Hiking Around Shay Canyon - Part One

Already gave you a taste of Shay Ridge and Shay Mountain up in the Abajo Mountains.  Now it's time to go to a lower elevation and tell you about Shay Canyon.  The trailhead to Shay Canyon is located about 2 miles west from Newspaper Rock Historical Site (my odometer puts it at 1.8 miles), along Scenic Highway 211.

Actually, this part one was a second hiking trip we took into Shay Canyon.  The first time we climbed upward to the walls of the canyon to ooh and ahh over the rock art panels.  Well I'm going to make you wait for that, as I think it's important you discover all the wonders there.  The Pillar, or what looks, from the highway, like a jug handle arch until you hike to it.  The plant and wildlife; and there are dinosaur tracks embedded into the rock bed of the wash.  Funny story about those dino tracks; walking along I said to my hubby, "Hey hunny, these look like dino tracks!" to which he responded, "Oh no, that's just erosion from water that ran through here."  Sure, I believed that until I found an online BLM report which stated "dinosaur tracks can be found within the rock bed of the dry wash".  So what does that mean?  Means we have to make a third trip back to find those tracks again and photograph them; believe me, this is not a problem or hardship.

Shay Canyon is a beautiful, secluded and soothing place to be; the quiet is very welcome.  We traversed two well worn paths, but came across huge boulders that required climbing over.  That wasn't a problem for us, it was the dark clouds moving closer that deterred us.  Rain can lead to possible flash flooding; it's bad enough to be in an area you know well, but in an unknown area.  Well, either way, we're not stupid enough to take the chance of getting caught up in a flood; a dry wash can become a raging river in seconds!

Anyway, enjoy the photos you're about to see; hint, doing this hike in April or May is much cooler, heat wise, than the hot, hot months of June through August.

Our second time there was in May; the drought in San Juan County had become so severe, Indian Creek was dry as a bone.  Instead of stepping on wet rocks to cross over, it was sand, dry sand we walked over.  After crossing over, a short trail leads you into the bedrock of a creek that once flowed through this canyon area.

We walked towards the pillar first, it's shape becoming more defined the closer you get to it.  Then trail continued for another 500 feet from the pillar, and then the boulders appeared and the only way around was over them.

Pass those bushes in the background is where the boulders blocked the actual path, and climbing over them is required.










Walking back to the Pillar, we started off on a second path.  Now one thing I have to tell you is that some stepping upward from rock bed to upper rock bed will be required on both of the dirt trails.  A walking stick is a huge help for keeping you steady on the climb ups.





There were a few interesting caves above us on the canyon walls; where any creatures were living inside them, we couldn't tell.  However, as seems to be becoming a pattern, turkey vultures suddenly flew in and began circling us.  Sorry fellas, we're not going to be your lunch this time either!

Turkey Vulture in Flight

There is an abundance of plant and wildlife in this area; prickly pear cacti and yucca were in bloom, as well as desert globe mallow and tufted evening primrose aka sand lily (name is understandable as it was growing up from the sandy soil in the dry wash.  Sitting upon a boulder was a desert lizard watching us; we could almost swear he winked at us.

Up on a ledge is Blooming Yucca and prickly pear cacti below it.

Desert Globe Mallow (Mallow family)

Blooming Prickly Pear Cacti growing in large patches, not a single plant.

During the day, this Tufted Evening Primrose takes a nap, but in the evening, the blooms will be in colors of white, pink and purple.  This is also called the Sand Lily, and that is exactly the growth medium the plant thrives in...sand.







Even in death, the trees split and twist into unusual shapes of beauty in their own right.

That's my hubby, Roy, standing by the twisted tree.

Now here comes your teasers for Hiking Shay Canyon - Part Two.  From the original trail, there is an offshoot trail that leads up to the canyon walls themselves; a half mile of rock art drawings and cravings from native tribes who lived in the area, or just passed through and left a message.  As with any historical site, the only trace you should be leaving is a footprint in the sand.

There is always something new to see in San Juan County, so plan your trip and expect to spend a few weeks to months.  One or two days, well it's just unacceptable!

Mary Cokenour

Random Roaming Along Scenic Byway 211.

Taking the road up through the Abajo Mountains is a simple given when you want to get away from the realities of the world for a little while.  Oh, all the problems and issues will still be waiting for you; but with a clear mind, maybe they won't seem as impossible as before.

A second area that can have the same effect is the Scenic Byway 211 that takes you to Canyonlands National Park - Needles District.  You don't have to go into the park to get your mind set back; why do you think it's called "scenic byway"?

500 feet before the parking area for Newspaper Rock is a small pull-in area; across from it is a trail heading?  Well, according to my DeLorme Utah map, it would have eventually connected up with the trail through Shay Canyon and onto Shay Ridge; we weren't going that far today.  We'd had a lot of rain, so the Indian Creek was flowing wonderfully; our dog, Jenna, loved playing in the rushing water.

Trailhead Across from Pull-In.



Roy and Jenna relaxing by a huge cottonwood tree.

Going towards Needles, it's always a thrill to be coming round the bend and the entire valley opens up.  The classic scene is Bridger Jack Mesa and the Six Shooters; they are always a breath taking scene.

We found the trailheads to Lavender and Davis Canyons, but we only went as far as the split.  All the rain we'd been having was causing flash flooding, and the trails were a total mess.  Good thing we didn't try them out at all; the next week I met a man who told me he and his son had gone out to Lavender Canyon.  A flash flood had hit and the road was underwater; they were stuck out there for four days!!!  They were smart enough to have plenty of food and water with them, but cell service in these parts is hit or miss.  Only the week before, a photographer had gone out to Davis Canyon, gotten stuck out there, tried to dig out his vehicle and died of a heart attack.  He had not told anyone where exactly he was going; this is why you don't go out alone, nor tell anyone where you are going!!!

An interesting site you might see along the roadways is a colorful grass-like plant. I've seen sunny yellow, bright green, deep red and purple; as pretty as this plant is though, it is a weed and can be dangerous to canines.  The seeds of Foxtail Grass are extremely tough and cannot be broken down by the body; ingestion can be fatal to dogs; embedding into the skin can lead to severe infections.  For more information, go to WebMD and their section on pets (website: http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/foxtail-grass-and-your-dog ).





As always, this jaunt along Route 211 included a picnic; sitting along the Indian Creek under the cottonwood trees could not have been more lovely.  With any trip into San Juan County's beautiful areas, have plenty of gas, healthy snacks, water and don't forget the picnic!

Mary Cokenour

Indian Creek Crack Gets You High.

Awhile ago I wrote several blog posts about Route 211, one being about Bridger Jack Mesa and the Six Shooters. Not only are these popular for hiking and exploring, but very popular with the climbing crowd. Now it's time to introduce you to the area that truly gets climbers high on crack...Indian Creek, the premier area for crack climbing. What!?! What did you think I was referring to when I mentioned "crack"?

Let me get a couple of maps posted here, so you can see where and what I'm writing about; that way I don't have to reprint location instructions that I've already done on those previous blog posts.

Indian Creek is the most sought after crack climbing destination in the world; the long parallel splitters and corners in Wingate sandstone; just the sight of them gets a climber's adrenaline pumping hard. Personally, my experience with crack climbing is simply...none; I prefer ledge climbing (is that a technical climbing term, I don't know) due to the abundance of hand and foot holds.  Looking straight up a sheer rock face, frankly, gives me vertigo and scares the bejesus out of me. 

Here is a little information I found out about this sport: Crack climbers use a technique called jamming to ascend natural weaknesses in cliffs, or naturally occurring fissures in the rock surface. Cracks vary in width from thin cracks that are the thickness or size of fingers, to wide chimneys that are climbed using feet and hands pasted onto opposing walls. Some climbers go "free hand" without using any rope or equipment; others using standard climbing equipment.


Some standard rules for the Indian Creek area are: Bring all your own water, pack out all of your trash (including bodily waste); bring in and take out all climbing gear.  There is a 14-day limit for camping on BLM Land; public toilets are located at Newspaper Rock, Needles Outpost and within the Canyonlands National Park.   Do not harass the cattle, ranchers or wildlife; stay on designated trails to keep from walking on, and destroying, the cryptobiotic soil.






How about I shut up for a little bit and give you photos of the area; traveling down Route 211 is wonderful, but it's when you turn one of those corners and see the vista coming up before you...




Bridger Jack Mesa and the Six Shooters are to the distant left.

Now for you climbers, get an eyeful of these walls that will call to you like the Sirens of Greek mythology.  You know you won't be able to resist.

 

Now see all that broken up rock and sand at the bottom of the walls; don't be fooled into thinking there isn't that much there, or it's a piece of cake to climb.  Personally I have gotten as far up as where the broken rock meets the sheer rock faces; looked straight upwards and said a big, "oh hell no" and scurried back down to level ground.

Now here's the funny story part; a couple of years ago I went out there with someone who had just moved to the area.  He (in his 20s) kind of snickered when I told him of my rock climbing exploits, me being "old" (in my 50s mind you) and overweight.  Took him to my favorite area (BLM constructed a parking area there) in Indian Creek and he got all excited about climbing those walls; so off he went.  Well it took him a long time to get to the base of the walls and he was pretty winded; and there I was a little ways nearby, sitting on a boulder and I asked him, "what took you so long?"  The shock on his face....priceless!  Though I've only been out here a few years, I bothered to get to know the area better than most locals.  I also have become acclimated to the higher altitude.  So, don't be snickering at anyone until you truly know what they can accomplish.



Bottom center of photo; there is someone standing on a boulder to give you perspective of the size.

Whether you're just visiting and want to see incredible sights; or a climber itching to get high; make sure to get down Route 211 to the Indian Creek area.

Mary Cokenour