Pair of Ears to an Upside Down Sombrero.

One of the most popular routes to travel in San Juan County is Route 261.  It can easily be accessed from State Highway 95, and you'll be on it for various reasons.  There are all the ruin sites at Butler Wash and Mule Canyon, Comb Ridge, Natural Bridges National Monument.  The one that everyone wants to see nowadays is Bears Ears which has been getting a lot of hoopla for the past few years.

Have to admit, at first I was for the proposed National Monument; I wanted to see more businesses develop, more housing, employment opportunities for all.  However, I sort of went against it due to those, who didn't even live in San Juan County, trying to establish rules and regulations for the local residents.  All the verbal fighting, busing in of protestors for and against, and they didn't even know what it was they were protesting about.

What really put a sour taste in my mouth is, being an informational guide, being challenged on my opinion of the National Monument.  At that point I developed the "I don't care" stance.  Asked whether I was for or against, my response was "I don't care", and stopped the conversation right then and there!  Having polite discussion is one thing; attacking someone immediately on their opinion, before it's even stated, and the attacker doesn't even know why they're doing it...yeah, not polite at all.

So, if you're needing to see the Bears Ears themselves, here is how to find them.  Once on SH 95, keep on driving west until you see the sign that says, "Natural Bridges/Bears Ears", make a right onto the roadway.  It splits, left will take you to Natural Bridges; keep on going straight and up the side of the mesa you will go.  Yes, left hand is paved.  No, up the mesa way is unpaved; and if it's wet, especially after heavy rain and/or snow, chances are you will get stuck.  This way will take you up to the Ears themselves, drive through them, and into the Manti-Lasal National Forest you will go.  Now, do they look like ears when you're this close to them, nope, nada, nyet, nein; just two buttes with no similarity in shape.

Now back to where I first started this write up, Route 261.  Once you see the sign for it, make a left hand turn, and this roadway is paved until you reach the junction for Muley Point or the Moki Dugway.  But wait, don't keep driving all the way yet!  Once you're on 261, go about 3 miles, pull over, stop the vehicle and get out; be careful of any other vehicles on the road.  Now look back from where you came from, yes, I need to add this, look towards SH 95.  Now you will see and understand why the Bears Ears are called the Bears Ears; imagination is a plus.

The Bears Ears, looking northward from Route 261.

 No imagination?  Outlined in photo, do you see it now?

The Bears Ears, outlined ears, eyes and nose of the bear.

In the book, Utah's Canyon Country Place Names, Vol. 1, by Steve Allen, page 43 has references to the origins of the Bears Ears name.  Shasha'a is Navajo and dates back to around 1620; Kwiya-gat Nügavat is Ute (no date listed), and in the 1700s, the Spanish explorers called them Las Orejas del Oso.  While all mean, in some form, Bears Ears, there was no story listed behind the name; let's presume then it's due to the ears and face seen from Route 261.

Back in the vehicle, start driving again; you'll be going through the Grand Gluch/Cedar Mesa area which allows camping and hiking.  Stop at the BLM office in Monticello to get information and permits, or at the Kane Gulch Ranger Station located on Route 261 itself.

Eventually you'll see, on the right, a sign for Muley Point; 3.4 mile gravel, yes gravel, road (7.4 miles round trip) which ends at slickrock ledges overlooking the walls of the Goosenecks, a trail into Johns Canyon, and a view of Monument Valley in the distance.

Once you're back to 261, head on down the Moki Dugway and have a most awesome ride down the side of the Cedar Mesa.

My hubby, Roy, doing some videography work of the Moki Dugway.

Just taking a break, watching hubby do his video thing.  Many times I have been asked to be an actual tour guide, but wherever I was working at the time wouldn't let me...liability insurance thing.  I may not be with you in person, but I know my travel guide will get you to where you want to go.

 (Disclaimer needed:  Yes, I own this travel guide.  No agency, business or any other person owns it.)

Enough boring stuff.  We always enjoy riding down the Moki, as both of us can see the views of the Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley.  Riding upward is kind of lame, well for us, as the passenger is usually staring at the red rock walls, while the driver is too busy looking upwards at the road.  Hey, but at least we tried both ways to see which we enjoyed most; so please do that as well.

Once down, you can take the 17 mile, one way, dirt/gravel (no, it's not paved) road through the Valley of the Gods, or continue onto pavement to Goosenecks State Park. 

Valley of the Gods

Once off 261, you'll be on Hwy. 163; left will take you up to Bluff, right will take you past Mexican Hat Rock, into the tiny town of Mexican Hat, across the San Juan River and towards Monument Valley.

By the way, I'm often asked the best time of day to be in a certain place.  Answer is, anytime!  Sunrise, morning, midday, sunset, even during the night when the stars are shining brightly (hopefully you're camping or outside somewhere to enjoy them).  Alright, darkness of night might not be the best time for sightseeing, but what I'm trying to get clear is, "Don't limit yourself!"

Here is Mexican Hat Rock at sunset and it's so intense!

The Great Serpent

Toad Stools along a ridge.

Continuing on towards Monument Valley, you'll pass by Alhambra Rock.  

Alhambra Rock

Oh, and now let's get calm here; yes, Monument Valley is an exciting, scenic place.  Yes, it was featured in the movie Forrest Gump, but you're on a major thoroughfare going through, it's a highway!  Pull over in designated parking areas, there is a ton of them all along the highway.  Don't stand, or lay down, in the center of the highway....this makes you a speed bump!  The speed limit is between 55 to 65 miles/hour; you are a traffic hazard if you suddenly stop and jump out of your vehicle to take photos.  

*sigh*  I can only give a warning, but can't make anyone heed it, if they wish not to.  Please don't leave your brains at the state border line, be smart and be careful on your journey.

Mary Cokenour

Travel Guide to Mexican Hat Rock.

Mexican Hat Rock was so named due to the resemblance to an upside down Mexican sombrero hat.  Walls along the San Juan River have a design woven through them with varying colors of reds and purples.  The Navajo call it "Mountain That is Coiled"; the design is used by weavers and called "Navajo Blanket".  It represents the giant bullsnake or “Great Serpent” that lives inside; bad luck comes to those who trespass or do not treat the hills with proper respect.

•          Location is 69.3 miles from Monticello; travel 50.7 miles along Hwy 191 until it changes to Hwy 163 west of Bluff; travel for 18 miles and there is either a road side pull-in to view Mexican Hat Rock, or make the left turn onto a maintained dirt road, it is 6/10ths of a mile to the base of the formation.

•          From the base of Mexican Hat, follow the dirt road around to the right and it will continue down to the San Juan River.

•          The formation is accessible year round.

Mary Cokenour

Monument Valley's Moving Shadows.

One of many annoying questions I get about San Juan County is, "What time of day is best for a perfect picture of....?" No matter what time of day a park, historical site, canyons, valleys, yada, yada, yada, is visited is a perfect time of day...period. If you need a "perfect" photo, then be a professional, go online and do your research. 'Nuff said.

This September, we were in Monument Valley, three times, visiting with our school teacher friend, Amy.  On two occasions, the main purpose was to photograph the shadow of the West Mitten upon the East Mitten which only occurs on the Spring and Fall Solstices.  Our timing of the Fall Solstice sucked big time as no one could agree on exactly what day it fell on for 2015.  I always knew it to be on September 21st, but this year is was "moved" to September 23rd; how do you move a Solstice?  Anyway, due to our work schedules, we went when possible, and missed the actual day itself down in Monument Valley; but we were close!

So, did we miss out on the "perfect" photo?  NO!  You see, the perfect photo is to the eye of the beholder.  Perhaps many folks believe my photography is horrible; while others go completely gaga over it. 

September 6th; heading down to Monument Valley to have dinner with Amy and see her new apartment she just moved into.  We try and stop at the Mexican Hat formation when the weather is different; the background of the Great Serpent changes colors.  When we finally left to return home, the sun was beginning to set; I was able to catch the wonderful colors of the sky (pink, blue, yellow, orange and purple) over Monument Valley.

Mexican Hat on a Sunny Afternoon.

Monument Valley at Sunset.

September 13th - Amy called us and said, "Get down here, I've been told the movement of the shadow is today?"; and down we went to the Valley once again.  At the MV Visitors Center, there is the spectacular, classic view of the two Mittens and Merrick Butte.  I also noticed that the 17 mile loop road through the Valley had been totally repaired; still all dirt, but now fully graded and ruts filled in.  RVs, motorcycles, passenger cars and 4 wheel drive vehicles could maneuver the road without problems. 

Alas, the shadow movement of the West Mitten onto the East was not to be.  We waited in anticipation, only to see the entire Valley go into shadow.  We were meeting our friend, Cody, at Goulding's Stagecoach Dining Room to enjoy a delicious meal of Navajo specialties.

Elephant and Camel Buttes

Elephant and Camel Buttes



Mary and Amy

Mitchell Butte

The Mittens and Merrick Butte

Monument Valley Panorama



The Mittens and Merrick Butte



The Mittens through, what the children call, the "Butt Crack".




















September 19th - We return, hoping beyond hope, that we will get the much sort after shot of the Mitten Shadow.  We were at the Visitors Center at 5:00pm to browse the gift shop, but at 5:30pm we made sure to get a spot along the wall outside.  As the time progressed, more and more visitors began setting up camera equipment; the balcony at The View restaurant was packed.  I managed to take photos at 4 to 5 minute intervals to document the entire travel of the West Mitten's shadow as it crept towards the East Mitten.

At 6:31, the shadow was almost completely onto the East Mitten when suddenly the entire Valley became shadowed.  There were many shouts of, "Where did it go!?!", "What happened!?!, "What the...!?!"; not just from Amy, Roy and myself, but most of the people who were photographing the event.  Looking westward, we could just make out the very top of the sun as it peeked from behind a mesa; within 15 minutes it was gone and darkness had fallen over Monument Valley. 

Well, there is always the Spring Solstice to look forward to; and, of course, our delicious dinners at Goulding's Stagecoach Dining Room.

Mexican Hat, a Sunny Late Afternoon.

Monument Valley around 5pm.



Castle Butte

Castle Butte



Elephant Butte

Merrick Butte



Monument Valley Panorama

The Classic Shot - The Mittens and Merrick Butte



The Story of how Monument Valley was Named.



My husband, Roy.

.










..and now the show, "The Creeping of the Shadow".

As the sun begins its descent into the Western sky, the West Mitten will begin casting a shadow that will slowly creep towards, and onto, the East Mitten.

West Mitten

East Mitten

6:01pm

 

 

 

6:31pm

 

Suddenly, as we waited for the shadow to center itself, it disappeared, and Monument Valley was in full shadow.

...and the moon began to shine brightly in the night sky.

It was an incredible experience watching the shadow creep upon the Valley floor; the sky changing colors from blue to pink and purple; then suddenly night.

So, when's the best time to take a perfect photo in Monument Valley...anytime!

Mary Cokenour