will take you past Mexican Hat Rock, into the tiny town of Mexican Hat, across the San Juan River and towards Monument Valley.

By the way, I'm often asked the best time of day to be in a certain place.  Answer is, anytime!  Sunrise, morning, midday, sunset, even during the night when the stars are shining brightly (hopefully you're camping or outside somewhere to enjoy them).  Alright, darkness of night might not be the best time for sightseeing, but what I'm trying to get clear is, "Don't limit yourself!"

Here is Mexican Hat Rock at sunset and it's so intense!

The Great Serpent

Toad Stools along a ridge.

Continuing on towards Monument Valley, you'll pass by Alhambra Rock.  

Alhambra Rock

Oh, and now let's get calm here; yes, Monument Valley is an exciting, scenic place.  Yes, it was featured in the movie Forrest Gump, but you're on a major thoroughfare going through, it's a highway!  Pull over in designated parking areas, there is a ton of them all along the highway.  Don't stand, or lay down, in the center of the highway....this makes you a speed bump!  The speed limit is between 55 to 65 miles/hour; you are a traffic hazard if you suddenly stop and jump out of your vehicle to take photos.  

*sigh*  I can only give a warning, but can't make anyone heed it, if they wish not to.  Please don't leave your brains at the state border line, be smart and be careful on your journey.

Mary Cokenour

Moki Dugway Travel Guide

"Moki" is a local term for the ancient Puebloan people who inhabited the Colorado Plateau hundreds of years ago. "Dugway" is a term used to describe a roadway carved from a hillside.  The Moki Dugway is a 3-mile road of switchbacks and pull-off areas, carved from the cliff face and talus slope on the edge of Cedar Mesa. This route was originally constructed for trucks hauling uranium from the Happy Jack Mine on Utah Highway 95, to connect with US Highway 163 and continue on to the Millsite in Monument Valley.  Descending the Dugway at an 11% grade, Valley of the Gods is revealed below and Monument Valley seen in the distance.

•  Location #1: The entrance is 69.1 miles southwest of Monticello. Travel 24.6 miles south on Hwy 191, through Blanding, to State Hwy 95, make a right onto 95; travel 28.4 miles to the start of UT Hwy 261-S. Make a left onto 261, travel 16.1 miles to the downward start of the Moki Dugway.

•  Location #2: The entrance is 83.8 miles south of Monticello.  Travel 50.7 miles south on Hwy 191, through Blanding and Bluff; continue south on US Hwy 163 for 16.6 miles.  Make a right turn onto UT Hwy 261, travel 16.6 miles to the upward start of the Moki Dugway.

• Travel Time: 1 hour for the entire length of Utah Highway 261.

• Difficulty: Easy, this is a maintained dirt/gravel roadway accessible by passenger car/van/4-wheel drive/mountain bikes/motorcycles/dirt bikes.

• Hiking: Caution recommended due to vehicular travelers.

• RVs/Large Trucks and Semis/Towing of Trailers NOT allowed due to overhangs, sharp turns, switchbacks and blind corners

•  Admission: Free

•  Facilities – None; nearest town is Mexican Hat (10.6 miles south) or Bluff (27.6 miles north).

• Camping – Not Allowed

•  Pets – Must remain in vehicles

Personally, we enjoy going down the Moki Dugway as both driver and passengers can get access to the views.  Coming up, passengers tend to get a view of the rock walls, while the driver is constantly looking upward at the roadway.  

Mary Cokenour 

Muley Point Travel Guide.

Muley Point is at the southern edge of Cedar Mesa; the name Muley means "hornless" in reference to cattle or deer.  Monument Valley is visible in the distance (south) while the San Juan River cuts into the canyon below.  Johns Canyon Road is accessible from Muley Point; the trail can be seen curving around a mesa to the right of the San Juan River.  This mesa is part of The Cutler; a rock unit that is spread across the U.S. states of Arizona, northwest New Mexico, southeast Utah and southwest Colorado. In Arizona and Utah, it is called the Cutler Group; however, the United States Geological Survey (USGS) name is Cutler Formation; Cedar Mesa (Utah) and Canyon de Chelly (Arizona) are part of this unit as well.  Muley Point is considered part of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, and overseen by the National Park Service.

·         Location is 79.8 miles from Monticello; travel 24.6 miles south along Hwy 191, through Blanding, to the junction of State Hwy 95.  Make a right onto 95, travel 28.4 miles to UT Hwy 261 south; make a left onto 261.  Travel 23.1 miles, a sign on the right will indicate the road to Muley Point; 3.7 miles ends at slickrock ledge area.

·         Admission: Free

·         Difficulty: Hiking – Easy, ledges are slickrock, so will be slippery w/rain & snowfall.

·         Facilities: None; pick up all necessities and gasoline before leaving Blanding.

·         Camping: Allowed; all trash and waste must be packed out.

·         Fires: Allowed, but do NOT create a fire ring, instead use a self-contained fire pan. Dead and downed wood is scarce, so bring your own wood. Cutting living trees, and other plants, for firewood is not permitted.

·         Pets: Allowed; KEEP leashes on, no longer than six feet. All pet waste must be carried out, and disposed of properly.

·         Do not build rock cairns. They can mislead other visitors and cause resource damage to build. Rely on map and compass to know your route. There are NO maintained trails.

·         Do not feed wildlife. Food and trash should be stored in a manner impervious to entry by birds and other wildlife. Pack out all trash.

·         Preserve the Soundscape: Sound carries farther than you think in canyon country. Respect other visitors by keeping your group quiet and not playing amplified music. If you must have music in the backcountry, wear headphones.

·         No Drones: The use of drone aircraft in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and every National Park Service site is illegal. Check website for more details about this law.

·         Website: https://www.nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/muley-point.htm

 We have sat on the slickrock ledges, eaten a picnic lunch, and simply enjoyed the scenery.  Try it, you might just be amazed at how easily the stress of the world melts away.

Mary Cokenour 

Hospitality is Key for a Bed and Breakfast.

Valley of the Gods Bed and Breakfast

PO Box 310307

Mexican Hat, Utah, 84531

Phone: (970) 749-1164

Website: http://www.valleyofthegodsbandb.com

 

 

 

 

Hospitality to travelers, strangers really, goes back to the beginning of recorded history; an extension of religious beliefs and culture.  A perfect example is Xenia, the concept of Greek hospitality where generosity and courtesy were reciprocated between host and guest.  A traveler could knock upon the door of any home, be greeted warmly, given food and a bed to rest upon.  Zeus, leader of the Grecian Pantheon, was also called Zeus Xenios, the protector of travelers; often disguising himself as a weary traveler he was able to see if humble hospitality was practiced or not. Rewards were bestowed to those who were pious to the concept (Theoxeny), punishments to those who refused to help a stranger, or even try to take advantage.

As humankind developed, travel went from walking, horse/oxen drawn carts, waterways, stagecoach, railway, automobile, airplane.  Inns with many rooms, stables for the horse and oxen, developed into hotels with the advent of indoor plumbing.  As families traveled on vacation and needed cheaper lodging, motels burst forth along highways.  Hotels provided meals through a restaurant of their own, or kitchen providing room service.  Diners became the roadside partners to the motels, and then the fast food industry came onto the scene. 

Having traveled through Europe, Russia, Canada and the United States, the concept of hospitality differs, not from country to country, or town to town.  Nowadays, what you get might just be dependent upon what you give, and that means money….or does it?

The Bed and Breakfast, or B & B for short, has never left, but is becoming a much desired staying place for people on vacation or traveling for business.   The owners of a B & B often live within the residence, or within a smaller building on the premises.  Cozy sized bedrooms with ultra-comfy beds, a small private bathroom; homemade breakfast is typically the only meal served.  Guests are treated more like family; rocking chairs on porches, taking in the night air and sky; sharing stories of the day’s sightseeing.

 

 

…and let me introduce you to the Valley of the Gods Bed and Breakfast.   The Route 261 entrance to Valley of the Gods is 6.5 miles once you have made the turn off Highway 163; on the way is the road to Goosenecks State Park.  Or, like we did, travel down the 3 miles of switchbacks known as the Moki Dugway, ready to explore the 17 mile trail of the Valley and its amazing formations.  About a half mile in is the B & B, stopping only to take some exterior shots, owner Claire Dorgan came out to ask us if we were reserved guests.  Explaining the travel blog, and wanting to do a write up of her business, she cheerfully exclaimed, “Well, come on in!”  We weren’t staying there, but already felt wanted and welcomed.

 

The porch is referred to as the outdoor living room, dining room and kitchen; a place to take in the beauty of the landscape, the night show of the stars, breathe deep and relax.  Inside, this home is amazing wood and stone; antiques galore; handmade quilts adorn the sink-into-glorious-sleep beds; rustic country/southwestern charm.  Breakfast is freshly prepared by Claire, unique creations keep the guests surprised and satisfied.  Her husband, Gary, proudly talks about the energy efficiency of the B & B; powered by wind and solar systems.  Looking for a little privacy, the old root cellar building has been converted into a quaint little hideaway of its own.

  
 

Lady in the Bathtub.

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
 

 
 

Valley of the Gods Bed and Breakfast is a haven in the desert; its warm arms surrounding visitors at night while the coyote howls and a tumbleweed rolls into the dark.

 

Mary Cokenour

 

Route 261's Final Adventure - Goosenecks State Park.

How you get to Goosenecks State Park is basically up to whether you did the Valley of the Gods tour which brought you out to Route 163; or if you stayed on Route 261, passed by the Valley and ended up at UT 316.  If you're on Route 163, make a right turn towards Mexican Hat, another right onto Route 261 and then the left onto UT 316; if you're on Route 261, just make that right turn.  The road is short and you'll arrive at a gravel parking lot; walk straight toward the fenced in overlook and get ready for your jaw to drop.

Over 300 million years, between upheavals in the earth, the wind, rain and the flow of the San Juan River, the Goosenecks formed; it is a drop of 1000 feet down below.  Walking along the ledge, it just keeps getting more and more amazing to view; be careful, there is no other fencing and that first step off the edge.......

The Goosenecks

If you've visited Dead Horse Point State Park, you would have seen the single Gooseneck that had been formed by the Colorado River.  Goosenecks State Park has double goosenecks and you can follow the flow of the San Juan River; in sunlight, the stone walls seem to shimmer. 

Camping is allowed in the area, but it is primitive and you'll need to bring your own supplies; the nearest town to shop in would be Mexican Hat.  There is also a trail northwest of the Park called the "Honaker Trail" named after Henry Honaker who supervised its construction.  Built in the 1890s, it was a supply route for gold prospectors, but the "gold rush" in the area didn't last very long.  The dirt trail is 2.5 miles of switchbacks taking you from the canyon rim to the San Juan River below; 4 wheel drive vehicles can make the trek, but it is more hiker friendly than vehicle friendly.




As you leave Goosenecks State Park, a formation will loom up in the distant right; this is the back end of Alhambra Rock.  As you continue onto Route 163, past Mexican Hat and towards Monument Valley, you'll get a better viewing of Alhambra Rock; there is a pull in area if you wish to take photos.

Alhambra Rock - Route 163 view

There is another amazing site as you approach the junction of routes 261 and 163; the stone walls ahead have a design woven through them. The Navajo call it "Mountain That is Coiled"; the design is used by weavers and called "Navajo Blanket".  It represents the giant bullsnake that lives inside; bad luck comes to those who trespass or do not treat the hills with proper respect.

I would be remiss by not posting this photo of my hubby, Roy; as you can see, the Goosenecks are an excellent background for photos; plus I love showing off my hubby.

While the information about Goosenecks State Park is short, it is a sweet place to visit.  There are picnic tables, so think about bringing a meal and gaze out at this wondrous geologic marvel.

Mary Cokenour

Part Two of Route 261 Utah - The Moki Dugway

During research on the Moki Dugway, I found many people writing about how this is a "terrible road to drive upon", "very dangerous", "too scary"; I had to sit and ponder over where they were talking about.  We've been on the Moki Dugway and it was one of the most awesome treks we've taken on a mountain road in a long time.  I would rather drive up and down the Moki than go on any rollercoaster ride in the United States; yearly statistics state it's safer also than an amusement ride.  With the Moki, the drive is exhilarating; the scenery below (Valley of the Gods) and in the distance (Monument Valley and Cedar Mesa) are divine; windows open to fresh, clean air, yelling "Wheeeeeeee" as we made the turns and headed further downwards; getting to the bottom and saying, "That was fun!!!  Lets do it again!!!!"

The Moki Dugway

So, let me give you a warning, disclaimer, whatever you want to call it right now about the Moki Dugway; and if you are still too afraid to drive it after I do the entire write up and post my photos...*sigh*...I'm sorry, but I have no respect for you (this excludes people with a phobia of heights of course, that's a whole other issue).

Warning, Disclaimer, Whatever...
The Moki Dugway is one of the most exciting drives I've ever been on; I'm more afraid of rollercoasters than this road.  Contrary to what is stated in some descriptions, the road is wide enough for vehicles to comfortably pass each other; we drove an SUV and were able to pass by on coming SUVs with at least 4 feet distance between the sides of each vehicle...no moving close to cliff edges or mountain walls.  Yes, there are hairpin turns, but anyone with common sense should take these slowly whether on an unpaved dirt road, such as the Moki; or on a paved highway such as Route 550 going through the Rocky Mountains.  The signs with specified speed limits are there for safety, not as suggestions.  There are many pull in points for viewing the Valley of the Gods below and taking photos.  This is NOT a scary nor a dangerous road unless the driver is being reckless from the beginning; is driving in unsafe weather conditions; is driving a vehicle specified to be unsafe for this type of roadway.

Now lets go have a stupendously grand time going down the Moki Duyway!



The Moki (or Mokee, Moqui) Dugway is located on Utah Route 261 just north of Mexican Hat and begins just past the road to Muley Point. It was constructed in 1958 by Texas Zinc, a mining company, to transport uranium ore from the "Happy Jack" mine in Fry Canyon (which is now a ghost town) to the processing mill in Mexican Hat. This is a well graded gravel and dirt, well maintained, switchback road that is carved into the face of the cliff edge of Cedar Mesa; descent is at an 11 % grade, 1200 feet (3 mile drop) from the top of Cedar Mesa (6425 feet above sea level) to the floor of the Valley of the Gods. The State of Utah highly recommends that only vehicles less than 28 feet in length and 10,000 pounds in weight attempt to negotiate this steep, sometimes narrow and winding road.

Why the different spellings?  "Mokee" is derived from the Spanish "Moqui" meaning "small people" which referred to the Native American cultures (Navajo, Zuni, Hopi) living in the area.  Now the word "Moki" , meaning "dead", is from the Hopi, one of the cultures the Spanish encountered.  This term was more associated to the ancient ruins of a long gone culture that the Spanish found and is attributed to the Anasazi (meaning "enemy ancestors" in Navajo).  Again, why the different names that are on many of the signs?  Well, that is attributed to the white settlers that moved into the area; seems they just couldn't make up their mind which spelling to use, so they use them interchangeably.



At first the Dugway looks formidable, especially when your first viewing of it is of open air and a steep cliff; take it slow and there is a pull in point not far.  Now those reckless people I mentioned in my little warning above; our first encounter was seeing a car move out of the pull in point and begin a backward ascent towards us.  A good blast of the horn indicated to the driver that this was definitely a bad idea, so they put their vehicle into drive and began forward again.




Sit back, relax and enjoy the drive; the views are wondrous!  The day we were there, cloud cover indicated there may or may not be a storm later on  (it came in the evening); the roadway was dry and easily drivable.  So while the view of the Valley of the Gods was misty; it gave it a mysterious air that seemed to fit it so well.

Mist Covered Valley of the Gods

 Now besides the views, we found a couple of formations in the hillside that resembled the heads of animals.  This is what they looked like to us, and we named them as we saw them; Turtle Head and Gorilla Head.

Turtle Head

Gorilla Head

The Gorilla Head formation was just before a pull in point where the classic Moki Dugway photo can be taken; not only do you get a view of almost the entire roadway, but of Cedar Mesa as it continues westward.

Cedar Mesa

As you move on from this point, the Turtle Head formation will be a little way along the road.  We were able to pull over to the side and vehicles coming both ways were able to pass us without any difficulty.  From this point on, the road will begin a steeper descent downward, and Valley of the Gods will be more open before you.  I took the photo of this section of the road while we were still further up, so you can see how it descends.

As you can see from the photos, the roadway is flattened and is not that difficult to maneuver as long as you go slowly around the hairpin turns.  A classic quote from the movie "Dune" is, "Fear is the mind killer"; if you allow fear to take over your adventurous spirit, then why go anywhere at all?

Carpe Diem!  Seize the Day!

Mary Cokenour