On the Edge at the Needles Overlook

The entrance to Canyonlands National Park - The Needles District can be accessed via Route 211, off Route 191 in San Juan County.  However, what you might not be able to see at Canyonlands itself without hiking, you might just see more clearly at the Overlook.   The Canyon Rims Recreation Area is the entrance to Needles Overlook aka CR 133(rough paved), Anticline Overlook (graded gravel and dirt) and Looking Glass Road aka CR 131 (dirt).  All three roads can be done in one day, but expect to do a lot of hiking, climbing and driving; it's a given you'll be doing a lot of stopping for photos. At Needles Overlook, there are several picnic tables placed at strategic places to give visitors a spectacular view of the area while munching on a meal.  The Overlook is quiet, so quiet you can hear the air blowing throughout the canyon, sort of like the rushing of water.  There could be the sound of a hawk or golden eagle nesting nearby; we heard one, but did not see it flying about.



Hatch Point and Lockhart Basin
 

Once you park up at the Overlook, you can follow the gravel trails (right to Hatch Point and Lockhart Basin; left to Indian Creek and Needles) to the fencing (be warned, there is walking over rocks also) and see the wonders before you.  The fencing does end at some point, and going beyond it is at your own risk; Roy and I went beyond.   We went right first to Hatch Point and Lockhart Basin; my photos won't be those outstanding photo shopped ones on Google Images, with colors of the rainbow popping throughout.  The outstanding scene before you speaks for itself.



Formations directly across from Hatch Point Lookout



There are times when there are shots I want so badly, I'm willing to crawl out on a ledge, or stand near to an edge to get it.  Am I afraid?  I don't think about it; to think about it makes you doubt yourself and that is when you will stumble, lose your footing or get dizzy.  Be careful moving outward, take the shot, be careful moving backward...simple.  To get the shot of the sandstone tower below the Hatch Point Lookout, I needed to get close to the edge.  My hubby has always been too much in shock to take a photo of me doing this "craziness", but finally he got his shot.  Warning, I'm no fashion model; but I'm a heck of a spit fire.

 

 

 

Indian Creek
 

Making your way towards the other side of Needles Overlook will bring you to Indian Creek and, of course, a view of Needles.  Unfortunately, you're still going to be too far away from the Needles to make them out clearly, and the haze on a sunny day doesn't help any.









Rock and earth are not the only landscaping effected by wind, sun and the weather in general; the plant life can also be shaped.  Take for example this tree which looks like a long limbed female holding a ball (the greenery) above her head; the sensual twist of her body as her slender arms reach upwards.







Now I'm going to let you in on a little secret; there is a place you can go that will give you a slightly better view of Needles than the Overlook itself.  As you are just getting to the Overlook, there will be a dirt road to the left which leads to campgrounds.  As you can see from the photo of one side of it, the "fire places" were built with loving hands.  Please do not tamper with them, nor leave garbage lying around; these camp sites are free, shared with other travelers,  and should be respected.

The Needles
 

Don't forget to enjoy all the scenery as you make your way to Needles Overlook; keep an eye out for Pronghorn Deer (Antelope).  The whole idea of the trip is enjoyment, so relax and put time in the backseat for awhile.

Pronghorn Deer/Antelope
 

Mary Cokenour

Looking Glass Road's Back End Way - Utah.

Between Moab and Monticello on Route 191, just south of the La Sal junction, is Looking Glass Road (CR 131). Not only can you see Looking Glass Arch, but CR 131 leads to CR133 which leads to either Anticline Overlook (ungraded gravel/dirt road), or to the Needles Overlook (roughly paved road). All of this is part of what is known as Canyon Rims Recreation Area; full of camping areas, hiking, climbing, spectacular scenic overlooks and amazing sites. Of the three roads,  I'm going to finish what I started which is Looking Glass Road, but from the back end up to its beginning on Route 191.

CR 131 (dirt road) is just a hop-skip-jump from the "Y" intersection of the Overlook roads; make a quick right and you're on it.  The first site on the road, well besides the awesome landscapes, is Eight Mile Rock; a "cow camp" where families would live while taking care of the local rancher's cattle.  It was much easier to live there, then to travel back and forth from a home in Moab, La Sal or Monticello. By the way, there will be three different roads around that area; one goes around the back of Eight Mile Rock and eventually gets back to CR 131, CR 131 itself (neither have signs), and the last has a little sign bar that says "36 - Easiest"...do NOT follow this road unless you want to see the oil storage facility at the end of it. Yes, I'm speaking from experience here.

Eight Mile Rock

 

As you continue down CR 131, a large sandstone formation will be coming up with the La Sal Mountains in the background. This is Rockland Ranch, aka "The Rock"; a polygamist community started approximately 35 years ago and currently housing 15 families. The photos I have were taken with a telephoto lens as I didn't want to drive up the road and disturb the folks residing there. Hubby and I had heard rumors of a community living out in the middle of nowhere, so were surprised to actually come across it.

Following the long, winding, dirt road of CR 131 leaves Rockland Ranch behind you, but another surprise is just around every sandstone hill. 








While it could be a cove of semi-caves large enough to build a small home within; it could very well be abandoned homes that were built within the sandstone hill itself, similar to Eight Mile Rock.  An old fashioned propane gas
stove sits in one of the "homes" with mattresses designating it as the sleeping area; the other holds a couch.  Most likely these interiors were first blasted out with dynamite before the walls could be hand carved to smoothness.



Sea of Sage
 

Open the windows of your vehicle; whether by its movement, or a desert wind, breathe in the soothing and healing scent of the sage.  Feel renewed and revitalized as you travel to the final point of your destination...Looking Glass Arch.

Looking Glass Arch
 










Enjoy your journey through the middle of the desert.

Mary Cokenour

Colorado Along Route 491.

As I mentioned in a previous writing on Monticello, Utah; it is the crossroads for Routes 491 and 191. Traveling east on Route 491, it is about 15 minutes before the border line between Utah and Colorado. Entering Utah from Colorado, you'll be greeted with "Welcome to Utah; Life Elevated"; or vice versa, Colorado will greet you with, "Welcome to Colorful Colorado".



Dove Creek, CO

As you pass by High Country Elevator (dried beans and grains), the small town of Dove Creek will come into sight.  The speed limit slows from 65 - 55 - 45 and finally 35 miles/hour quickly; the local sheriff's department maintains vehicles at either end of town to make sure the speed limits are abided by.  At the Weber Industrial Park is the tractor exhibit; Midland Bean Company; Shell and Sinclair (both gas/convenience stores) and various other businesses line the main street. 




Adobe Milling Company
 

Continuing east, sitting on the extreme point of the hill is Adobe Milling Company whose products are available in many of the supermarkets throughout Utah and Colorado; popular sellers are Anasazi Beans and various hot sauces.







Along the way you'll pass a few "blink and you'll miss them" tiny towns; Cahone, Pleasant View and Yellow Jacket (observe the reduced to 50 miles/hour speed limits).  Eventually you will come to the junction of Route 184; turning onto this road will bring you past McPhee Reservoir and the Anasazi Heritage Museum.  At the end of the road is Route 145 either leading to Cortez, or the other way towards Dolores; keep going past Dolores though and say hello to the Rocky Mountains and you're on your way to Telluride.



McPhee Reservoir
 

The landscape along Route 491 encompasses "as far as the eye can see" miles of open range, pastures, fields, canyons, and dried creeks taken over by nature's greenery.  There are many access roads to the San Juan National Forest; on a windy day do not be surprised to see a dust devil or two sweeping along the horizon view line.   The one hour drive between Monticello, Utah and Cortez, Colorado is scenic and calming, if you open your senses up to it all.

Once you reach Cortez though, you can dine at many of the eateries (fast food and casual restaurants); window shop along the main street; there are two full service supermarkets and a WalMart.  That part of Cortez is along Route 160 and if you keep following that route, you'll pass Mancos (an arts and crafts type of town) and eventually see the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park; or keep going up into the mountains towards Durango.  Staying on Route 491 would head you towards New Mexico where you'll see Chimney Rock and Shiprock.

 

Choices, choices...don't keep asking how many miles between this and that; just make a decision on which direction and enjoy the ride.

 

Mary Cokenour

La Plata Highway - Colorado to New Mexico

Some of my hubby's family live in Farmington, New Mexico; we have found three different routes to get there. The first is down Route 491 towards Shiprock and then hook a left to Farmington. The second is Route 550 from Durango to Route 516 in New Mexico; the third though is the one I'm going to write about today.  The La Plata Highway which begins as Route 140 in Colorado, but changes its number to 170 when you cross the border into New Mexico. Now that is one thing I will never truly understand about smaller roadway numbering, why they need to change once you enter a new state. Look at major roadways like Interstate 95 which goes from Maine to Florida; same name all the way from tip to tip. Is it a territorial thing; a possessive issue?  No wonder people can easily get lost without a detailed map; you believe you've somehow gotten on the wrong road, when all along you're exactly where you need to be.

Anyway, living in Monticello, Utah, we usually drive down Route 491 to Cortez, Colorado; turn onto Route 160 East and follow that past Mancos and begin the trek up towards the Rocky Mountain region.  This route will also take you to Durango which I've written about a little, but there will be so much more to come on that subject. As you start the climb upwards, one of the turns will give you a view of the beautiful La Plata County valley; lushly green, surrounded by mountains of grey stone and forest.  Here's the tease, you'll also be passing by a pull-in area for Escalante Wayside; also the roads to and through Echo Basin and La Plata Canyon.  You know I'll be writing about those in later posts, and oh, do I have photos!

You know you're coming close to the turn for Route 140 when you see the ski lift; only open in the winter time of course, and fun watching the skiers come down the slopes.  Make the right turn onto Route 140 and say hello to the little town of Hesperus;  completely charming little place of lovely homes and a quaint old church.  My big thrill though is as you're leaving town you come upon a swamp like area with a beaver's dam, croaking frogs, downed logs; not something you would expect to see in the forest filled, mountainous area.

As you travel along, there will be a sign for "Hay Gulch", a mostly graded road (flattened gravel and dirt) which winds around through the back of  "Fort Lewis" and back to Route 140; basically ranches along the way.  If you want to get a tiny taste of history though, stay on the main road and make a stop at Fort Lewis.  This fort was used more for keeping an eye on the Ute and Navajo tribes, and the miners coming in to find silver, before it was converted to a school. 

               1878 - 1891

Not many of the original buildings stand any longer, but now you can see where Fort Lewis College basically had its beginnings.



As you get closer to the "Welcome to New Mexico" sign, and the border between New Mexico and Colorado; you'll begin to see a change in the landscaping.  Less ranches and greenery, more grey stone hills and formations begin to appear.   The La Plata Highway (Route 170) is pretty much in the same location as it was back in the 1800s; beginning in Southern Ute Reservation and terminating in Farmington, New Mexico.  However, the highway passes through a large number of prehistoric pueblo settlements ranging in age from the AD 500s to the 1300s.


Driving through the town of La Plata and into Farmington, the Adobe hills become more and more prominent, with an oil pump jack dotting the landscape here and there.


Farmington is basically a small version of a city without the high rise buildings.  Malls, chain stores and restaurants intertwined with ancient history and geology.  The Bisti Badlands, Anasazi Arch, Angel Peak, Aztec ruins, Shiprock and Chaco Canyon to name just a few.  The drive from start to end of the La Plata Highway is about one hour; scenic and calming, I would have to say that this is my personal favorite way to get to Farmington, New Mexico.

Mary Cokenour

Baker's Bridge - A Tribute to Colorado Miners.

As I mentioned in my review of the Bar D Chuckwagon experience, you have to travel along scenic Route 250 from Durango to reach it. However, my husband and I got there earlier than planned, so decided to do a little bit of exploring of Route 250. It is only five miles more before you reach Route 550 (around mile marker 36) which leads either back to Durango (12 miles), or up north through the Rocky Mountains towards Silverton. Continue onwards towards Quray, Red Hill Pass and eventually you'll end up in Grand Junction, but be prepared for many other scenic locations along the entire way.

Along Route 250 we came across the most beautiful area imaginable, Baker's Bridge.  Captain Charles Baker lead an expedition of 15 men in the hopes of finding, and mining, gold.  The men camped down by the Animas River, during the winter of 1860 - 1861, at what became known as Animas City.  Durango itself had not been founded, named or settled yet.  The men endured many hardships; attacks by the Ute Indians, harsh winter conditions, and war...The Civil War.  The men who made it through the attacks and weather ended up in an area they named Baker's Park which later became known as Silverton.  However, the Civil War forced many to take up arms; those that lived returned, but the landmarks etched upon their maps had been destroyed (mainly trees cut down), and the gold was lost.  Legend says that it is still waiting up in the mountains to be claimed.

Baker's Bridge was built to give easier access over the Animas River; the original bridge was torn down and recreated with sturdy concrete.  The water flows quickly on the river, white caps topping the waves; the sound of it as enchanting as the song of a siren.  The entire area is calm, serene and majestic; whether standing along the fenced wall, or sitting upon the rocks down below, you are at peace.

 

 

While the surrounding area is forest, plant life grows from between the rocks and boulders along the Animas River.  Even the stones along the roadway flourish with life; the Yucca, a desert plant, shows off its bell like blooms.



If you find yourself around the Durango area, take the ride along Route 250 and make sure to stop at Baker's Bridge; enjoy the simplicity of serenity.

Mary Cokenour

The Bar D Chuckwagon in Durango, Colorado.

 

Bar D Chuckwagon

8080 County Road 250

Durango, CO 81301

 

(970) 247-5753

 

 

                                               Website: http://www.bardchuckwagon.com

 

The easiest description I can give of Bar D Chuckwagon is FUN!!!  The atmosphere rustic and serene; the staff are so, so friendly; the cowboy food is hearty and filling; and the entertainment ranged anywhere to sentimental to fall on the floor funny.   The drive along Route 250 is beautiful; we saw two young Elk grazing, but unfortunately there is no real shoulder to pull off on to take photos.  To get to Route 250, make a turn onto 32nd Street in Durango (City Market side); follow to the 250 junction and turn to the left; keep on following the road till you see those welcoming gates to the Bar D; follow the paved road to the parking lot.

 

 

 

 

Once you park, head on over to the train station to purchase your tickets.  The price includes the meal and the show; the tickets have assigned table numbers, so the earlier you get there (it opens at 5:30pm), the closer to the stage you are).  There is a train ride for the children; also a wedding chapel for ceremonies.

As you continue walking around, you'll see the Record Shop where CDs and DVDs of the Bar D Wranglers can be purchased.  There are many more shops, and there is bound to be something that catches your eye; or your taste buds like at the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Shop. 






The outside decor ranges from historic to simply fun.

The back area of the property contains the dining section with wooden, picnic style tables and benches; all with numbers that correspond with the tickets.  The kitchen area doubles as the stage once meals are done with.  The backdrop for the entire area is a beautiful forest and towering formations of stone.

 

 

 

Dinner begins at 7:30pm and Bar D is not chintzy with the food items; your cowboy plate is full.  For those with really large appetite, if there are extras available, they will be offered after everyone has gotten their firsts.  Lemonade, coffee and water are served in metal cups; remember this is a cowboy dinner and you're going rustic.  Choices in meat range from BBQ Beef, BBQ Chicken, Combo of both or Ribeye Steak; beans, baked potato, biscuit, applesauce and spiced cake are included too.  See, told you they were not cheap on the grub.

 

 

Bar D Wranglers
 

Matt Palmer and Richard Lee Cody
 

Gary Cook and Joel Racheff
 

Bar D Wranglers are the entertainment for the evening and they are, not just very talented, but absolutely wonderfully fun to listen to.  The Western songs vary from sentimental to hilarious; for instance, their updated version of "Ghost Riders in the Sky" to "Low Riders in the Sky".  At any moment I was expecting Gabriel Iglesias to walk on stage yelling, "Martin!!!" 

 

 



Cy Scarborough
 

One of the original founders and owners of the Bar D came out on stage to sing about opossums; Cy Scarborough started this Chuckwagon rolling along in 1969.  He helped to end the evening with a patriotic medley of the United States, and it was hard not to stand, put your hand over your heart and sing along.








If you're visiting Durango, whether spending a few days, overnight, or going home the same day; make sure to plan for an evening at Bar D Chuckwagon.  Get along little doggies.

Mary Cokenour