Arches National Park - Devil's Garden Part One.

I've written up several posts regarding Arches National Park, and have saved the best for last - Devil's Garden. There is seven miles of trail within this one section of the park; one trail is sand and dirt, so easy for walking. The second trail is the primitive loop which takes travelers over slickrock, extremely thin ledges, climbing up and over sandstone fins and boulders, and is the most difficult of the two trails to maneuver.  This write up is about the first trail and from the over 200 photos taken in this part of Devil's Garden, it was very difficult picking out only a few to post.  Might as well get started with a map, so you can see the trails and all the arches in this area.

 

 

There are two options for getting to the Devil's Garden Trailhead; drive to the parking lot just in front of the area; or park at the Campground and walk the short desert trail (about 1 and 1/2 miles) to the parking lot area.  While Roy drove to the parking lot and waited for me, I got out at the campground area and walked the desert trail.  If you want a true appreciation of the desert, I highly recommend doing this; you get enthralled by the sight of it, the calming atmosphere, and even though I was carrying water with me, I kept forgetting to drink it...like I said, enthralled.  At the trailhead entrance I watered up, got a fresh bottle out of the cooler and into the garden of the unholy one we went. 

Skyline Arch

Oh my, I almost forgot to tell you about Skyline Arch which is located before you reach the Devil's Garden campground area.  Funny thing was, while doing my research about Devil's Garden, I saw Skyline mentioned, but didn't remember seeing it.  However, going through my photos, well what do you know, I had one of it.

Devil's Garden is a maze of sandstone fins and walls, corridors you can barely squeeze through, others that come together at a dead end. Here and there in this garden, the limbs of lifeless trees twist into bizarre forms; yet plant life sprouts up from the sand and in between boulders. After the corridors, the trail suddenly opens up and you can see the vastness of the entire area; but you'll still get a neck ache from trying to see to the tops of those fins.

Devil's Garden Trail



Pine Tree Arch
 

At the bottom of the main trail, keep an eye out for the signs that will lead to side trails; these lead to various arches along the way.  The first two arches you'll see are Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch; Pine Tree Arch is ground level, so you'll be able to stand inside it (see photo).  The Pine Tree area is very shady and cool; a breeze seems to continually blow through the arch itself.   Make sure to walk through the arch and look at the view on the other side...stunning!



Tunnel Arch
 

Tunnel Arch is aptly named, and there seems to be a smaller version of it just off to the left; think of them as two slides, one for the adult giants and the smaller for their children.





Crystal Arch

Before you decide if you should try the Primitive Loop Trail or not, continue forward a bit and you'll see an arch.  It's on the northeast side of the current trail you're on, and you'll have to do a bit of looking and juggling position to truly see it.  This is Crystal Arch, and, for whatever reason, it is not listed on the map that you receive when you enter the park.  On the map I posted, I put an indication of approximately where it will be located; basically if you don't know to look for it, you won't see it.  Now you know.

If you're brave enough, you're starting off on the primitive trail; not only weren't we brave enough the day we were there, but we were very tired from doing the Delicate Arch walk.   Just another excuse to come back again; heck, I've only been to Arches National Park twelve times, why not a baker's dozen?

The paved road into Arches is the road you'll be taking out; as you leave Devil's Garden you'll come to a point where you can look into the distance and see the Windows Area, including Balanced Rock.

 At this time, there are delays on the road in the Devil's Garden area due to construction.  I see it this way, it's very much worth the wait, and just another excuse to pack a picnic meal.  Think Positive!!!

Mary Cokenour







Salt, Fire, Penguins, Odds and Ends at Arches.

Going through my thousands of photos taken over the past seven years, I still find a photo here and there of Arches National Park and wonder, "what the heck is that?".  As I research the section of the Park I wish to write about, I usually, by accident, find a photo resembling one unknown one I have and bingo!, I've got a name.  So while my intention for this post is to focus on the Fiery Furnace and Salt Valley Overlook; I'm going to throw those odds and ends in here.

Fiery Furnace and Salt Valley Overlook are past the Delicate Arch area, and on your way to Devil's Garden.  They are the type of sites you come up on unexpectedly, hit the brakes and hope no one is tailgating behind you.  The Overlook is basically a view of Salt Valley Wash; there isn't truly much to see there in way of formations, but it is still an awesome site to look over.  There is an eight mile, unpaved and bumpy, road that leads over the Wash to Klondike Bluffs; a car will make it over, but 4 wheel drive is the better way to travel.
 

Salt Valley Overlook



Fiery Furnace View from Salt Valley Overlook
 


Now the Fiery Furnace is a truly Holy Moly! site to stop and look at.  The Furnace is two miles of narrow canyons and fins of sandstone; the marked hiking trail can take from 2.5 to 3 hours; and that is using the highly recommended tour by a park guide.  You can go it alone, so long as you purchase your permit; however reservations are required (alone and tour) and must be made online at: http://www.recreation.gov at least four days in advance. I'm warning you now that during tourist season (April through September), there could possibly be a waiting list to get a permit, or be included in one of the guided tours.  During the hottest months of summer, I recommend taking the earliest tour possible as while it is cooler in the Fiery Furnace (ironic, isn't it); the rest of Arches will be extremely hot when you finish the tour.

That takes care of Fiery Furnace and Salt Valley Overlook; now to get to those Odds and Ends I found. Lets start at the beginning, the beginning of Arches National Park that is. After you pay your entry fee, you'll be able to look upwards and see that you're being greeted by three gentlemen wearing tuxedos. Well, if they were living creatures, that is usually how they're referred to, but these are actually stone giants called "The Penguins".

















Now this next item I first saw mentioned when doing some research on the internet about the La Sal Viewpoint section of Arches. I didn't really think anything about it though, as I was concentrating on finding the best photos of the area itself. While I was organizing photos, or attempting to, I was surprised to find I actually had a photo of this minor arch...Ring Arch which is located at the base of Courthouse Towers.  It is one of those, blink and you miss it things if you're driving along; you have to stop, look and find it.








My last, " I can't believe I have this photo" is of Pothole Arch, located in Ham Rock which is part of the Windows District.  It is one of those arches that someone in your vehicle has to spot and say, "hey, is that an arch up there?"; otherwise you'll just drive by without even noticing it.  On the Arches National Park map, Ham Rock is mentioned, but not this arch; isn't that odd?  But then again, Ring Arch is not mentioned either...perhaps there are so many arches at the Park, all the names can't fit on the map?  Think of it as a treasure hunt for gigantic items; make sure to write the names down on your map as close to their location as possible.





That's it for this post about Arches; all I have left is Devil's Garden and that will most likely be a two or three part story; that section in itself is immense!  I hope you've been getting a good idea on why I've stated that you need a minimum of one day dedicated to visiting Arches, and you still might not see it all.

Mary Cokenour

Arches National Park - Windows, Caves, Elephants and a Garden

Looking northward from Anticline Overlook, visitors will see a rather interesting site; a line of sandstone featuring arches, caves and a parade of elephants. How correct they would be as this is the Cove of Caves, Windows District and Garden of Eden section of Arches National Park as seen from miles and miles away.   After visiting Balanced Rock, there is a paved road nearby leading to the right and this will take you to this mysterious place.  The background photo I use for this blog (behind the title) was taken at a pull-in area only minutes from the main road.

 



Garden of Eden
 

The Garden of Eden is a collection of sandstone spires; it's not unusual to see ropes hanging down, climbers attempting to be "on top of the world".  Two of the formations are said to resemble "Adam and Eve", hence the name given to the area.



Continuing along the paved road brings you past the "Cove of Caves", aptly named due to the cave like indentations in the sandstone walls.  Eventually the largest of these alcoves will erode into an arch; when is a good question and it all depends on the elements of wind and rain.

Cove of Caves

The best is yet to come as you reach the Windows District (North and South Windows), Turret Arch, Double Arch and the Parade of Elephants.  Not only is there so much to gaze and wonder upon, but you can hike up and around the North Window via a primitive path.  The primitive path is over the sandy desert to the far sandstone wall; there is necessary climbing over boulders; the view is amazing and the coolest wind blows through.  It's a pleasant place to sit upon one of the larger rocks, enjoy the view and breeze, before continuing the hike to North Window where you can walk through it to the paved pathway leading back to the parking area.  The North and South Windows are also referred to as "The Spectacles" with the wall between them as the "Nose Bridge".



North and South Windows


 

Parade of Elephants
 

From the parking area by Windows, you can see "The Parade of Elephants" where Elephant Arch makes the opening between the "legs" of one of the stone creatures as they march in formation.



Parade of Elephants and Double Arch
 



Double Arch
 

Then there is another famously photographed arch, "Double Arch" which technically are not arches at all.  They are actually a perforated sandstone fin and a giant pothole that finally lost its bottom; but who cares, they're beautiful.  This arch has also been referred to as "Double O Arch".










While you are photographing and gazing at the various arches; don't be surprised if one of the locals flies in to tell you stories from its own perspective.  The Raven is very talkative and informative; it will fly away when it's finished wearing down your ears as fast as it flew in.  This tour guide is unpaid, and doesn't mind showing you around.




That takes care of this section of Arches National Park; do NOT miss out on it. 

Mary Cokenour

Arches National Park - The La Sal Viewpoint and the Beginning of Grand Vistas.

Now while you can walk the Park Avenue Trail, see the backside of Courthouse Towers and come out in the general area of the Towers, I prefer getting back in the car and doing the drive to the La Sal Mountains Viewpoint. Walking out onto the slickrock to the informational display, be careful of not tripping over your own feet; you'll be so busy looking at the view to care about footing. As you slowly begin to turn to see towards the direction of the Courthouse Towers, you'll notice a small formation in the desert.  It is not named on the display, but this sandstone covered in red mud resembles a castle; well that is what my imagination pictures it as.

 

 

Now for those of you who love Harrison Ford and the "Indiana Jones" movies, you should recognize this grand vista of the Courthouse Towers area; how it leads the eye down into a valley of giants.  In the opening of the third movie, "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade", a young Indy is attempting to elude the bad guys through a valley of reddish sandstone towers.  That's correct, it was filmed in Arches National Park in the Courthouse Towers area.

 

 

 

How about I introduce you to some of these silent and stoic stars of Arches?  To the left is Courthouse Towers and standing nearby are The Three Gossips; you know there always has to be someone whispering about the trials going on at the courthouse.

   Downwind from the Gossips is Sheep Rock.

 

 

Looking to the right side of the valley view, The Tower of Babel stands next to The Organ.  There is a parking area nearby; get out and walk around and you'll come to the realization that next to these ancient sandstone giants, you are a puny nothing.  They have existed for centuries, and will continue to exist for centuries more after you become as simple dust.









 

Now that you have been humbled, or maybe not; anyway, time to do a little traveling along the paved roadway.  You'll be passing by the Petrified Dunes and in the distance will see Balanced Rock and the rock lineage of The Garden of Eden and the Windows.   After visiting Balanced Rock, take the roadway around it and this will lead to the Garden, Windows and the Cove of Caves. If you continue straight on the road though, you'll find another secondary road leading to Delicate Arch. Choices, choices, and what you see and do all depends on how much time you want to devote to discovery.

 

 

 

Mary Cokenour 

Arches National Park - Walking the Park Avenue Trail.

Nine miles north of Moab is the entrance to Arches National Park; traveling to the entrance booth is easy travel on a flat road, but entering the park itself is a whole other story.  After you visit or pass by the Visitors Center, you then begin your journey upward into the park itself.  No shoulder to pull off on, no guard rails; you just go higher and higher until you can stop at a small pull in point to look south over Moab, or further north on Route 191   Coming back down to exit will be just as fun as you practically hug the reddish walls of sandstone; no shoulder and no pull in points either.  The main road throughout Arches is paved, so don't be worried about a bumpy ride; just enjoy the sites and worry about your head spinning off your neck from trying to see them all at one time.

Park Avenue
 

The first major stop you're going to want to make is Park Avenue; it's a one mile trail behind Courthouse Towers.  There is an opening at the parking area there too, so you have a couple of hiking options: park at either parking area (Park Avenue or Courthouse Towers), walk the trail and have someone meet you at the other area with the vehicle, or just walk the one mile one way and back again.  It is a beautiful walk over sand and smooth stone; you'll be highly tempted to keep going off the trail to explore this and that.  Make sure to wear a hat, sunscreen, have plenty of water and watch out for mountain lions.  Yes, I said mountain lions; you're on their home turf.  There is a sign at the top of the stone stairs leading down to the canyon floor which will tell you the same information I just wrote.

The walls of Park Avenue are stunning; no photo can truly do them justice, you just have to experience it all up close and personal.   The right hand photo is of me walking the trail; my husband was at the top of the stone steps and not using a zoom setting on the camera.  The exhilaration and adrenaline rush I get from these hikes are indescribable.










Here's another example of why you need a whole day to devote to Arches National Park, and you still won't experience it all.  This walk over the Park Avenue canyon floor will get you so pumped up with excitement, you'll want to do it again!  Then again, getting back into your vehicle at the Park Avenue lot means you get to see what's waiting around the corner.

Mary Cokenour