The Alive State of Utah.

A strange conversation I had during the past summer prompted me to gather up photos of animal and plant life that I have encountered living in Utah.  The conversation went as follows:

Female Visitor: "What are those yellow flowers along Route 491 from Cortez to Monticello?"
Me: "Sunflowers, Yellow Daisy? We have a large variety of plant life around here."
Female Visitor: "No, no, no, I know what those are and the yellow flowers I saw aren't either of them."
Me: "Did you take a photo I could look at?  If I don't know it offhand, I could look in one of the nature books we have for sale."
Female Visitor: "What is the matter with people around here; why are you so ignorant that you don't even know what flowers grow on the roadside???"
Me: "Ummm...what?"

Now I have to tell you that as insulted as I was by what she stated, I still smiled and wished her a good day and a safe journey.  Inside though, I plotted her demise in many ways.  Now I own "National Audubon's Field Guide to the Southwestern States" and "Canyon Country Wildflowers" which are packed with hundreds and hundreds of photos linked to species of flowers, bushes, wildlife, birds, insects, etc.  I have the books to help me out with "what is that....?" questions; common sense, and assuming that anyone knows every item in these books makes one, well, an ass.

So I am going to share with you some photos of many of the creatures and plant life that I have seen; there are so many more I have heard about, or missed photographing as it ran off into the forest or underbrush.  Doesn't mean I won't keep trying to capture their images.

Plant Life

Claret Cup Cactus

Columbine, The State Flower of Colorado

Datura aka Moonflower

Moonflower Canyon is named after the Dakura; this plant is very poisonous and should NOT be ingested.


Desert Globemallow

Desert Paintbrush

Desert Paintbrush is a more compact form of Indian Paintbrush; growing in desert sand, this plant grows in a bush formation with shorter stems.


Indian Paintbrush

Foxtails aka Prince's Plume

Lupine

Prickly Pear Cactus

San Rafael Cactus

The San Rafael Cactus can be found, where else...the San Rafael Swell.


Utah Yellow Daisy

Yucca

The Yucca plant was a very important staple for the Native American; the roots and flowers are edible; the seed pods can be boiled down to make a sweet paste, or hardened into a candy; the fibers from the stems were used to make footwear and rope.











Wildlife, Birds and Insects




Antelope aka Pronghorn Deer

When I first saw Pronghorn Deer, they reminded me very much of photos of African antelope. So far I have seen them in Thompson Springs, on the road going to the Needles and Anticline Overlooks, and the San Rafael Swell.















Mule Deer

Mule Deer are the prominent species of deer in the area; although they reside mostly in the forests of the Abajo and La Sal Mountains, they do not hesitate to come into town looking for food.

Mule Deer

Prairie Dog



Raven in Flight

While Ravens are a dime a dozen in this area, I was lucky to capture a photo of a Wren sitting on a sandstone formation at Arches National Park.




Wren Sunning on the Red Rocks



 

Sphinx Moth

This Sphinx Moth I found sitting on the front steps on a cool morning; after bringing it inside and letting it warm up, it began to move its wings and fly to the nearest houseplant.  I brought it outside, placed it on a plant sitting in the sunlight; eventually it flew away.  I bet it was a little happy camper after being cared about.












Skeletal Remains

Death is a common occurrence out in the wild and the environments in this area should NOT be taken for granted. If you must bring your pets, make sure they are leashed, kept in pet carriers, or housed somewhere that they are well cared for.










Desert Landscapes

 

In essence, when you take a vacation and go someplace you have never been before; please do not assume that any locals you speak with know everything about everything, have gone everywhere, have done everything.  Living out here in the Four Corners area, anyone is lucky to do about 25 percent in a lifetime; yes, there is just that much to see, do and experience!

Mary Cokenour



Camping Amongst Moonflower Canyon's Ancient Petroglyphs.

Datura (Moonflower)

In yesterday's write up on Kane Creek Blvd., I teased you with a few tidbits about Moonflower Canyon. This small box canyon is found about three miles up the road, and is appropriately named for the extensive growth of Datura (aka Moonflower, Jimsonweed, Angel's Trumpet) in the area. It is a sacred plant to the Native Americans and was used in ceremonies, mainly for the hallucinogenic properties which were needed for "vision quests".

Now I spoke with one of my Native American friends who told me that it is definitely not used anymore due to its also very toxic properties which can seriously injure brain and bodily functions, or cause death.  I'm going to get all the warnings about Datura done with now, but the gist of it is; don't eat it or you're taking your life into your own hands.  Datura is a part of the nightshade family containing naturally occurring tropane alkaloids.  These plants are essentially for landscaping, not culinary, use.  If ingested, get to the hospital immediately for treatment; it will take 24 - 36 hours for the plant to get out of the system with, hopefully, no side effects or damage.  Consider yourself thoroughly forewarned; now lets get back to Moonflower Canyon itself.

 

 

It is a completely beautiful environment with the Colorado River just across the roadway.  There are eight campsites available and this area is considered a "primitive" area with no water or electricity.  Moab is only three miles away if you need civilization, or supplies; there is a toilet facility and garbage bins, so no excuses on why you cannot keep your campsite clean.  As you explore, you will find a creek running through towards the far back of the Canyon; during rainfall, a large pothole fills with water, and sometimes a waterfall will form off the back wall.  It is a very quiet and peaceful area and your only visitors might be one of the local birds or lizards. 

The Canyon is surrounded by sandstone walls and many a cave has developed due to erosion; or perhaps helped to form by ancient hands.  I've seen folks camp in or nearby the caves; but like any campsite keep it clean, and most especially do NOT damage the sandstone walls.  You were there, but now you're gone; please don't carve your name to carry on.

 

 

Which brings me to one of the major reasons Moonflower Canyon has become a large tourist attraction, the Petroglyphs.  The petroglyphs date back about 2000 years during the Archaic Era to the Preclassic Era; basically when pottery making, loom weaving, stone grinding and drilling were in full swing.  Unfortunately these petroglyphs were seriously vandalized throughout the years, and the fencing around them doesn't keep all the "idiots" out.  Next to the "rock art" is a large split in the wall with remains of a wooden ladder inside.  It was theorized that the ancient Native Americans used this to climb up higher on the wall to carve their "writings". 

Moonflower Canyon is one of those places that, yes, you can see ancient Native American history; but it is a place that you can camp for the night, or bring a picnic meal and visit for the day.  It is one of those places that is tranquil, bringing rest to the body, mind and soul.  Enjoy the soothing.

Mary Cokenour

Welcome to the Desert.

The Desert

The desert is a deceitful mistress, who entrances with her charms.
Unwarily smitten, she can down you with one heatful blow.
Her minions, scorpion and rattlesnake, cling to her swells.
Willing to sting and bite any unguarded lover.

The desert is a barren mother, who yet gives life to many.
Her skin is dry and dusty, water a distant memory.
Flowery roots grow shallow in her grave.
Yet sagebrush clings as a predator’s claws.

The desert is warm, drawing out the stress.

The desert is cold, drawing you down to your death.
The desert is balance, she does not judge.
You live, you die at her behest.

 

Mary Cokenour
Written: March 11, 2012; Published in the "Desert Voice" 2012 issue.


In the spring, the temperatures begin to steadily climb; so imagine my thoughts when I am asked by a visitor to the area, "Why is it so hot here!?!?"  Now my answer depends on if they caught me off guard, so I might stammer, "Wh...aat?"  This gives the person the chance to truly think about the question before they ask again; or they just might truly ask it outright again; so my answer is now, "Ummm...it's the desert." while giving them a confused look.  If I'm paying attention when the question is asked, I now have the choice of being a smart ass, "Oh crap, the oven is on and I left its door open!", and run away pretending distress.  Or the factual, "Well this is summertime, and this is the desert", and how they process that answer is up to them; and believe me, having folks say "Oh" and walk away with a confused look makes me almost fall down laughing.

When Roy first asked me to visit Utah, I went online and did some research: where were we going?, what was the locale and weather like?, what kind of clothing did we need?, and other basic questions for my basic survival. Yes, I said survival; this was an adventure, and any adventurer plans survival tactics.  When we decided to finally move to the area, well his being born and raised out here gave him somewhat of an advantage on the knowledge front; but I had to learn and experience it before making a conscious effort to embrace it. 

Number One Rule you must know about the area...THIS IS THE DESERT!!!   The average temperature for the year is in the 70s (F), but can reach the 100s (F) during the warmer months; the 40s (F) during the colder months; and into the 30s (F) at night at any time throughout the year.  Rainfall is sparse and unpredictable; it dries up quickly; humidity is slim to none; rivers are a major source of water and fed from mountains with a high snowfall during the winter months...no snow means low water supply which equals drought.  Our area is currently experiencing this; July is monsoon season, so hopefully it will bring the relief we need.  Carrying bottles of water with you is essential when hiking out in the desert; wear white or light colored clothing and hats; bring a jacket or sweatshirt along if you're going to be out at night; always make sure to fill up your gas tank and have an extra five gallon jug stashed in the trunk.  Tell someone where you'll be; if something happens and you can't get a cellphone signal, they'll know where to look for you.  Maps and a compass are definite benefits!

So you're now asking, "Why in the world would anyone want to live out here!?!?" and that's a good question, but I can only give you answers from my, and my husband's, perspective.  To us, it is a wonderland of ecosystems working together; it is plants and animals the likes of I've only seen in museums, zoos or botanical gardens; it is healing magick of red rocks and sand; it is a blue sky so rich in color, it makes you want to cry with joy.  My hubby admitted that he wasn't sure if I would be able to live out here or not, being a "big city East coaster, but he sure knows better.  He now says that he would not be surprised if I had been one of the first pioneers out here; I've acclimated so well, it's like I have always lived in the Southwest.  My health has improved immensely where I could hardly walk two blocks without panting; to now walking two miles and wanting to keep going another two more.  Perhaps it's a past life coming through loud and strong; perhaps it's just a change I needed to live a better life; whatever it it, it feels like home.

Moab Sand Pile
 

Alright, enough sentimental stuff, lets get to some fun things.  In Moab, right on Route 191 and near the entrance to Arches National Park is a large sandpile to play with.  Not talking normal sandbox pile, I'm talking an entire side of a hill that can you can climb, run down, slide down; just have some old fashioned, big time fun on.






Big S Rock
 

Want something firmer under your feet?  Climb the petrified sand dune you'll see along the road to the Needles Overlook in the Canyon Rims Recreation Area.  I've seen this sand dune described as "Big 'S' Rock" due to the "S"s formed from the wind erosion.





Now when you're hiking around the desert, take a good look at the parched ground; fascinating how it looks so similar to a giant granny square quilt covering the area.  Bet you didn't know Mother Nature could quilt, did you?







Cryptobiotic Soil
 

While exploring, if you see signs saying, "Stay on designated trails", there are a couple of good reasons.  One, the agency overseeing the area doesn't want you lost and then have to go find you; Grand County Search and Rescue is the busiest agency in Utah during the summer months.  Two, you need to stay off the cryptobiotic soil (crust) which is a mass of living bacteria, fungi, lichen, algae and moss; enriching the sand and dirt with nutrients; bringing it balance, so plants can eventually grow and thrive. 

Plants grow and thrive? It's the desert, what could grow there besides sage brush and cactus?  True, cacti need very little water to live, and this area has some of the most beautiful varieties; one being the Prickly Pear.

Prickly Pear Cactus
 



Datura aka Moonflower, Jimsonweed
 

However, other flowering plants which you would think would need lots of water to thrive, do just fine living in the sand, or crevices of the red rocks.




Yellow Foxtails
 

It comes down to, when you hear desert, don't have a preconceived notice of what you're going to find. Sure it's sandy and hot, but think of it as a really, really large beach and have fun on it.

Mary Cokenour