Monument Valley At Any Time.

Monument Valley , for the majority of residents, and visitors to the area, is an awe inspiring destination; one of those "must experience" places.  It's span is over two states: Arizona and Utah; in Utah, it is part of the largest county in the state, San Juan.

During the spring and fall equinox, the shadow of one Mitten forms atop the second Mitten.  It's a big deal and hundreds flock to the Valley to witness the event.  Yes, even Roy and I have done it; along with a couple of friends, and it's really like a party atmosphere.  Then we ride over to Goulding's Lodge, and the Stagecoach Dining Room, for a great meal.

The photos I'll be sharing were taken during the day and at sunset; sunny sky to cloudy.  One photo of Eagle Rock-Eagle Mesa even has the hint of a rainbow after a short rain storm.  While many of the monuments can be seen from Hwy. 163, I do advise to not be cheap.  Either go into the Tribal Park itself and find a tour guide; or go to Goulding's Lodge and sign up for one of their 3 hour, or all day, tours.  This way you will see monuments up close and personal that are not seen from the highway, ruins, rock art, and the way the Navajo people live in this area.

Sort of funny story time:  I was working at the local visitor center and a woman from Belgium came in.  She had visited Monument Valley and was quite disappointed.  Why, you wonder?  She had seen the Johnny Depp movie, The Lone Ranger, which had much of it filmed within Monument Valley.  Here she was, on vacation, and nowhere could she see, "Where the Indians really lived".  She complained that there were "real houses" down in the Valley, "Where were the teepees!?!"  The people wore clothing like any other person, "Why weren't they in real Indian clothes; the men wearing loin cloths!?!"

I explained that the film was geared towards the late 19th century (1880s) to early 20th century.  The Native Americans were just like anyone else...people.  They lived in houses like anyone else; wore clothing like anyone else; they were like...anyone else.  Unfortunately this didn't make her any happier as now she felt that she had watched a movie that, sort of, lied to her about the southwest.  So there you have it folks, the USA, or parts of it, is perceived dependent on the film created by Hollywood.

When you go to Monument Valley, visit the museum at the Tribal Park's visitor center to get a true history lesson.  Better yet, go on one of the tours led by residents of Monument Valley; get an up close and personal history lesson about the Navajo culture.

Oh, speaking of films, I am including a film that I took as we traveled to and through the Valley.  Originally it was 13 minutes long, but hubby, who owns Desert Stone Studio , was able to cut it down to a more manageable length of time for viewing pleasure.  Basically you'll get a gist of what you'll be seeing as you make the drive along Highway 163.

Enjoy the journey!

Mary Cokenour

Monument Valley Photographs

Eagle Rock - Eagle Mesa, rainbow after rain storm

Eagle Rock - Eagle Mesa

The Mittens and Merrick Butte - As Sunset Progresses Over a 10 Minute Span

Sentinel Mesa and Big Indian Butte

 View from Goulding's Lodge

Agathla Peak - Arizona side of Monument Valley, along Hwy. 163

Video - Monument Valley Via Hwy. 163

https://youtu.be/VYOTFlM7W2A

Recapture Pocket, or San Juan County's Hoodoo Park, Travel Guide.

Recapture Pocket is an area of badlands near Bluff, Utah; like Goblin Valley, it is a sand filled landscape with hoodoos of all shapes and sizes.

·        Location is 54.1 miles from Monticello; travel 45.9 miles along Hwy 191 to the junction of Hwy 162 in Bluff (Cow Canyon Trading Post on SE corner).  Start at the Trading Post to be able to get to the 4.9 mile mark, not at the sign that says “Mile 0”.  The road to make a left on has 2 names when looking at an area map (CR 2401 and CR 217), there will be a yellow “cow sign” with a “cattle crossing” sign underneath it, make the immediate left.  If a 2^nd cow and cattle crossing sign are passed, you have gone too far.  After the initial left turn, there will be a split 9/10ths of a mile in, take the left hand split and go 4/10ths of a mile.  Make a right turn onto CR 249 (Bluff Bench); another split will be reached at 7/10ths of a mile, go left again.  Hoodoos (unusual sandstone formations) will be seen, but it will be 1.3 miles before Recapture Pocket itself is reached.

·         Admission: Free

·         Difficulty: Hiking – Easy; Vehicle: This area is completely desert terrain; 4-wheel drive vehicles will need high clearance due to deep dips on sandy trails and some travel over rocky ground.

·         Camping: Yes; pack out what is packed in.

·         Facilities: None; nearest town (Bluff) is 8.2 miles.

·         Pets: Allowed, owners are expected to clean up after pet (s).

·         Caution: Flash flooding will occur over roads during long and/or torrential rainstorms; once water recedes, sandy trails will be extremely muddy.

Mary Cokenour

Valley of the Gods Travel Guide.

Valley of the Gods is often referred to as a “miniature version of Monument Valley”, this area has a collection of formations, arches & ruin sites

•          Location is 68.1 miles from Monticello; travel 50.7 miles along Hwy 191 until it changes to Hwy 163 west of Bluff, travel for 12.4 miles and make a right onto Valley of the Gods Rd (there will be an indication sign), travel 1.3 miles and turn left to continue.

•          The road through Valley of the Gods is a 17 mile graded gravel & clay road; accessible to any type of passenger vehicle; it is best for car travel only during dry conditions. 

•          Open year round.  Estimated time to visit: 2-4 hours.

•          Admission: Free

•          Camping: several camp sites along route, free, first come/first serve, NO campfires allowed.

•          The Valley of the Gods Bed & Breakfast is located near the Route 261 access/exit.

•          Pets - must be leashed at all times, owners are expected to pick up after their pet(s).

•          Website: https://www.blm.gov/office/monticello-field-office  BLM – Monticello Field Office is located at 365 North Main (Hwy 191), Monticello

•          Phone: (435) 587-1500

Mary Cokenour

Pair of Ears to an Upside Down Sombrero.

One of the most popular routes to travel in San Juan County is Route 261.  It can easily be accessed from State Highway 95, and you'll be on it for various reasons.  There are all the ruin sites at Butler Wash and Mule Canyon, Comb Ridge, Natural Bridges National Monument.  The one that everyone wants to see nowadays is Bears Ears which has been getting a lot of hoopla for the past few years.

Have to admit, at first I was for the proposed National Monument; I wanted to see more businesses develop, more housing, employment opportunities for all.  However, I sort of went against it due to those, who didn't even live in San Juan County, trying to establish rules and regulations for the local residents.  All the verbal fighting, busing in of protestors for and against, and they didn't even know what it was they were protesting about.

What really put a sour taste in my mouth is, being an informational guide, being challenged on my opinion of the National Monument.  At that point I developed the "I don't care" stance.  Asked whether I was for or against, my response was "I don't care", and stopped the conversation right then and there!  Having polite discussion is one thing; attacking someone immediately on their opinion, before it's even stated, and the attacker doesn't even know why they're doing it...yeah, not polite at all.

So, if you're needing to see the Bears Ears themselves, here is how to find them.  Once on SH 95, keep on driving west until you see the sign that says, "Natural Bridges/Bears Ears", make a right onto the roadway.  It splits, left will take you to Natural Bridges; keep on going straight and up the side of the mesa you will go.  Yes, left hand is paved.  No, up the mesa way is unpaved; and if it's wet, especially after heavy rain and/or snow, chances are you will get stuck.  This way will take you up to the Ears themselves, drive through them, and into the Manti-Lasal National Forest you will go.  Now, do they look like ears when you're this close to them, nope, nada, nyet, nein; just two buttes with no similarity in shape.

Now back to where I first started this write up, Route 261.  Once you see the sign for it, make a left hand turn, and this roadway is paved until you reach the junction for Muley Point or the Moki Dugway.  But wait, don't keep driving all the way yet!  Once you're on 261, go about 3 miles, pull over, stop the vehicle and get out; be careful of any other vehicles on the road.  Now look back from where you came from, yes, I need to add this, look towards SH 95.  Now you will see and understand why the Bears Ears are called the Bears Ears; imagination is a plus.

The Bears Ears, looking northward from Route 261.

 No imagination?  Outlined in photo, do you see it now?

The Bears Ears, outlined ears, eyes and nose of the bear.

In the book, Utah's Canyon Country Place Names, Vol. 1, by Steve Allen, page 43 has references to the origins of the Bears Ears name.  Shasha'a is Navajo and dates back to around 1620; Kwiya-gat Nügavat is Ute (no date listed), and in the 1700s, the Spanish explorers called them Las Orejas del Oso.  While all mean, in some form, Bears Ears, there was no story listed behind the name; let's presume then it's due to the ears and face seen from Route 261.

Back in the vehicle, start driving again; you'll be going through the Grand Gluch/Cedar Mesa area which allows camping and hiking.  Stop at the BLM office in Monticello to get information and permits, or at the Kane Gulch Ranger Station located on Route 261 itself.

Eventually you'll see, on the right, a sign for Muley Point; 3.4 mile gravel, yes gravel, road (7.4 miles round trip) which ends at slickrock ledges overlooking the walls of the Goosenecks, a trail into Johns Canyon, and a view of Monument Valley in the distance.

Once you're back to 261, head on down the Moki Dugway and have a most awesome ride down the side of the Cedar Mesa.

My hubby, Roy, doing some videography work of the Moki Dugway.

Just taking a break, watching hubby do his video thing.  Many times I have been asked to be an actual tour guide, but wherever I was working at the time wouldn't let me...liability insurance thing.  I may not be with you in person, but I know my travel guide will get you to where you want to go.

 (Disclaimer needed:  Yes, I own this travel guide.  No agency, business or any other person owns it.)

Enough boring stuff.  We always enjoy riding down the Moki, as both of us can see the views of the Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley.  Riding upward is kind of lame, well for us, as the passenger is usually staring at the red rock walls, while the driver is too busy looking upwards at the road.  Hey, but at least we tried both ways to see which we enjoyed most; so please do that as well.

Once down, you can take the 17 mile, one way, dirt/gravel (no, it's not paved) road through the Valley of the Gods, or continue onto pavement to Goosenecks State Park. 

Valley of the Gods

Once off 261, you'll be on Hwy. 163; left will take you up to Bluff, right will take you past Mexican Hat Rock, into the tiny town of Mexican Hat, across the San Juan River and towards Monument Valley.

By the way, I'm often asked the best time of day to be in a certain place.  Answer is, anytime!  Sunrise, morning, midday, sunset, even during the night when the stars are shining brightly (hopefully you're camping or outside somewhere to enjoy them).  Alright, darkness of night might not be the best time for sightseeing, but what I'm trying to get clear is, "Don't limit yourself!"

Here is Mexican Hat Rock at sunset and it's so intense!

The Great Serpent

Toad Stools along a ridge.

Continuing on towards Monument Valley, you'll pass by Alhambra Rock.  

Alhambra Rock

Oh, and now let's get calm here; yes, Monument Valley is an exciting, scenic place.  Yes, it was featured in the movie Forrest Gump, but you're on a major thoroughfare going through, it's a highway!  Pull over in designated parking areas, there is a ton of them all along the highway.  Don't stand, or lay down, in the center of the highway....this makes you a speed bump!  The speed limit is between 55 to 65 miles/hour; you are a traffic hazard if you suddenly stop and jump out of your vehicle to take photos.  

*sigh*  I can only give a warning, but can't make anyone heed it, if they wish not to.  Please don't leave your brains at the state border line, be smart and be careful on your journey.

Mary Cokenour

Moki Dugway Travel Guide

"Moki" is a local term for the ancient Puebloan people who inhabited the Colorado Plateau hundreds of years ago. "Dugway" is a term used to describe a roadway carved from a hillside.  The Moki Dugway is a 3-mile road of switchbacks and pull-off areas, carved from the cliff face and talus slope on the edge of Cedar Mesa. This route was originally constructed for trucks hauling uranium from the Happy Jack Mine on Utah Highway 95, to connect with US Highway 163 and continue on to the Millsite in Monument Valley.  Descending the Dugway at an 11% grade, Valley of the Gods is revealed below and Monument Valley seen in the distance.

•  Location #1: The entrance is 69.1 miles southwest of Monticello. Travel 24.6 miles south on Hwy 191, through Blanding, to State Hwy 95, make a right onto 95; travel 28.4 miles to the start of UT Hwy 261-S. Make a left onto 261, travel 16.1 miles to the downward start of the Moki Dugway.

•  Location #2: The entrance is 83.8 miles south of Monticello.  Travel 50.7 miles south on Hwy 191, through Blanding and Bluff; continue south on US Hwy 163 for 16.6 miles.  Make a right turn onto UT Hwy 261, travel 16.6 miles to the upward start of the Moki Dugway.

• Travel Time: 1 hour for the entire length of Utah Highway 261.

• Difficulty: Easy, this is a maintained dirt/gravel roadway accessible by passenger car/van/4-wheel drive/mountain bikes/motorcycles/dirt bikes.

• Hiking: Caution recommended due to vehicular travelers.

• RVs/Large Trucks and Semis/Towing of Trailers NOT allowed due to overhangs, sharp turns, switchbacks and blind corners

•  Admission: Free

•  Facilities – None; nearest town is Mexican Hat (10.6 miles south) or Bluff (27.6 miles north).

• Camping – Not Allowed

•  Pets – Must remain in vehicles

Personally, we enjoy going down the Moki Dugway as both driver and passengers can get access to the views.  Coming up, passengers tend to get a view of the rock walls, while the driver is constantly looking upward at the roadway.  

Mary Cokenour 

Muley Point Travel Guide.

Muley Point is at the southern edge of Cedar Mesa; the name Muley means "hornless" in reference to cattle or deer.  Monument Valley is visible in the distance (south) while the San Juan River cuts into the canyon below.  Johns Canyon Road is accessible from Muley Point; the trail can be seen curving around a mesa to the right of the San Juan River.  This mesa is part of The Cutler; a rock unit that is spread across the U.S. states of Arizona, northwest New Mexico, southeast Utah and southwest Colorado. In Arizona and Utah, it is called the Cutler Group; however, the United States Geological Survey (USGS) name is Cutler Formation; Cedar Mesa (Utah) and Canyon de Chelly (Arizona) are part of this unit as well.  Muley Point is considered part of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, and overseen by the National Park Service.

·         Location is 79.8 miles from Monticello; travel 24.6 miles south along Hwy 191, through Blanding, to the junction of State Hwy 95.  Make a right onto 95, travel 28.4 miles to UT Hwy 261 south; make a left onto 261.  Travel 23.1 miles, a sign on the right will indicate the road to Muley Point; 3.7 miles ends at slickrock ledge area.

·         Admission: Free

·         Difficulty: Hiking – Easy, ledges are slickrock, so will be slippery w/rain & snowfall.

·         Facilities: None; pick up all necessities and gasoline before leaving Blanding.

·         Camping: Allowed; all trash and waste must be packed out.

·         Fires: Allowed, but do NOT create a fire ring, instead use a self-contained fire pan. Dead and downed wood is scarce, so bring your own wood. Cutting living trees, and other plants, for firewood is not permitted.

·         Pets: Allowed; KEEP leashes on, no longer than six feet. All pet waste must be carried out, and disposed of properly.

·         Do not build rock cairns. They can mislead other visitors and cause resource damage to build. Rely on map and compass to know your route. There are NO maintained trails.

·         Do not feed wildlife. Food and trash should be stored in a manner impervious to entry by birds and other wildlife. Pack out all trash.

·         Preserve the Soundscape: Sound carries farther than you think in canyon country. Respect other visitors by keeping your group quiet and not playing amplified music. If you must have music in the backcountry, wear headphones.

·         No Drones: The use of drone aircraft in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and every National Park Service site is illegal. Check website for more details about this law.

·         Website: https://www.nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/muley-point.htm

 We have sat on the slickrock ledges, eaten a picnic lunch, and simply enjoyed the scenery.  Try it, you might just be amazed at how easily the stress of the world melts away.

Mary Cokenour 

Travel Guide to Mexican Hat Rock.

Mexican Hat Rock was so named due to the resemblance to an upside down Mexican sombrero hat.  Walls along the San Juan River have a design woven through them with varying colors of reds and purples.  The Navajo call it "Mountain That is Coiled"; the design is used by weavers and called "Navajo Blanket".  It represents the giant bullsnake or “Great Serpent” that lives inside; bad luck comes to those who trespass or do not treat the hills with proper respect.

•          Location is 69.3 miles from Monticello; travel 50.7 miles along Hwy 191 until it changes to Hwy 163 west of Bluff; travel for 18 miles and there is either a road side pull-in to view Mexican Hat Rock, or make the left turn onto a maintained dirt road, it is 6/10ths of a mile to the base of the formation.

•          From the base of Mexican Hat, follow the dirt road around to the right and it will continue down to the San Juan River.

•          The formation is accessible year round.

Mary Cokenour

In Search of Sand Island's Mammoths - Part Two

It is almost a year since I wrote about the mammoth carvings at Sand Island In Search of Sand Island's Mammoths - Part One .  2018 was not a very good year for either Roy or myself; illness, financial hardship; issues with people who, in general, were simply reliving high school as the "mean clique".  2019 was dubbed the "Year of Fresh Starts", and it certainly has been for the most part.  Recently we both were given fresh starts with employment, and now have time for each other, and important aspects of our lives that kept getting pushed aside.  Basically, we are back on the road to wellness; wellness in mind, body and soul.  Enough boring talk, let me get onto telling you about Sand Island's Mammoths.

It was one week, after our first attempt at mammoth hunting, that we returned to Sand Island , determined to find the other mammoth.  This time we had a copy of a photograph which showed the carvings and other rock art colored in.  It would help us go back to the first mammoth which was more visible, and follow the rock art along the wall to the second mammoth. The pock marks simply look like weathering over time; the colored in photo shows how the marks were interpreted.  Easier said than done as this wall is very pock marked, so even with a zoom lens, finding the figures was still difficult.

Many of my photos are repeats from Part One, just taken in a different light; it was a cloudy day this time.  People often think that going adventuring is determined by the weather.  No, it is determined by how much one wants to do the adventure.  As you read through this travel blog, you will notice that Roy and I have visited places on sunny days; in snow, rain, cloud cover as well.  However, we are smart enough to know the dangers certain weather conditions can bring, so we won't be in areas of possible flash flooding, and no mud fests for us!

The trail to the carvings, and other rock art, is at the last camp site, along the same rock wall as the ranger station.  Yes, people might be in that camp site; just be polite, say hello, and keep walking to the log posts that indicate the start of the trail.  Now don't go wandering through someone's camp site to get there.  Park at the ranger station, walk along the trail for vehicles, and you'll see those log posts at the end of it.





You will have to walk downward just a few feet, but then the trail evens out, and it is an easy walk for a half mile where it meets the San Juan River.

The rock art show begins almost immediately, and there will be other interesting sites along the trail.  Keep those eyes open, cameras at the ready!

 Warning:  if you are easily offended, don't look at these humanoid figures too closely.  Their gender is definitely expressed in the drawings.

 Men on horseback, wearing hats?  The Spanish came through San Juan County, then came the Colorado and Texas ranchers, and finally the Mormon pioneers.

Unfortunately, you will come across "idiot markings".  Pristine sandstone walls, or ancient rock art itself, marred with initials, names, drawings from 20th and 21st century humans.  Why?  Well that's why I call them "idiot markings", the people who do this are, and I'm being nice here, idiots.  They seem to think that all rock art is just graffiti, so no one will care if they add to it, right?  Wrong!  Oh, and please don't give me the argument of, "Well, they didn't know better."  That's a huge load of bs right there; information is available online, on informational boards at sites, and basically every visitor center and museum in the 4 Corners region.  Ignorance is definitely no excuse! The ancient rock art/drawings are how these people communicated, left messages for others, wrote out their own history.  Modern man used paper, ink, pens; created bound books; and nowadays the written word of any language can be found digitally.  So, look, take photos, admire, but don't touch!

Human heads are NOT ancient drawings.

Back to the real art work of Sand Island...

Post holes in the wall; wooden logs would have been placed inside.  There could have been a platform to stand or rest on while the drawings were created.  There could have been some other type of structure there, using the logs for support.

Carving of a large male deer or elk.

There are carving marks on this fallen stone. 
Center left, looks like a horse

I found these next drawings to be truly interesting.  The triangle shaped humanoid is indicative of the Fremont culture, with similar drawings found in Shay Canyon, Capitol Reef and Nine Mile Canyon.














The humanoid figure with the long fingers and toes is similar to the figure found at the Wolfman Panel, found in Comb Ridge.  (Yes, I've written about these sites, just use the Search box on the upper right of any blog page and prepare to have your mind blown!)

So I mentioned there would be other aspects of Sand Island to see and admire.

Beehive Box in a tree.

Bees are pollinators, so need to be protected.

Huge Claret Cup Cactus hanging off a ledge.

At this point in time, you're wondering, "Where are the mammoths!?!"  Well, like any Travel Channel show or documentary, there is the tease at the very beginning, but you have to watch the whole telecast to get to the really good part.  Speaking of Travel Channel, I did contact them about using my travel blog, about the 4 Corners region, as a show idea.  Nah, they only use ideas from their own staff...their loss!!!

...and now the mammoths.

You will know you're in the correct area due to the wooden post fencing around this area.  First off, they don't want anyone climbing up to the rock art due to the unstable nature of the rocks and sand.  Second, they definitely don't want anyone up close and personal touching the carvings and drawings; they're already weather beaten down enough.  The acidity of the human hands will only cause further destruction, never mind the "idiot markings".

Fallen sandstone, what rock art might have been here?

Mammoth #1

Arrow indicates Mammoth #1

Mammoth #1 Outlined

Mammoth #2

Supposedly there is a bison carving overlaid on the mammoth.  After I outlined the photo, the small head looks more like a deer or elk, not a bison.  Then again, I'm no expert.

Mammoth #2 Outlines

...and there you have them, the Mammoths of Sand Island.

Whether you decid to camp at Sand Island, or just visit, enjoy the journey!

Mary Cokenour