Hiking Around Shay Canyon - Part One

Already gave you a taste of Shay Ridge and Shay Mountain up in the Abajo Mountains.  Now it's time to go to a lower elevation and tell you about Shay Canyon.  The trailhead to Shay Canyon is located about 2 miles west from Newspaper Rock Historical Site (my odometer puts it at 1.8 miles), along Scenic Highway 211.

Actually, this part one was a second hiking trip we took into Shay Canyon.  The first time we climbed upward to the walls of the canyon to ooh and ahh over the rock art panels.  Well I'm going to make you wait for that, as I think it's important you discover all the wonders there.  The Pillar, or what looks, from the highway, like a jug handle arch until you hike to it.  The plant and wildlife; and there are dinosaur tracks embedded into the rock bed of the wash.  Funny story about those dino tracks; walking along I said to my hubby, "Hey hunny, these look like dino tracks!" to which he responded, "Oh no, that's just erosion from water that ran through here."  Sure, I believed that until I found an online BLM report which stated "dinosaur tracks can be found within the rock bed of the dry wash".  So what does that mean?  Means we have to make a third trip back to find those tracks again and photograph them; believe me, this is not a problem or hardship.

Shay Canyon is a beautiful, secluded and soothing place to be; the quiet is very welcome.  We traversed two well worn paths, but came across huge boulders that required climbing over.  That wasn't a problem for us, it was the dark clouds moving closer that deterred us.  Rain can lead to possible flash flooding; it's bad enough to be in an area you know well, but in an unknown area.  Well, either way, we're not stupid enough to take the chance of getting caught up in a flood; a dry wash can become a raging river in seconds!

Anyway, enjoy the photos you're about to see; hint, doing this hike in April or May is much cooler, heat wise, than the hot, hot months of June through August.

Our second time there was in May; the drought in San Juan County had become so severe, Indian Creek was dry as a bone.  Instead of stepping on wet rocks to cross over, it was sand, dry sand we walked over.  After crossing over, a short trail leads you into the bedrock of a creek that once flowed through this canyon area.

We walked towards the pillar first, it's shape becoming more defined the closer you get to it.  Then trail continued for another 500 feet from the pillar, and then the boulders appeared and the only way around was over them.

Pass those bushes in the background is where the boulders blocked the actual path, and climbing over them is required.










Walking back to the Pillar, we started off on a second path.  Now one thing I have to tell you is that some stepping upward from rock bed to upper rock bed will be required on both of the dirt trails.  A walking stick is a huge help for keeping you steady on the climb ups.





There were a few interesting caves above us on the canyon walls; where any creatures were living inside them, we couldn't tell.  However, as seems to be becoming a pattern, turkey vultures suddenly flew in and began circling us.  Sorry fellas, we're not going to be your lunch this time either!

Turkey Vulture in Flight

There is an abundance of plant and wildlife in this area; prickly pear cacti and yucca were in bloom, as well as desert globe mallow and tufted evening primrose aka sand lily (name is understandable as it was growing up from the sandy soil in the dry wash.  Sitting upon a boulder was a desert lizard watching us; we could almost swear he winked at us.

Up on a ledge is Blooming Yucca and prickly pear cacti below it.

Desert Globe Mallow (Mallow family)

Blooming Prickly Pear Cacti growing in large patches, not a single plant.

During the day, this Tufted Evening Primrose takes a nap, but in the evening, the blooms will be in colors of white, pink and purple.  This is also called the Sand Lily, and that is exactly the growth medium the plant thrives in...sand.







Even in death, the trees split and twist into unusual shapes of beauty in their own right.

That's my hubby, Roy, standing by the twisted tree.

Now here comes your teasers for Hiking Shay Canyon - Part Two.  From the original trail, there is an offshoot trail that leads up to the canyon walls themselves; a half mile of rock art drawings and cravings from native tribes who lived in the area, or just passed through and left a message.  As with any historical site, the only trace you should be leaving is a footprint in the sand.

There is always something new to see in San Juan County, so plan your trip and expect to spend a few weeks to months.  One or two days, well it's just unacceptable!

Mary Cokenour

A Perfect Place for Thought and Reflection - Harts Point Road.

It had been over a year since the last time we had explored Harts Point Road, so it was high time to go back.  San Juan County is chock full of places that one can go to that is peaceful and beautiful; perfect places to clear the mind and soul; leave the real world behind for just a little while.  In case you don't want to click on the link in the first sentence, let me remind you how to get there.

First choice, travel over the one paved mountain road from Monticello where you'll eventually travel down a section called Harts Draw Road.  As soon as you reach Scenic Highway 211 (road to Newspaper Rock and Canyonlands National Park - The Needles District), make a left turn and then a quick right turn onto a dirt road (sign will say Indian Creek Recreation Area).  This is also known as San Juan County Road 137, Jackson Spring and Harts Point Road.  Why all the names?  I don't truly know, but I'm telling you all the names depending on which map you use, and what map site you use on the internet.  By the way, warning you now, do NOT depend on technology out here; no cell service, no GPS, no wifi; make sure to have paper maps and written out directions.

Second choice if you do not drive over the paved (seems I have to repeat this minor detail many times) mountain road, then drive directly to Scenic Highway 211, go 9.6 miles and you will come to Harts Point Road on the right side (you just passed Harts Draw Road on your left a couple of seconds ago). Warning, you will definitely need 4 wheel drive for this sandy, sometimes rocky, sometimes driving over slickrock, road.  So now you have directions and a couple of warnings, time to see why this area is so wonderful and shouldn't be missed.  Hiking is definitely a plus, and while camping is allowed, clean up and take your trash with you!

All along this road are visible 4 wheel drive trails, no, we haven't done all of them, but the ones we have done either dead end at a camping area, and then hiking to the ledges is involved; or they just just end in the middle of nowhere (no camping area, no close hiking to viewpoints).  You'll never know until you try!  The left side of the road leads to fantastical views of the Indian Creek Valley; the surface of the ledges is slickrock full of potholes, trees and plants growing up through cracks and a few surprises.  Harts Point Road puts you at a higher elevation than Indian Creek, so you will be overlooking the #1 crack climbing walls in the world, and sites like Bridger Jack Mesa and the North and South Six Shooters...you can even see into the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park!!!

Indian Creek Crack Climbing Walls.

Since we were on a journey of "just enjoying the ride", I won't be giving out details of how to find the locations of the photos as I didn't bother to make notes.  Like I stated before, there are many trails to try out, so just do it!

So, lets take a gander at the Six Shooters and you can make out some of Canyonlands beyond.  We found a lovely surprise that someone had left on the ledge, a sculpture which enhanced our viewing experience. 

At another trail, we were able to get a view of Bridger Jack Mesa.

Breathless views, right?

How about the North and South Six Shooters up close.

North Six Shooter.

South Six Shooter.

...and suddenly you're overlooking the Needles.

When it comes to my photography, I'm all about the landscapes, plant life and wildlife.

Now this little guy was sitting on the fence post over at Marie's Place aka Home of Truth, while I've seen squirrels up in the forest, this was a first time for a desert dweller.











...and then there are the turkey vultures.  Seems lately, every time we go driving and hiking into desert areas, we find ourselves being circled by these guys up above.  Oh, we already know what they're thinking, "just wait awhile boys, lunch will be served soon".













Alright, now a few locals told me the name of this plant was "spiny globe yucca", but when I tried verifying this detail within my southwestern plant books, and online, nada, nope, nyet, nein, nothing.  Took me about a half hour of perusing photos online, but finally found one that had been taken inside Canyonlands, and the name is:Yucca nana (Y. harrimaniae)  Frankly, I refer to it as "spiny globe yucca" simply because that is what it looks like!

If you're going to visit this area, make sure to pack lots of water to drink and a picnic; there's nothing like sitting out on one of those ledges, the world opened up before you, and silence...and don't forget to take your trash out with you!

Mary Cokenour

Known and Unknown Sites In and Around Monticello, Utah.

So, here I go again being a tattle tale and telling secrets about sites to see and/or visit in the Monticello, Utah area.  I've already given away the big secret about the Abajo Mountains; all those wonderful, and FREE, campsites up in the mountains: two run by the National Forestry Agency(Dalton Springs and Buckboard), around the three lakes (Loyd's, Foy and Monticello), and hidden amongst the forest down unmarked dirt roads. Now it's time to reveal more secrets, some known, but most kept quiet about and not in guidebooks or detailed on maps.

The Abajo Mountains

Abajo Peak

I'll begin with two known details about the Abajo Mountains; Abajo means "down" in Spanish, but many refer to them as the "Blue Mountains" as the greenery plus sky give the range a bluish tint.  The first known item is about Abajo Peak, height reaching to 11, 360 feet; there is a rough, dirt road which can be traveled to the very top (where the antennas are), but a smaller 4 wheel drive vehicle or ATV is recommended...no huge trucks or RVs. 





The Horsehead

The second known item is called "The Horsehead", a grouping of evergreen trees surrounded by a field that resembles the head of a horse.  Look at it sideways and the nose of the horse is near the top of the mountain, then follow down to get the entire view of the head.  Now remember, there are loads of free campsites in these mountains, so take advantage of it while the weather is warm; once winter blows in, the roads basically shut down up there.  That is pretty much a shame too, as winter sports would help the city of Monticello bring in funds during that time of year.  Snowmobiling, skiing, cross-country skiing, even ice skating on the lakes would have folks looking forward to a nice hot meal and drink at any of the restaurants in town.  I'll eventually be doing a write up on winter in this region, so you'll see what I mean about snow, and how winter sports would be a big boon to the area.

Now I have mentioned in previous write ups about the Abajo Mountains that Mule Deer roam the roads quite freely.  At this time of year, the does and bucks have been bringing out their fawns; unfortunately, nearby the entrance to Loyd's Lake, some jackass hit two fawns and left them to rot on the side of the road.  Nearby to the bodies was the local cleanup crew...Turkey Vultures; incredibly ugly, and yet beautiful creatures in their own right.  Massive birds with a wingspan between 5 to 6 feet, about as wide as my car!  So, when you're up in the Abajos, you never know who or what you'll meet up with.

Is she ever going to stop taking pictures and go away!?!

We're going to leave the city of Monticello and begin traveling south on Route 191; past the entrance to Bull Hollow Raceway, down a curvy hill; about six miles down (around mile marker 65) is the "ghost town" of Verdure.

There is a plaque at this site that explains the location, but I was able to find out a few more details from a University of Utah website.  In March 1886, Francis A. Hammond, the LDS Stake President  (the leading LDS regional authority) of San Juan County, sent scouts from Bluff to find locations for settlements near the water sources of the Abajo Mountains. The scouts found the land was already being used; probably by cattleman Patrick O'Donnell (1879), the first white man known to have built a cabin in the area. The scouts first set up camp at Verdure (which refers to "lush, green vegetation") near the South Fork of Montezuma Creek on March 11, 1887.  By early July, 1887, the men had begun to plant crops, survey an irrigation ditch, and layout a town site for "North Montezuma".  Conflicts soon began with the Carlisle cowboys and Ute over water and land rights; lawyers decided that the cowboys had basically no legal claim to any of either.  The Mormons, therefore, claimed all the water from the South Fork and 3/4 of the water from the North Fork. In the spring of 1888, the Adams and Butt families remained in Verdure while the rest of the settlers moved to North Montezuma to begin construction of the town. Early names for the settlement were North Montezuma Creek, Piute Springs, and Hammond (after the LDS stake president) and Antioch, but none of those names were approved by the members of the community.  Hammond recommended Monticello, in honor of Thomas Jefferson’s estate; it was approved and accepted in the latter part of 1888.  Eventually Verdure was abandoned, and the residents all moved to Monticello. 

However, in 1903, the Utah State Agricultural College in Logan established an experimental station in Verdure where various dry-farming techniques were tested for thirteen years; that is the origin of many of the structures on the property that are there now.  Long history lesson, but the story needed to be told to understand why it was originally there, and why it was now a "ghost town".

 

 


The nearby walls do have "caves", similar in looks to possible cliff dwellings; however, all I could make out with the zoom lens were fallen stones inside the openings, no built structures.  Could these caves possibly been simply hideouts for outlaws, or look out posts for Native Americans?  Anything is possible.






Last, but not least, and still traveling south on Route 191, by mile marker 56 (on the east side of the roadway) are little known about Cliff Dwellings.  I'm giving credit to Monticello for these, as we still haven't reached Recapture Reservoir yet, not the Blanding town limits.  During the warm months, these ruins cannot be easily seen, except with a zoom camera lens or binoculars, due to the growth of vegetation.  When the vegetation is gone, there are the ruins in all their ancient glory!

By the way, four miles south of Verdure is Devil's Canyon and it has campgrounds; you'll have to check out the informational board there for size limitations, fees, rules and regulations.  It is a very beautiful and serene area, and perfect if you would prefer not to camp out in the Abajo Mountains.

There you have it, a couple of awesome sites to see that are in guidebooks or on maps, and then those little secret places that ghost town and/or ruin hunters love to look for.

Mary Cokenour