The Charm of a Barn.

If a barn could speak, what secrets and stories would it reveal?  Surely it would tell of the birthing of a calf or foal; the death of a long milked cow or well ridden mare.  Amongst the hay bales the trails of rodents hunted by cats; or lovers having a roll around.  Musings of a daydreamer, perhaps, but there is something about a barn that has rustic charm and brings about wonder.

The basic definition (FreeDictionary.com) of a barn is, “A large building for sheltering livestock, storing hay or other agricultural products, or housing equipment used for operating a farm. 2. A large shed for the housing of vehicles, such as railroad cars.”  Actually there are various sites giving either less or more of a definition, but to store or shelter is the main focus of a barn’s existence.  While some think, “this is nothing more than a utility building”, for others, like the Amish and Old Order Mennonite, the barn is not just an important feature of farming, but of overall life on the farm.  A “barn raising” is a huge deal in the community; families come by horse and buggy; the men to build the structure while the women prepare the feast to be enjoyed later on, and a bit of gossiping too.  It is the “community center” for parties, dances, wedding receptions, basically all social gatherings.

 

Back in 1997, the Smithsonian Institute developed a nationwide tour, “Barn Again! Celebrating an American Icon”; visiting four rural sites in designated states, one of which was Utah; Wellsville, Heber City, Monticello (July/August 1998) and Ephraim.  The focus: who, what, where, why, where and how of an American icon…The Barn.  Featured in the Monticello site was the early 1900s built barn which became the Frontier Museum.  Originally a storage facility for the L.H. Redd Hardware/Mercantile, it was moved to its present location on Main Street (purchased by the City of Monticello) due to the tireless effort of the Monticello Foundation, headed by San Juan Record’s Bill Boyle.

 

 
 

Main Street between 200 and 300 South - given to Ginger Tracy by Joyce Martin; San Juan County Historical Commission.

 

Barn seen to the left of the Post Office.

Missy Votel of Durango’s Cross Currants wrote, “First order of business was to move the barn….back corner of lot, away from street, to front and center…put on rollers and moved approximately 60 yards.” The barn was of simple design, one entry way, one window, nothing to truly write home and brag about; but it was historic and needed to be preserved.  Temporary shingles were put on to keep out the elements; built on were an entry way and small storage room; eye pleasing features of faux barn doors and hayloft pulley were added.  Inside electricity and plumbing needed to be installed; the second floor (hayloft) could only be accessed via ladder (donations and grants needed to install an elevator, and not achieved as yet). 

 

 

 

 

Herringbone Pattern in Wood Planking

In 1998, plans by the City included a Visitors Center which was built in 2008 and is attached to the museum; 2013 saw the creation of the Big 4 Tractor Building which houses, of course, the Big 4 Tractor.  The field next to this building was, more than likely, for the Community Center proposed in 1998; however, that is now located at the Hideout Golf Course.  The field is used during Pioneer Day weekend activities for the Mud Tractor Pull; a huge attraction for locals and visitors alike.

 

 The first curator, and largest donor, to the Frontier Museum was Nell Dalton; after her death, her daughter, Ginger Tracy, became curator.  With her help, I was able to amass photographs, newspaper articles and information about the barn.  The museum is an eclectic collection representing Monticello and San Juan County’s Native Americans, the Pioneers and their descendants.  Framed black and white photographs, historical documents, memoirs; kitchen gadgets that make many a visitor state, “I remember my grandmother using that!”  The Hyland Hotel (National Register of Historic Places – July 28, 1994) is a featured exhibit, as well as Marie Ogden’s “new age cult”, The Home of Truth which has been written about by BYU Professor, Joel Campbell, and Emma Kemp, an instructor at California Institute of the Arts and Otis College BFA Fine Art of Arts. 

 
At one time, the City’s “museum” was located in the San Juan County building; artifacts stored in the cellar.  This was all transferred to the Frontier Museum once it had been established.  The second floor is closed off and contains all those artifacts not designated for display…yet.  Plans are in the works for a “rotation” system, and new donations, whether monetary or artifacts, are always welcomed!

Monticello Diorama depicting 1888 to 1911

  


Main Street Quilt created for 100th Anniversary of Monticello's Founding.

 Whether a local who walks by, or a visitor driving in for a rest stop, come on into the Frontier Museum and have a look about.  You never know what you’ll find.

Monticello Welcome Center/Frontier Museum/Big 4 Tractor Building
216 South Main Street
PO Box 182
Monticello, Utah, 84535

(435) 587-3401

Mary Cokenour

Mexican Hat - A Tale of Two Bridges.

Mexican Hat, named after the famed sombrero formation, has a history rich in oil, gold prospecting, and uranium/vanadium mining.  In 1882, this small town was first named “Goodridge”, after E.L. Goodridge who came to the area in hopes of striking it rich on gold.  Like the Beverly Hillbillies, up from the ground came a bubbling crude; oil that is.  1906 to 1910, a man named Neville built and ran a trading post north of the San Juan River; but it was Jim Hunt who took it over and built the inn.

San Juan Inn

Over the San Juan River, the bridges that have come and gone have their own colorful history.  The original suspension bridge burned down and a second was built; wooden planking held many a horse drawn wagon, motorized vehicles, two legged to four legged walkers. 



E.L. Goodridge and his Mexican Hat Bridge

Update, July 6, 2016: In the book, "Looking Back Around the Hat,  A History of Mexican Hat"
by Doris Valle, there is mention of Emery Langdon (E.L.) Goodridge rebuilding the bridge as he was founding Mexican Hat (1882-1883).  (see side photo) 
Thanks to my friend Amy for digging around archives and finding this little gem.












However, prior to Goodridge's arrival in 1882, another bridge was there; the river could rise a good 40 plus feet, so it was not unusual for a bridge to wash away, and another built to replace it.  John Wetherill (top photo), and Charles Spencer with his pack team (bottom photo) were photographed crossing the bridge over San Juan River. 

Photos Courtesy of Harvey Leake (a descendant of the Wetherills).

1909 - 1910: Sheep were the commodity crossing the bridge.

Source for Sheep Photo: "River Flowing from the Sunrise: An Environmental History of the Lower San Juan"
by James M. Aton
http://digitalcommons.usu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1127&context=usupress_pubs

During the 1940s to 1952 (around the time the San Juan Inn was built), this small, narrow suspension bridge across the San Juan River could not support large trucks. The ore, hauled from mines in Cane Valley and central Monument Valley, would be transferred to smaller trucks, transported across, and then transferred back to five-ton trucks which brought the ore to a stockpiling area about a mile north of Mexican Hat.  In 1952, construction began on an all steel and concrete “arch” bridge (completed in 1953) which would support the full weight of the larger ore hauling trucks.

Photo by Fred Blackburn; taken sometime within 1955-57 of the two bridges side by side as he traveled to Monument Valley with his family.

 

This story comes from the father of Amy Watkins Kensley, teacher at the Monument Valley Elementary School:

In 1953, the driver of a small truck hauling a bobcat tractor (as large as a D6 John Deere tractor) chose the wrong bridge to travel over.  The full weight of both vehicles caused the planking to give way about halfway across; it all fell into the San Juan River, but, surprisingly, the driver was not injured.  While being repaired, the work crew placed a wooden panel over the broken section; the bridge was closed down to all traffic.  One day, a man asked if he could ride his horse over the suspension bridge, but was told no due to safety issues.  However, the next morning, the work crew came upon the man attempting to ride his horse over the bridge anyway.  It was very apparent that the horse did not want to go (horses being smarter than humans at times); however, they both made it across safely.

In the 1970s, the suspension bridge had become obsolete and was finally dismantled which brings me to the Olde Bridge Grille (formerly Old Bridge Grill Café and renamed in 2007).  Well, not on this post; you'll have to go over to my food blog for the write up, and photos, of the food.  Click HERE

Mary Cokenour


UPDATE:  Spoke with geologist, river runner and Bluff resident, Gene Stevenson, on June 10, 2015, who was able to confirm that the old suspension bridge was not dismantled, but actually fell apart and down into the San Juan River in 1975.

Just in case anyone wants to know where I obtained my information about the Mexican Hat Bridges...

1 - "Tony Hillerman's Navajoland: Hideouts, Haunts, and Havens in the Joe Leaphorn and Jim Chee Mysteries" by Laurance D. Linford; published 2001, beginning page 176.

2 - Blue Mountain Shadows, vol 16, page 86, story by Dick Wing (oil driller) who told story of Mexican Hat bridge burning down in early 1900s.

3 - The Mining Investor (newspaper), February 5, 1912 article about bridge being rebuilt again after the 1909-10 bridge was destroyed by flooding; page 209.

4 - Verbal history related to me by Amy Watkins Kensley's father.

5 - Photograph and verbal history related to me by Fred Blackburn (co-author of "Cowboys and Cave Dwellers" (1997)).



Update, July 5, 2016:  Bridge Dedication for Jason R. Workman, a Navy Seal killed in 2011.

Article Courtesy of San Juan Record: http://www.sjrnews.com/view/full_story/27147597/article-San-Juan-River-Bridge-renamed-to-honor-fallen-hero?

Photo Courtesy of Rob Mador via Facebook.com:

Photo Courtesy of americasbrave.last-memories.com
 

WANTED! Visitors, Tourists, Golfers, Adventurers to Monticello, Utah.

Spring is here and the weather is prime for visiting Southeastern Utah!  Not sure where to go and stay or what to see and do; here's a hint...begin your adventure in Monticello, Utah.  This "little city" may have that small hometown look and feel, but it is the focal point of grand and great adventures.  Being the crossroads of Route 191 and Route 491 makes it the epicenter for reaching the Four Corners of Utah, Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico.


First building you need to make your way to is the Monticello Frontier Museum/Welcome Center which is quickly becoming the premier information center of San Juan County; clean restrooms; free informational brochures, booklets, local phone books and maps; an assortment of books, maps, postcards, puzzles, toys, apparel for sale; a diorama of Monticello spanning 1888 to 1911; the museum allowing the viewer to see a history of San Juan County's pioneers and Native American cultures; fine examples of horse drawn farm implements adorn the outside of the building.  The newest edition is the "Big 4 Tractor" museum which houses the famous tractor, and will include photos and implements associated with tractors.   The "Community Ambassadors" who staff the Center live locally, so are a great resource when it comes to planning out your stay.  Their philosophy is, "We don't just give you vacation ideas, we send you on an Adventure!"; whether planning out a day trip, or several days, they can map out travel loops to maximize your total experience.

Need gas, snacks, cold drinks; there are three gasoline/convenience stores within the town: Shell, Maverik and Conoco.  The Conoco station encompasses a Subway and also offers hot, freshly made pizza.  The Shell station encompasses a Taco Time and Chesters Fried Chicken ; while Maverik offers its own line of hot food products.

Hold on now, what about a freshly made boxed lunch to take out on that hiking, driving or climbing adventure; the Peacetree Cafe offers smoothies, wraps, salads and sandwiches while PJ's Cafe does the more traditional hot sandwiches, burgers and fries.  Looking for a sit down place, again the Peacetree and PJ's offers breakfast, lunch and dinner menus, but if you're looking for comfort food that makes you go "Ahhhh" and makes you feel warm all over, then head on over to the R & F Restaurant, (435) 587-2400.   K & A Chuckwagon will be reopening soon (June 2014) to offer its authentic chuckwagon style dinners.  Looking for a steakhouse (serving dinner only, beginning at 5pm), Line Camp Steakhouse, (435) 587-2351 (9 miles north on Peters Hill), is your go-to place and offers seafood dishes also.   Line Camp is also the location for the Runnin' Iron Inn and offers sites for RVs and camping.


Line Camp Steakhouse and Runnin' Iron Inn

What kind of stores can offer amenities to travelers?  Blue Mountain Foods is the local market and while the selection may be limited, they do have the best bakery in the area.  If you have special dietary needs or are looking for a much larger selection in variety, then City Market in Moab, Utah or Cortez, Colorado (a Walmart also) is your best bet.  Before going, make sure to plan out your trip to Kane Creek Overlook, Flat Pass/Steel Bender, Canyonlands National Park (all in San Juan County) if heading to Moab.  Colorado way, get details on the Hovenweep National Monument and Lowry Pueblo Ruins loop; visit the Anasazi Heritage Museum; or make the pilgrimage to Mesa Verde.

San Juan Pharmacy offers all types of health and beauty aids, plus a selection of gifts and souvenirs; while you're there, say hello to the pharmacist, and Mayor of Monticello, Tim Young.  The Merchantile has household items, and sells fabrics for all you quilters that cannot resist buying up new fat squares or yards; a Family Dollar just had their grand opening on Center Street; Napa Auto is on Main Street for your automotive needs.  Looking for Native American crafts or unusual gifts, try out the Abajo Trading Post or the new Monticello Artisan Co-Op.  Are you in need of auto repair, oil change, or just want to make sure your vehicle is in good shape?  Call Steve at Draper's Towing and Repair, (435) 587-2788; if he isn't able to help you out, he won't hesitate to direct you to another auto service in the town that can.   Needing cash fast?  Wells Fargo and Zions Bank have ATMs; while you might not want to travel with a lot of cash, most businesses take Visa and Mastercard (American Express and Discover not so much).

Monticello has an assortment of hotels, motels, a bed and breakfast (Grist Mill Inn), National Forest campgrounds, RV parks and campsites.  To find the best place suited to your desires, check out reviews on TripAdvisor.com or Yelp.com; what better way than to hear what fellow travelers have to recommend?  Still not sure, once again, call or go to the best source in town, the Welcome Center!






Did you know that, besides the typical cattle ranches, Monticello has an alpaca ranch?  The Peter Springs Alpaca Ranch, Dorothy Pipkin-Padilla (Owner), Phone: (435) 419-0750, Email: dpalpaca9@yahoo.com  Alpaca items are for sale, especially the "pooh" for all you gardeners; tour group coordinators, call Dorothy and see about arranging a tour of the ranch.








Golfers, are you looking for a paradise full of green lawn and holes-in-one; the Hideout Golf Course is your siren's song.

Lastly, looking to buy or rent a home here in Monticello; contact Robert Hatch at Lex Realty, (435) 587-1044, Email: roberthatch@frontiernet.net to help find that perfect location for your needs. 

Remember, a stay in Southeastern Utah begins in Monticello, Utah...who knows, you might love it so much, you'll be buying a home through Lex Realty.

Mary Cokenour

Colorado Along Route 491.

As I mentioned in a previous writing on Monticello, Utah; it is the crossroads for Routes 491 and 191. Traveling east on Route 491, it is about 15 minutes before the border line between Utah and Colorado. Entering Utah from Colorado, you'll be greeted with "Welcome to Utah; Life Elevated"; or vice versa, Colorado will greet you with, "Welcome to Colorful Colorado".



Dove Creek, CO

As you pass by High Country Elevator (dried beans and grains), the small town of Dove Creek will come into sight.  The speed limit slows from 65 - 55 - 45 and finally 35 miles/hour quickly; the local sheriff's department maintains vehicles at either end of town to make sure the speed limits are abided by.  At the Weber Industrial Park is the tractor exhibit; Midland Bean Company; Shell and Sinclair (both gas/convenience stores) and various other businesses line the main street. 




Adobe Milling Company
 

Continuing east, sitting on the extreme point of the hill is Adobe Milling Company whose products are available in many of the supermarkets throughout Utah and Colorado; popular sellers are Anasazi Beans and various hot sauces.







Along the way you'll pass a few "blink and you'll miss them" tiny towns; Cahone, Pleasant View and Yellow Jacket (observe the reduced to 50 miles/hour speed limits).  Eventually you will come to the junction of Route 184; turning onto this road will bring you past McPhee Reservoir and the Anasazi Heritage Museum.  At the end of the road is Route 145 either leading to Cortez, or the other way towards Dolores; keep going past Dolores though and say hello to the Rocky Mountains and you're on your way to Telluride.



McPhee Reservoir
 

The landscape along Route 491 encompasses "as far as the eye can see" miles of open range, pastures, fields, canyons, and dried creeks taken over by nature's greenery.  There are many access roads to the San Juan National Forest; on a windy day do not be surprised to see a dust devil or two sweeping along the horizon view line.   The one hour drive between Monticello, Utah and Cortez, Colorado is scenic and calming, if you open your senses up to it all.

Once you reach Cortez though, you can dine at many of the eateries (fast food and casual restaurants); window shop along the main street; there are two full service supermarkets and a WalMart.  That part of Cortez is along Route 160 and if you keep following that route, you'll pass Mancos (an arts and crafts type of town) and eventually see the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park; or keep going up into the mountains towards Durango.  Staying on Route 491 would head you towards New Mexico where you'll see Chimney Rock and Shiprock.

 

Choices, choices...don't keep asking how many miles between this and that; just make a decision on which direction and enjoy the ride.

 

Mary Cokenour

Happy and Challenging Seven Years in Monticello, Utah.

Seven years have gone by since Roy and I moved to Monticello.  While we've been happy, for the most part, to say it was challenging is an understatement.  We still have struggles, but we face them together; and we've developed several friendships with locals that have helped us keep our sanity.

I predicted that within ten years this town would change, and it has slowly and surely.  New larger businesses are Maverik, Family Dollar,  Spower Wind Farm and Canyon Country Discovery Center; some smaller businesses are Paca Pantry (Alpaca products and more), Door No. 3 (florist and gifts), Draper's Auto Repair and Towing, Desert Stone Studio (my husband's venture into videography, animation and editing).  The new City Council and, still acting, Mayor (Tim Young - owner of Main Street Pharmacy and Gifts) acknowledge that business growth is needed to keep this small town viable. 

Proudly I can say that many new citizens have moved into the area due to what they have read on this blog.  Tourism is up, and I know many visitors have come, once again, due to this blog.  Now how can I say this?  Well, they tell me!  I've met many of them, and I'm not shocked anymore to see my blog on someone's phone or tablet. 

There are still citizens here that live in a time warp bubble; as far as they're concerned, it's still the 19th century when the first pioneers settled in San Juan County.  Their children's children, however, have a more modern view mainly due to all the technology and internet of the 21st century.  Monticello will continue to change as more "outsiders" move into the area; as more businesses open; as more visitors from all over the world come to experience this part of the Southwest.  Oh, that term "outsiders" is one that those born and bred here call everyone else; then again, what small town doesn't do that?

So, why should you consider visiting Monticello, or even moving here?  Real blue sky that goes on forever; stars at night that shine as bright as diamonds; the moon so large that you can't help but reach up and try to touch it; air is clean and crisp with the scent of sage; open land as far as the eyes can see...need I go on?  Alright, I will then...how about the definition of a traffic jam out here?  Three pickup trucks in front of you and no passing lane; much more preferable than a backed up major highway through an overcrowded city full of dirt, pollution and wall to wall people.  Peaked your interest yet?

Lets take a photographic tour of the town...



North Entrance - Welcome Sign and Canyon Country Discovery Center.



View of town from Young's Machine Shop.

Junction of Highways 191 (North/South) and 491 (East/West)

North Main Street

Monticello Library

San Juan Record - Local Newspaper which I write food articles for thanks to owner, Bill Boyle.

Veterans Memorial Park

Traveling east along Route 491 will bring you into Colorado; only a 20 minute ride to another state!  Westward is Blue Mountain Foods (local grocery); local elementary and high school; San Juan Hospital and Clinic.

Highway 491 East.

South Main Street

Shops Along South Main Street.

San Juan County Building - Monticello is the County Seat.

This is where I work, so stop in and say "Hello!".

Monticello Welcome Center, Frontier Museum, Big 4 Tractor Building

Looking northward from the Welcome Center.

Looking southward from the Welcome Center.

Hideout Golf Club and Community Center.



Panorama View of the Golf Course from the Community Center balcony.

Hideout Golf Course.

Leaving Monticello along South Route 191, the Monticello Millsite Memorial, with walking trails, will be on the left.  This was dedicated to all those workers, and their families, who became ill due to the effects of uranium exposure and poisoning from the Monticello Uranium Mill.

Continuing south on Route 191 are the small towns of Blanding and Bluff; outside of Bluff, continue onto Route 163 for Mexican Hat, the San Juan River and finally Monument Valley.   As you can see from the photos, I wasn't lying about the blue sky and open landscapes.

...and for your viewing pleasure, Monticello Utah - Main and Center; the Video!

After seven years, I've finally seen and held a Desert Horned Lizard (aka Horny Toad).

...and yes, there are rattlesnakes here in the desert.  Utah has the Midget (aka Pgymy) Faded Rattlesnake which is very deadly; about 10 to 20 minutes before you're a goner.

 

Video of Midget Faded Rattlesnakes c/o Desert Stone Studio.

In the Manti-La Sal National Forest is an elusive creature, the Abert's Squirrel; well I finally saw, not one, not two, but three!  It's at the lower elevations, and we found these on the forest road (FR 085) which passes by Devil's Canyon campground.

I've still to capture a Golden Eagle on camera, but here's a Red Tailed Hawk in flight.

...and who doesn't love the Praying Mantis?  The ones I've seen out here are slightly larger than the ones back on the East coast.

Living out here in the Southwest, I've been able to see and experience places and things that I never thought I would.  Luckily, I have the best companion in the world, Roy Cokenour; my husband, bestest friend, cohort and co-conspirator, fellow adventurer and explorer. 

Three more years Monticello, three more years to give my prediction of change more to go on.

Mary Cokenour

Note: Roy is currently working on a video of Monticello and will be posted on here asap.