Pair of Ears to an Upside Down Sombrero.

One of the most popular routes to travel in San Juan County is Route 261.  It can easily be accessed from State Highway 95, and you'll be on it for various reasons.  There are all the ruin sites at Butler Wash and Mule Canyon, Comb Ridge, Natural Bridges National Monument.  The one that everyone wants to see nowadays is Bears Ears which has been getting a lot of hoopla for the past few years.

Have to admit, at first I was for the proposed National Monument; I wanted to see more businesses develop, more housing, employment opportunities for all.  However, I sort of went against it due to those, who didn't even live in San Juan County, trying to establish rules and regulations for the local residents.  All the verbal fighting, busing in of protestors for and against, and they didn't even know what it was they were protesting about.

What really put a sour taste in my mouth is, being an informational guide, being challenged on my opinion of the National Monument.  At that point I developed the "I don't care" stance.  Asked whether I was for or against, my response was "I don't care", and stopped the conversation right then and there!  Having polite discussion is one thing; attacking someone immediately on their opinion, before it's even stated, and the attacker doesn't even know why they're doing it...yeah, not polite at all.

So, if you're needing to see the Bears Ears themselves, here is how to find them.  Once on SH 95, keep on driving west until you see the sign that says, "Natural Bridges/Bears Ears", make a right onto the roadway.  It splits, left will take you to Natural Bridges; keep on going straight and up the side of the mesa you will go.  Yes, left hand is paved.  No, up the mesa way is unpaved; and if it's wet, especially after heavy rain and/or snow, chances are you will get stuck.  This way will take you up to the Ears themselves, drive through them, and into the Manti-Lasal National Forest you will go.  Now, do they look like ears when you're this close to them, nope, nada, nyet, nein; just two buttes with no similarity in shape.

Now back to where I first started this write up, Route 261.  Once you see the sign for it, make a left hand turn, and this roadway is paved until you reach the junction for Muley Point or the Moki Dugway.  But wait, don't keep driving all the way yet!  Once you're on 261, go about 3 miles, pull over, stop the vehicle and get out; be careful of any other vehicles on the road.  Now look back from where you came from, yes, I need to add this, look towards SH 95.  Now you will see and understand why the Bears Ears are called the Bears Ears; imagination is a plus.

The Bears Ears, looking northward from Route 261.

 No imagination?  Outlined in photo, do you see it now?

The Bears Ears, outlined ears, eyes and nose of the bear.

In the book, Utah's Canyon Country Place Names, Vol. 1, by Steve Allen, page 43 has references to the origins of the Bears Ears name.  Shasha'a is Navajo and dates back to around 1620; Kwiya-gat Nügavat is Ute (no date listed), and in the 1700s, the Spanish explorers called them Las Orejas del Oso.  While all mean, in some form, Bears Ears, there was no story listed behind the name; let's presume then it's due to the ears and face seen from Route 261.

Back in the vehicle, start driving again; you'll be going through the Grand Gluch/Cedar Mesa area which allows camping and hiking.  Stop at the BLM office in Monticello to get information and permits, or at the Kane Gulch Ranger Station located on Route 261 itself.

Eventually you'll see, on the right, a sign for Muley Point; 3.4 mile gravel, yes gravel, road (7.4 miles round trip) which ends at slickrock ledges overlooking the walls of the Goosenecks, a trail into Johns Canyon, and a view of Monument Valley in the distance.

Once you're back to 261, head on down the Moki Dugway and have a most awesome ride down the side of the Cedar Mesa.

My hubby, Roy, doing some videography work of the Moki Dugway.

Just taking a break, watching hubby do his video thing.  Many times I have been asked to be an actual tour guide, but wherever I was working at the time wouldn't let me...liability insurance thing.  I may not be with you in person, but I know my travel guide will get you to where you want to go.

 (Disclaimer needed:  Yes, I own this travel guide.  No agency, business or any other person owns it.)

Enough boring stuff.  We always enjoy riding down the Moki, as both of us can see the views of the Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley.  Riding upward is kind of lame, well for us, as the passenger is usually staring at the red rock walls, while the driver is too busy looking upwards at the road.  Hey, but at least we tried both ways to see which we enjoyed most; so please do that as well.

Once down, you can take the 17 mile, one way, dirt/gravel (no, it's not paved) road through the Valley of the Gods, or continue onto pavement to Goosenecks State Park. 

Valley of the Gods

Once off 261, you'll be on Hwy. 163; left will take you up to Bluff, right will take you past Mexican Hat Rock, into the tiny town of Mexican Hat, across the San Juan River and towards Monument Valley.

By the way, I'm often asked the best time of day to be in a certain place.  Answer is, anytime!  Sunrise, morning, midday, sunset, even during the night when the stars are shining brightly (hopefully you're camping or outside somewhere to enjoy them).  Alright, darkness of night might not be the best time for sightseeing, but what I'm trying to get clear is, "Don't limit yourself!"

Here is Mexican Hat Rock at sunset and it's so intense!

The Great Serpent

Toad Stools along a ridge.

Continuing on towards Monument Valley, you'll pass by Alhambra Rock.  

Alhambra Rock

Oh, and now let's get calm here; yes, Monument Valley is an exciting, scenic place.  Yes, it was featured in the movie Forrest Gump, but you're on a major thoroughfare going through, it's a highway!  Pull over in designated parking areas, there is a ton of them all along the highway.  Don't stand, or lay down, in the center of the highway....this makes you a speed bump!  The speed limit is between 55 to 65 miles/hour; you are a traffic hazard if you suddenly stop and jump out of your vehicle to take photos.  

*sigh*  I can only give a warning, but can't make anyone heed it, if they wish not to.  Please don't leave your brains at the state border line, be smart and be careful on your journey.

Mary Cokenour

Moki Dugway Travel Guide

"Moki" is a local term for the ancient Puebloan people who inhabited the Colorado Plateau hundreds of years ago. "Dugway" is a term used to describe a roadway carved from a hillside.  The Moki Dugway is a 3-mile road of switchbacks and pull-off areas, carved from the cliff face and talus slope on the edge of Cedar Mesa. This route was originally constructed for trucks hauling uranium from the Happy Jack Mine on Utah Highway 95, to connect with US Highway 163 and continue on to the Millsite in Monument Valley.  Descending the Dugway at an 11% grade, Valley of the Gods is revealed below and Monument Valley seen in the distance.

•  Location #1: The entrance is 69.1 miles southwest of Monticello. Travel 24.6 miles south on Hwy 191, through Blanding, to State Hwy 95, make a right onto 95; travel 28.4 miles to the start of UT Hwy 261-S. Make a left onto 261, travel 16.1 miles to the downward start of the Moki Dugway.

•  Location #2: The entrance is 83.8 miles south of Monticello.  Travel 50.7 miles south on Hwy 191, through Blanding and Bluff; continue south on US Hwy 163 for 16.6 miles.  Make a right turn onto UT Hwy 261, travel 16.6 miles to the upward start of the Moki Dugway.

• Travel Time: 1 hour for the entire length of Utah Highway 261.

• Difficulty: Easy, this is a maintained dirt/gravel roadway accessible by passenger car/van/4-wheel drive/mountain bikes/motorcycles/dirt bikes.

• Hiking: Caution recommended due to vehicular travelers.

• RVs/Large Trucks and Semis/Towing of Trailers NOT allowed due to overhangs, sharp turns, switchbacks and blind corners

•  Admission: Free

•  Facilities – None; nearest town is Mexican Hat (10.6 miles south) or Bluff (27.6 miles north).

• Camping – Not Allowed

•  Pets – Must remain in vehicles

Personally, we enjoy going down the Moki Dugway as both driver and passengers can get access to the views.  Coming up, passengers tend to get a view of the rock walls, while the driver is constantly looking upward at the roadway.  

Mary Cokenour 

Hospitality is Key for a Bed and Breakfast.

Valley of the Gods Bed and Breakfast

PO Box 310307

Mexican Hat, Utah, 84531

Phone: (970) 749-1164

Website: http://www.valleyofthegodsbandb.com

 

 

 

 

Hospitality to travelers, strangers really, goes back to the beginning of recorded history; an extension of religious beliefs and culture.  A perfect example is Xenia, the concept of Greek hospitality where generosity and courtesy were reciprocated between host and guest.  A traveler could knock upon the door of any home, be greeted warmly, given food and a bed to rest upon.  Zeus, leader of the Grecian Pantheon, was also called Zeus Xenios, the protector of travelers; often disguising himself as a weary traveler he was able to see if humble hospitality was practiced or not. Rewards were bestowed to those who were pious to the concept (Theoxeny), punishments to those who refused to help a stranger, or even try to take advantage.

As humankind developed, travel went from walking, horse/oxen drawn carts, waterways, stagecoach, railway, automobile, airplane.  Inns with many rooms, stables for the horse and oxen, developed into hotels with the advent of indoor plumbing.  As families traveled on vacation and needed cheaper lodging, motels burst forth along highways.  Hotels provided meals through a restaurant of their own, or kitchen providing room service.  Diners became the roadside partners to the motels, and then the fast food industry came onto the scene. 

Having traveled through Europe, Russia, Canada and the United States, the concept of hospitality differs, not from country to country, or town to town.  Nowadays, what you get might just be dependent upon what you give, and that means money….or does it?

The Bed and Breakfast, or B & B for short, has never left, but is becoming a much desired staying place for people on vacation or traveling for business.   The owners of a B & B often live within the residence, or within a smaller building on the premises.  Cozy sized bedrooms with ultra-comfy beds, a small private bathroom; homemade breakfast is typically the only meal served.  Guests are treated more like family; rocking chairs on porches, taking in the night air and sky; sharing stories of the day’s sightseeing.

 

 

…and let me introduce you to the Valley of the Gods Bed and Breakfast.   The Route 261 entrance to Valley of the Gods is 6.5 miles once you have made the turn off Highway 163; on the way is the road to Goosenecks State Park.  Or, like we did, travel down the 3 miles of switchbacks known as the Moki Dugway, ready to explore the 17 mile trail of the Valley and its amazing formations.  About a half mile in is the B & B, stopping only to take some exterior shots, owner Claire Dorgan came out to ask us if we were reserved guests.  Explaining the travel blog, and wanting to do a write up of her business, she cheerfully exclaimed, “Well, come on in!”  We weren’t staying there, but already felt wanted and welcomed.

 

The porch is referred to as the outdoor living room, dining room and kitchen; a place to take in the beauty of the landscape, the night show of the stars, breathe deep and relax.  Inside, this home is amazing wood and stone; antiques galore; handmade quilts adorn the sink-into-glorious-sleep beds; rustic country/southwestern charm.  Breakfast is freshly prepared by Claire, unique creations keep the guests surprised and satisfied.  Her husband, Gary, proudly talks about the energy efficiency of the B & B; powered by wind and solar systems.  Looking for a little privacy, the old root cellar building has been converted into a quaint little hideaway of its own.

  
 

Lady in the Bathtub.

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
 

 
 

Valley of the Gods Bed and Breakfast is a haven in the desert; its warm arms surrounding visitors at night while the coyote howls and a tumbleweed rolls into the dark.

 

Mary Cokenour

 

Winter in the Desert.

Surprise!!! Winter does come to the desert regions of the Southwestern United States; sometimes the snow stays for days on end; sometimes it disappears within hours. As I stated in my post, "Welcome to the Desert", she is an unpredictable mistress, and demands respect!

On January 3rd, we took a drive between Monticello and Monument Valley along Routes 191 and 163; not only was there snow, but the clouds had descended and created mystical wintery landscapes.

Traveling south on Route 191, the Abajo Mountains were a maze of sunbeams and shadows.  Normally, sitting under the watchful eyes of the mountains, Monticello gets hit with more snow than the areas to the south.  Not this time though, and from Blanding to Bluff, we traveled through dense cloud cover.

As we drove closer to Comb Ridge (this is where Route 191 veers off and Route 163 takes over), the cloud cover eased a bit, but the snow certainly didn't.

Surprisingly, when we reached the Mexican Hat area, there was not as much snow evident and the cloud cover has dissipated.  The San Juan River was not fully iced over, but you could see small pieces of ice flowing along.

Valley of the Gods was magical; the formations seeming to float amongst the clouds.  Usually Monument Valley can be seen as soon as you cross over the San Juan River bridge, but not today; familiar landmarks had simply disappeared!




"The Birthday Cake"...with frosting.



Rooster Butte, Setting Hen Butte



Rooster Butte

Seven Sailors

Monument Valley, where had it gone? Formations slipped in and out of view; Sleeping Bear being watched over by Setting Hen; suddenly it was swallowed up by clouds. We spent several hours at a friend's home and watched the sun make short appearances, each time the clouds allowing the grand formations to show more and more of themselves. By three in the afternoon, the classic forms of the two Mittens and Merrick Butte were once again standing proud.



Bear and Rabbit; there is an arch inside Bear.

Since it gets dark by 5:30pm now, we left Monument Valley at 3; however, the Moki Dugway called to us and we took the trip upwards.  The more shadier areas had some snow and ice, but nothing to worry over as we drove very slowly.  Now I have to tell you that going down is still more fun and exciting, to us, than going upwards.  The passenger gets a great view of sandstone walls, but cannot see pass the driver's head and body.  The driver is so busy paying attention to the winding road, who has time to look at the landscape!?!  We did pull into the parking area that allows you to photograph almost the entire Moki Dugway, Cedar Mesa and the valley below.  Now while the Moki Dugway is still firmly packed down dirt and the road to Muley Point is gravel; Route 261 is now fully paved (used to be only partially paved).



Route 261 goes through the Grand Gluch/Cedar Mesa area and connects with Route 95 where you can go to Natural Bridges National Monument, or to Blanding (Route 191).  We were headed home, so we headed towards Route 191 and north to Monticello; we had come full circle.  The Bears Ears came into view way before we reached 95; we still could not see the similarity to an actual bear's ears though.  Using A LOT of imagination, I could see the eyes and snout laid out in the landscaping below the formations, but in no way did the formations themselves look like ears.

Driving down 95, our beautiful pink sky mixing with the blue; the moon smiling down on the planet, wishing us all a good night and sleep tight.   How much more serene can it get!?!

Pass through northern section of Comb Ridge



Mule Deer Herd

So, this is our typical winter down here in the southeastern corner of Utah. Might not be your cup of tea, but it is what it is; the desert won't change to accommodate anyone but herself.

Mary Cokenour