Pair of Ears to an Upside Down Sombrero.

One of the most popular routes to travel in San Juan County is Route 261.  It can easily be accessed from State Highway 95, and you'll be on it for various reasons.  There are all the ruin sites at Butler Wash and Mule Canyon, Comb Ridge, Natural Bridges National Monument.  The one that everyone wants to see nowadays is Bears Ears which has been getting a lot of hoopla for the past few years.

Have to admit, at first I was for the proposed National Monument; I wanted to see more businesses develop, more housing, employment opportunities for all.  However, I sort of went against it due to those, who didn't even live in San Juan County, trying to establish rules and regulations for the local residents.  All the verbal fighting, busing in of protestors for and against, and they didn't even know what it was they were protesting about.

What really put a sour taste in my mouth is, being an informational guide, being challenged on my opinion of the National Monument.  At that point I developed the "I don't care" stance.  Asked whether I was for or against, my response was "I don't care", and stopped the conversation right then and there!  Having polite discussion is one thing; attacking someone immediately on their opinion, before it's even stated, and the attacker doesn't even know why they're doing it...yeah, not polite at all.

So, if you're needing to see the Bears Ears themselves, here is how to find them.  Once on SH 95, keep on driving west until you see the sign that says, "Natural Bridges/Bears Ears", make a right onto the roadway.  It splits, left will take you to Natural Bridges; keep on going straight and up the side of the mesa you will go.  Yes, left hand is paved.  No, up the mesa way is unpaved; and if it's wet, especially after heavy rain and/or snow, chances are you will get stuck.  This way will take you up to the Ears themselves, drive through them, and into the Manti-Lasal National Forest you will go.  Now, do they look like ears when you're this close to them, nope, nada, nyet, nein; just two buttes with no similarity in shape.

Now back to where I first started this write up, Route 261.  Once you see the sign for it, make a left hand turn, and this roadway is paved until you reach the junction for Muley Point or the Moki Dugway.  But wait, don't keep driving all the way yet!  Once you're on 261, go about 3 miles, pull over, stop the vehicle and get out; be careful of any other vehicles on the road.  Now look back from where you came from, yes, I need to add this, look towards SH 95.  Now you will see and understand why the Bears Ears are called the Bears Ears; imagination is a plus.

The Bears Ears, looking northward from Route 261.

 No imagination?  Outlined in photo, do you see it now?

The Bears Ears, outlined ears, eyes and nose of the bear.

In the book, Utah's Canyon Country Place Names, Vol. 1, by Steve Allen, page 43 has references to the origins of the Bears Ears name.  Shasha'a is Navajo and dates back to around 1620; Kwiya-gat Nügavat is Ute (no date listed), and in the 1700s, the Spanish explorers called them Las Orejas del Oso.  While all mean, in some form, Bears Ears, there was no story listed behind the name; let's presume then it's due to the ears and face seen from Route 261.

Back in the vehicle, start driving again; you'll be going through the Grand Gluch/Cedar Mesa area which allows camping and hiking.  Stop at the BLM office in Monticello to get information and permits, or at the Kane Gulch Ranger Station located on Route 261 itself.

Eventually you'll see, on the right, a sign for Muley Point; 3.4 mile gravel, yes gravel, road (7.4 miles round trip) which ends at slickrock ledges overlooking the walls of the Goosenecks, a trail into Johns Canyon, and a view of Monument Valley in the distance.

Once you're back to 261, head on down the Moki Dugway and have a most awesome ride down the side of the Cedar Mesa.

My hubby, Roy, doing some videography work of the Moki Dugway.

Just taking a break, watching hubby do his video thing.  Many times I have been asked to be an actual tour guide, but wherever I was working at the time wouldn't let me...liability insurance thing.  I may not be with you in person, but I know my travel guide will get you to where you want to go.

 (Disclaimer needed:  Yes, I own this travel guide.  No agency, business or any other person owns it.)

Enough boring stuff.  We always enjoy riding down the Moki, as both of us can see the views of the Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley.  Riding upward is kind of lame, well for us, as the passenger is usually staring at the red rock walls, while the driver is too busy looking upwards at the road.  Hey, but at least we tried both ways to see which we enjoyed most; so please do that as well.

Once down, you can take the 17 mile, one way, dirt/gravel (no, it's not paved) road through the Valley of the Gods, or continue onto pavement to Goosenecks State Park. 

Valley of the Gods

Once off 261, you'll be on Hwy. 163; left will take you up to Bluff, right will take you past Mexican Hat Rock, into the tiny town of Mexican Hat, across the San Juan River and towards Monument Valley.

By the way, I'm often asked the best time of day to be in a certain place.  Answer is, anytime!  Sunrise, morning, midday, sunset, even during the night when the stars are shining brightly (hopefully you're camping or outside somewhere to enjoy them).  Alright, darkness of night might not be the best time for sightseeing, but what I'm trying to get clear is, "Don't limit yourself!"

Here is Mexican Hat Rock at sunset and it's so intense!

The Great Serpent

Toad Stools along a ridge.

Continuing on towards Monument Valley, you'll pass by Alhambra Rock.  

Alhambra Rock

Oh, and now let's get calm here; yes, Monument Valley is an exciting, scenic place.  Yes, it was featured in the movie Forrest Gump, but you're on a major thoroughfare going through, it's a highway!  Pull over in designated parking areas, there is a ton of them all along the highway.  Don't stand, or lay down, in the center of the highway....this makes you a speed bump!  The speed limit is between 55 to 65 miles/hour; you are a traffic hazard if you suddenly stop and jump out of your vehicle to take photos.  

*sigh*  I can only give a warning, but can't make anyone heed it, if they wish not to.  Please don't leave your brains at the state border line, be smart and be careful on your journey.

Mary Cokenour

Muley Point Travel Guide.

Muley Point is at the southern edge of Cedar Mesa; the name Muley means "hornless" in reference to cattle or deer.  Monument Valley is visible in the distance (south) while the San Juan River cuts into the canyon below.  Johns Canyon Road is accessible from Muley Point; the trail can be seen curving around a mesa to the right of the San Juan River.  This mesa is part of The Cutler; a rock unit that is spread across the U.S. states of Arizona, northwest New Mexico, southeast Utah and southwest Colorado. In Arizona and Utah, it is called the Cutler Group; however, the United States Geological Survey (USGS) name is Cutler Formation; Cedar Mesa (Utah) and Canyon de Chelly (Arizona) are part of this unit as well.  Muley Point is considered part of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, and overseen by the National Park Service.

·         Location is 79.8 miles from Monticello; travel 24.6 miles south along Hwy 191, through Blanding, to the junction of State Hwy 95.  Make a right onto 95, travel 28.4 miles to UT Hwy 261 south; make a left onto 261.  Travel 23.1 miles, a sign on the right will indicate the road to Muley Point; 3.7 miles ends at slickrock ledge area.

·         Admission: Free

·         Difficulty: Hiking – Easy, ledges are slickrock, so will be slippery w/rain & snowfall.

·         Facilities: None; pick up all necessities and gasoline before leaving Blanding.

·         Camping: Allowed; all trash and waste must be packed out.

·         Fires: Allowed, but do NOT create a fire ring, instead use a self-contained fire pan. Dead and downed wood is scarce, so bring your own wood. Cutting living trees, and other plants, for firewood is not permitted.

·         Pets: Allowed; KEEP leashes on, no longer than six feet. All pet waste must be carried out, and disposed of properly.

·         Do not build rock cairns. They can mislead other visitors and cause resource damage to build. Rely on map and compass to know your route. There are NO maintained trails.

·         Do not feed wildlife. Food and trash should be stored in a manner impervious to entry by birds and other wildlife. Pack out all trash.

·         Preserve the Soundscape: Sound carries farther than you think in canyon country. Respect other visitors by keeping your group quiet and not playing amplified music. If you must have music in the backcountry, wear headphones.

·         No Drones: The use of drone aircraft in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and every National Park Service site is illegal. Check website for more details about this law.

·         Website: https://www.nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/muley-point.htm

 We have sat on the slickrock ledges, eaten a picnic lunch, and simply enjoyed the scenery.  Try it, you might just be amazed at how easily the stress of the world melts away.

Mary Cokenour 

Part One of Route 261 Utah - Muley Point

When many people travel south from Moab and stop at the Southeastern Utah Welcome Center in Monticello, one major question is, "How do I get to Monument Valley?" Well that all depends on how much of a rush the person is in, and do they want some further adventuring along the way there. The quickest way is to continue traveling south on Route 191 until just outside of Bluff where Route 163 begins, going past Mexican Hat and finally into Monument Valley. The second way there is via State Route 95 which is accessed on the outskirts of Blanding; this is also the road to Natural Bridges National Monument. If you're in no rush to get to Monument Valley, then this is the way I'm going to highly recommend to you; Route 95 alone is chock full of sites and Natural Bridges is an awesome place.

On Route 95, you'll see a sign indicating access to Route 261 and let me tell you, you so want to drive this! The first 23 miles is paved, there is a ranger station along the way; it then turns to a graded road (flattened dirt and rock), but any kind of vehicle can drive upon it; just don't hot rod it if you have a 2 wheel drive vehicle (in other words, a car).  Ok, I'm getting ahead of myself, so lets go back to just outside of Blanding and the turn onto Route 95 (aka Bicentennial Highway).


Along the way, you'll pass by the roadside ruins of Butler Wash and Mule Canyon; there are more ruins further within the land, but you have to hike to get to them.  The canyons, valleys and rock formations are outstanding along this stretch of roadway.  They do not lessen up as you continue traveling, if that is your goal, to Hanksville to hook up onto Route 24 going westward.  At one point you'll travel through narrow stretches of road between huge sandstone hills; there is no parking in these areas and there will be warnings of falling rock.  Stop further on to take photos, especially of the beautiful vistas that open up before you.

Whether you went to Natural Bridges and backtracked, or decided to go directly onto Route 261, there will be signs on the roadway to help you find it.  As I stated before, the first 23 miles is paved; there will be signs indicating different canyons, creeks, and the location of the ranger station.  The landscaping you might find on the boring side; mostly sagebrush, desert and low growing trees; the truly exciting parts come much later on down the road.  That is why I'm doing Route 261 in parts, it is as you come to these different sections (Muley Point, Moki Dugway, Valley of the Gods, Goosenecks State Park) that your appreciation for the area will explode! 


Again, the roadway will turn to graded dirt and rock; the landscape will stay pretty much the same and eventually you'll see a warning sign for truckers about the steep grading up ahead (in other words, the Moki Dugway is coming up).  However, you'll see another sign with an arrow pointing down a gravel lined road; this is the 5 mile road to Muley Point...you want to make this turn!!!  The road will end in an area surrounded by slickrock; depending on what type of vehicle you have, you may have to park right there, or you can maneuver over the slickrock.  You will be doing a bit of walking around, there are no guardrails, so if you have pets, leash them up tightly or leave them in the vehicle; if you have children, pay attention to them and where they are at all times.   Camping is allowed in this area; it's primitive and you are expected to take all your trash and belongings with you when you leave.

 

Welcome to Muley Point!  Even as you first step onto the slickrock, you will be stunned at what you begin to see before you. Muley Point is at the southern edge of Cedar Mesa and the name Muley means "hornless" in reference to cattle or deer.  Monument Valley is visible in the distance (south) while the San Juan River cuts into the canyon below.   If you parked your vehicle before the slickrock, you would have noticed that the road curves to the right and a sign indicating Johns Canyon.   Johns Canyon Road is accessible from Muley Point and you can see it curving around that large mesa to the right of the San Juan River.




























Monument Valley is seen in the south.

 

 



The Cutler is a rock unit that is spread across the U.S. states of Arizona, northwest New Mexico, southeast Utah and southwest Colorado. In Arizona and Utah it is called the Cutler Group; however, the United States Geological Survey (USGS) name is Cutler Formation; Cedar Mesa (Utah) and Canyon de Chelly (Arizona) are part of this unit.

The San Juan River cuts through the valley below; Johns Canyon Road winds around the mesa on the right.

Don't be in such a rush to go riding down the Moki Dugway just yet; make sure to take that 5 mile gravel road to Muley Point.  Otherwise, you'll be cheating yourself out an experience for the senses.

Mary Cokenour