Lost from Bluff to Cortez; Sort of.

When Roy and I go traveling around the Four Corners area, we don't always have a destination in mind. Basically we point the vehicle in a direction, make sure we have maps, water, snacks and a full tank of gas; then go. We have found some interesting sites; we have found places that have made us both say, "What the heck!?!; and found many places not mentioned in guide books or on maps, you just have to know they're there. So starts this adventure from Bluff, Utah to Cortez, Colorado; mainly because we just wanted to know where a road went and what we could see on it. I'm going to post a map where I've noted some names, road number changes, or pertinent information to the "wanting a beer with their meal" traveler. With the lack of, or vague, road signs on many of these roads, you're going to appreciate this.



Navajo Twins adjacent to Twin Rocks Cafe
 

We headed south on Route 191 through Blanding and White Mesa until we reached the rustic and scenic Bluff.  Bluff was settled in 1880 and was basically the last stop on the route taken by the "Hole in the Rock" Mormon pioneers.  The San Juan River runs along there allowing trees and vegetation to grow; ruins and petroglyphs hidden throughout the area; amazing sandstone formations like the "Navajo Twins" (adjacent the Twin Rocks Cafe), and "The Locomotive" (overlooking the cementary).  Pioneers from the Bluff area headed up north and settled Monticello (Abajo Mountain area) in 1888; Blanding (desert area), however, was not settled until 1905.  Blanding has the Dinosaur Museum and "Edge of the Cedars" Museum; Route 95 at the edge of town (south) leads to Natural Bridges National Monument.  It is sort of like the contrary child, since the sale of any alcoholic beverage is banned within city limits; not so for Bluff or Monticello.  I'm mentioning this for any traveler in the area who enjoys such a beverage with a meal; look to the other towns for that pleasure.

The Locomotive


 

Since we didn't start this trek until after lunch, we decided to backtrack north to a road indicating "Hovenweep" was in an easterly direction; a map indicated this was Route 262.  It is a paved road, but not well maintained, so you might find it a bit rough and bumpy in spots.  I know the map above says it is a dirt road, but its been fixed up since that map was printed way back who knows when. 




Along the way you'll see many formations in the rocky areas, if they had a specific name there were no signs indicating any.  You'll also be driving parallel to Native American Reservation land and the San Juan River can be spied now and then.  There will be two road junctions you'll come across, one to Montezuma Creek, the other to Aneth which are both situated along Route 162.  We stayed on Route 262 to see how far it actually went, and what else we could see on it.

At the end of Route 262, a road to the left leads towards Hovenweep and the Hatch Trading Post; well somehow we missed the sign and stayed on the road leading to the right.  We later found out this was Road G which would eventually bring us out onto Route 491 (S. Broadway) just north of the airport in Cortez, Colorado.  By the way, you'll see snow on the mountains; we took this ride in early spring and it was still cold up there, but not in the desert areas.  So off to Road G we go...


Now this is really a scenic, pleasant drive; the road is twisty here and there, so don't plan on driving too fast on it.  Once in awhile we would spot an abandoned building and wondered if it dated back to the early pioneers or not.  I finally had the opportunity to stop and take a photo of long horned cattle; a thrill since I'd only seen them on television.  I would have liked to not have the barbed wire in the shot, but those horns intimidated me enough to keep my distance.

Long Horned Cattle

Along the road we did pass a "Welcome to Colorful Colorado" sign, but seeing Sleeping Ute Mountain was also a rather large hint that we were finally over the state border and in Colorado. 

Snow Covered Sleeping Ute Mountain
 

What we didn't expect was to see a roughly made parking lot, large sandstone formations and a sign stating that this was "Canyons of the Ancients" National Monument; yep, you guessed it, not written on our map.  By this time though it was nearing sunset, since daylight savings time had not sprung into spring as yet.  As much as we wanted to explore, doing it in the darkness was not on our to-do list.

Sand Canyon Trail Entrance
 

 

As we got nearer to Cortez, we saw the snow covered mountain range of Mesa Verde (park entrance is 9 miles east of Cortez).  We immediately recognized Route 491, made the left turn towards the main area of Cortez and treated ourselves to a celebration dinner.  Celebration?  That's right, we celebrated the end of another adventure in the Four Corners area; you're not living if you're not having an adventure here.

Mary Cokenour

Camping Amongst Moonflower Canyon's Ancient Petroglyphs.

Datura (Moonflower)

In yesterday's write up on Kane Creek Blvd., I teased you with a few tidbits about Moonflower Canyon. This small box canyon is found about three miles up the road, and is appropriately named for the extensive growth of Datura (aka Moonflower, Jimsonweed, Angel's Trumpet) in the area. It is a sacred plant to the Native Americans and was used in ceremonies, mainly for the hallucinogenic properties which were needed for "vision quests".

Now I spoke with one of my Native American friends who told me that it is definitely not used anymore due to its also very toxic properties which can seriously injure brain and bodily functions, or cause death.  I'm going to get all the warnings about Datura done with now, but the gist of it is; don't eat it or you're taking your life into your own hands.  Datura is a part of the nightshade family containing naturally occurring tropane alkaloids.  These plants are essentially for landscaping, not culinary, use.  If ingested, get to the hospital immediately for treatment; it will take 24 - 36 hours for the plant to get out of the system with, hopefully, no side effects or damage.  Consider yourself thoroughly forewarned; now lets get back to Moonflower Canyon itself.

 

 

It is a completely beautiful environment with the Colorado River just across the roadway.  There are eight campsites available and this area is considered a "primitive" area with no water or electricity.  Moab is only three miles away if you need civilization, or supplies; there is a toilet facility and garbage bins, so no excuses on why you cannot keep your campsite clean.  As you explore, you will find a creek running through towards the far back of the Canyon; during rainfall, a large pothole fills with water, and sometimes a waterfall will form off the back wall.  It is a very quiet and peaceful area and your only visitors might be one of the local birds or lizards. 

The Canyon is surrounded by sandstone walls and many a cave has developed due to erosion; or perhaps helped to form by ancient hands.  I've seen folks camp in or nearby the caves; but like any campsite keep it clean, and most especially do NOT damage the sandstone walls.  You were there, but now you're gone; please don't carve your name to carry on.

 

 

Which brings me to one of the major reasons Moonflower Canyon has become a large tourist attraction, the Petroglyphs.  The petroglyphs date back about 2000 years during the Archaic Era to the Preclassic Era; basically when pottery making, loom weaving, stone grinding and drilling were in full swing.  Unfortunately these petroglyphs were seriously vandalized throughout the years, and the fencing around them doesn't keep all the "idiots" out.  Next to the "rock art" is a large split in the wall with remains of a wooden ladder inside.  It was theorized that the ancient Native Americans used this to climb up higher on the wall to carve their "writings". 

Moonflower Canyon is one of those places that, yes, you can see ancient Native American history; but it is a place that you can camp for the night, or bring a picnic meal and visit for the day.  It is one of those places that is tranquil, bringing rest to the body, mind and soul.  Enjoy the soothing.

Mary Cokenour

Moab's Kane Creek; Boulevard or Road?

One of the first places my husband took me, when we visited in 2006, was to Moonflower Canyon (which I'll write about in another post) via Kane Creek...well it's a boulevard or a road or both.  My confusion is mainly based upon looking at too many maps, and too many varied descriptions, from the internet and personal guide books.  Looking at the Moab street map in the phone book; the name is Kane Creek Boulevard (Blvd.), but most people refer to it as "Road" because, well, it's a road, not a boulevard.  Confused, welcome to my world.  So enough about the semantics of road naming, and lets get to why you want to travel this roadway if you visit Moab, Utah.

Kane Creek Blvd. (paved) parallels the Colorado River and Potash Road (Route 279) for about 7.5 miles; it then turns into a dirt road which you can follow to Kane Creek Canyon; and eventually to the junction that will lead to Hurrah Pass.  When the road turns to dirt, begins to curve to the left and there is a large parking lot in front of you, you've reached the beginning to Kane Creek Canyon.  By the way, some folks refer to this as Kane Springs Canyon, but I'm sticking to simple Kane Creek...same road name, same canyon area.  Let me tell you that researching and comparing all this information gave me one whopper of a headache!




Canyonlands by Night and Day Jet Boat Tour
 

Guess you need to know how to find the origin of the road; off Route 191 in Moab, turn onto the road between McDonald's and Burger King; this is Kane Creek Blvd.  Follow the road as it curves along until you see it begin to split (do NOT make the right turn onto 500 West), keep following the road as it goes straight and then curves left.  You only have to drive about a  mile before you'll want to stop and take in the scenery behind you; the Colorado River and the Red Rocks stretching as far as you can see.  Canyonlands by Night and Day does jet boat tours down this end of the river during the day; so you might want to check that out if you want a fun river cruise.


Moonflower Canyon is only three miles down the road, but I've already expressed this post is for another day.  If you are in the area though, before I get it written up; you must stop and visit there as it's absolutely gorgeous.  There are camping sites throughout, petroglyphs and even an old Native American ladder in a split in the wall near the petroglyphs.  There's your tease...

Every once in a while take a look across the river at Potash Road; never know what you'll suddenly spy like "Little Arch" which is at the edge of Poison Spider Mesa.

Little Arch


 

There are several homes along Kane Creek Blvd and what I mean by homes is converted, colorful school buses reminiscent of the "hippie" era.  There is also a Pueblo home built into the sandstone, but it's unfinished and unoccupied.  Every now and then you'll see a dirt road, the first leads to the "Moab Rim" trail which eventually loops back to Route 191; there's also a road to Hunter Canyon.  Stay off the roads marked "no trespassing" and/or "private property"; make sure you have 4 wheel drive if attempting these dirt roads; especially when they have creeks intersecting them. 


Another pictuesque scene on the road is an old tree that has formed its own natural "arch" over the road; combined with the beautiful drive along the Colorado River makes it very serene.

















When you finally travel along Potash Road (Route 279), take a look across the river towards Kane Creek Blvd; outstanding!

Now this final photo has me stumped as to its name, if it truly has one as I'm not completely sure.  I thought I saw it listed on someone's climbing blog, but of course, when I need to find it, I cannot.  If anyone has a clue to the name of the formation to the left, please let me know, so I can write a caption on the bottom of the photo.  Thanks!  Basically I am posting it here as it simply looks interesting.

So there you have it; the short, but scenic drive down Kane Creek Blvd. until you reach the entrance to Kane Creek Canyon.  There are several campgrounds along the road, but fees are charged, so be ready for that when looking to spend the night, or several nights, outdoors.  This is not an overly long drive, so make room in your schedule to enjoy it.

Mary Cokenour

Welcome to the Desert.

The Desert

The desert is a deceitful mistress, who entrances with her charms.
Unwarily smitten, she can down you with one heatful blow.
Her minions, scorpion and rattlesnake, cling to her swells.
Willing to sting and bite any unguarded lover.

The desert is a barren mother, who yet gives life to many.
Her skin is dry and dusty, water a distant memory.
Flowery roots grow shallow in her grave.
Yet sagebrush clings as a predator’s claws.

The desert is warm, drawing out the stress.

The desert is cold, drawing you down to your death.
The desert is balance, she does not judge.
You live, you die at her behest.

 

Mary Cokenour
Written: March 11, 2012; Published in the "Desert Voice" 2012 issue.


In the spring, the temperatures begin to steadily climb; so imagine my thoughts when I am asked by a visitor to the area, "Why is it so hot here!?!?"  Now my answer depends on if they caught me off guard, so I might stammer, "Wh...aat?"  This gives the person the chance to truly think about the question before they ask again; or they just might truly ask it outright again; so my answer is now, "Ummm...it's the desert." while giving them a confused look.  If I'm paying attention when the question is asked, I now have the choice of being a smart ass, "Oh crap, the oven is on and I left its door open!", and run away pretending distress.  Or the factual, "Well this is summertime, and this is the desert", and how they process that answer is up to them; and believe me, having folks say "Oh" and walk away with a confused look makes me almost fall down laughing.

When Roy first asked me to visit Utah, I went online and did some research: where were we going?, what was the locale and weather like?, what kind of clothing did we need?, and other basic questions for my basic survival. Yes, I said survival; this was an adventure, and any adventurer plans survival tactics.  When we decided to finally move to the area, well his being born and raised out here gave him somewhat of an advantage on the knowledge front; but I had to learn and experience it before making a conscious effort to embrace it. 

Number One Rule you must know about the area...THIS IS THE DESERT!!!   The average temperature for the year is in the 70s (F), but can reach the 100s (F) during the warmer months; the 40s (F) during the colder months; and into the 30s (F) at night at any time throughout the year.  Rainfall is sparse and unpredictable; it dries up quickly; humidity is slim to none; rivers are a major source of water and fed from mountains with a high snowfall during the winter months...no snow means low water supply which equals drought.  Our area is currently experiencing this; July is monsoon season, so hopefully it will bring the relief we need.  Carrying bottles of water with you is essential when hiking out in the desert; wear white or light colored clothing and hats; bring a jacket or sweatshirt along if you're going to be out at night; always make sure to fill up your gas tank and have an extra five gallon jug stashed in the trunk.  Tell someone where you'll be; if something happens and you can't get a cellphone signal, they'll know where to look for you.  Maps and a compass are definite benefits!

So you're now asking, "Why in the world would anyone want to live out here!?!?" and that's a good question, but I can only give you answers from my, and my husband's, perspective.  To us, it is a wonderland of ecosystems working together; it is plants and animals the likes of I've only seen in museums, zoos or botanical gardens; it is healing magick of red rocks and sand; it is a blue sky so rich in color, it makes you want to cry with joy.  My hubby admitted that he wasn't sure if I would be able to live out here or not, being a "big city East coaster, but he sure knows better.  He now says that he would not be surprised if I had been one of the first pioneers out here; I've acclimated so well, it's like I have always lived in the Southwest.  My health has improved immensely where I could hardly walk two blocks without panting; to now walking two miles and wanting to keep going another two more.  Perhaps it's a past life coming through loud and strong; perhaps it's just a change I needed to live a better life; whatever it it, it feels like home.

Moab Sand Pile
 

Alright, enough sentimental stuff, lets get to some fun things.  In Moab, right on Route 191 and near the entrance to Arches National Park is a large sandpile to play with.  Not talking normal sandbox pile, I'm talking an entire side of a hill that can you can climb, run down, slide down; just have some old fashioned, big time fun on.






Big S Rock
 

Want something firmer under your feet?  Climb the petrified sand dune you'll see along the road to the Needles Overlook in the Canyon Rims Recreation Area.  I've seen this sand dune described as "Big 'S' Rock" due to the "S"s formed from the wind erosion.





Now when you're hiking around the desert, take a good look at the parched ground; fascinating how it looks so similar to a giant granny square quilt covering the area.  Bet you didn't know Mother Nature could quilt, did you?







Cryptobiotic Soil
 

While exploring, if you see signs saying, "Stay on designated trails", there are a couple of good reasons.  One, the agency overseeing the area doesn't want you lost and then have to go find you; Grand County Search and Rescue is the busiest agency in Utah during the summer months.  Two, you need to stay off the cryptobiotic soil (crust) which is a mass of living bacteria, fungi, lichen, algae and moss; enriching the sand and dirt with nutrients; bringing it balance, so plants can eventually grow and thrive. 

Plants grow and thrive? It's the desert, what could grow there besides sage brush and cactus?  True, cacti need very little water to live, and this area has some of the most beautiful varieties; one being the Prickly Pear.

Prickly Pear Cactus
 



Datura aka Moonflower, Jimsonweed
 

However, other flowering plants which you would think would need lots of water to thrive, do just fine living in the sand, or crevices of the red rocks.




Yellow Foxtails
 

It comes down to, when you hear desert, don't have a preconceived notice of what you're going to find. Sure it's sandy and hot, but think of it as a really, really large beach and have fun on it.

Mary Cokenour

Jugs and Mugs, but are they Arches Too?

What exactly constitutes an arch being labeled a natural arch?  After reading several geological definitions, it basically comes down to: A natural arch is an opening in a free standing wall of rock (not necessarily sandstone) which has formed due to weathering, or water erosion.   Hmmm, so if it's not a wall that had a hole punched through it by Mother Nature, then it's not an arch?  Take for example Delicate Arch and Double Arch located in Arches National Park, Moab, Utah. They were formed from Entrada sandstone "fins", well at least one section of Double Arch was, the other part was a giant pothole that lost its bottom. They don't conform to the standard scientific definition, but they are still called an arch. What is a "fin" anyway? A free standing sandstone wall in the shape of a...you guessed it...fin of a fish.  Confused, join the party...and it's going to get more rowdy.





Jughandle Arch, Moab, Utah

Jughandle (aka The Jug Handle) Arch of Moab, Utah is located on Potash Road at the opening to Long Canyon...and you'll see a pattern as you keep reading.  By the way, you can follow the Shafer Trail through Long Canyon and eventually come out onto the Shafer Basin which you can see from the Dead Horse Point Overlook.  The arch is a type of "cliff arch" in which it is not formed through a wall, but on the jutting edge of one; its long, instead of wide, formation making it look like a handle.



Shafer Trail through Long Canyon
 

Now another bit of information I could gather is that an arch is typically a solid formation; but if it looks like an arch, but has pieces missing, its...what?  How do we know it wasn't a complete arch at some time, but Mother Nature decided to take a few bites out of it?  Is it just a "pillar" with bits and pieces missing?  You'll see what I'm referring to as I continue along the "jugs and mugs" path.




Courthouse Rock
 

Still in Moab, lets go down Mill Canyon Road (4 wheel drive vehicles highly recommended) until we stop at the junction of "Mill Canyon" (on the right) which leads to the Dino-Trail and you can see "Determination Towers"; or "Halfway Stage Station", M&M Hiking Trail and Cotter Mine Road (on the left).  Follow the road to the left and head on towards Courthouse Rock, looking on the left side of this formation and what do you see, an arch!  Well, it looks like an arch, but seems to have, at the top, become separated from the main wall by a long crack.  Doesn't fit the typical definition, but....and if you hike the M&M you're entering into a canyon area, so there's that entrance to a canyon pattern again.

Two ways to get to the next mughandle/jughandle arch; continue around Courthouse Rock by following Cotter Mine Road.  You'll pass by the Sevenmile Rim trail which will give you an up close and personal introduction to "Determination Towers"; the trail is considered difficult in 4 wheel drive guide books.  A few more twists, turns and down the hillside before you get back to Route 191; near a parking area used as a starting point for ATVers; also nearby is the entrance to the road up to the Gemini Bridges, or Route 313 to Dead Horse Point and Islands in the Sky.  Anyway, as you come down the hillside and the road flattens out, quickly look behind and right to catch a glimpse of another one of those arches or pillars or whatever they're called by some geologist.   By the way, if you're coming onto Cotter Mine Road directly from Route 191, that's the beginning, and there's the arch, and so goes the pattern.   Technically it's not a hard core pattern; I'm having fun with it though, and so should you be...having fun that is.

Cotter Mine Road, off Route 191
 

One more mughandle/jughandle and this one is located in San Juan County, Utah, down the road from Newspaper Rock on Route 211.  There is sits, on the right side of the entrance to Shay Canyon; looks like an arch with a crack separating it from the main wall, just like the other ones I've written about.  There is a trail that leads into Shay Canyon if you feel like walking to the natural structure itself; it's a bit overgrown here and there, and I highly recommend bug spray or the gnats will eat you alive.


Shay Canyon



So, are all these mughandle/jughandle arches only found at the entrances to canyons? No, just the ones I've found so far, and believe me, there are many, many more to be found throughout Utah. There happens to be one at Harts Point, off the Canyon Rims main road, but you have to walk a trail to see it. I only just found out about it, so missed it when I was in the area before; but now there's  another excuse to go back.

Also, can they truly be defined as arches, or are they just pillars?   Let the geologists hash that question out; I'm just going to enjoy the discovery and views.

Mary Cokenour