Backway to the Bears Ears.

Finally I have the time to continue the adventure that began on South Cottonwood Road (CR 228); the green highlighted road on the map.  We already knew that going into Dry Wash via FR 095 would, more than likely, lead us into a snowy mess and along a narrow ledge road.  Using the National Geographic Map for the Manti-LaSal, we decided to follow South Elks Road (FR 092); the blue highlighted road on the map; towards the Bears Ears.  We were still in a relatively dry environment, so how bad could it be, right?  Ha!  Wait till you see what we went through, but we still had a ball doing it.

First, the map...

At mile 1.9, CR 229 leads off to the left; the scenery along FR 092 is stunning and we didn't officially enter the Manti-LaSal Forest until mile mark 3.2.  We certainly appreciated all the signs along the way that kept us informed as to where we actually were.

Black Steer Knoll, Abajo Mountains (in the distance)

Roy and Jenna

Mile mark 5.4 is the Cream Pots Trailhead leading down into Hammond Canyon; FR 399 or ATV trail 5399.  This trail can be used by hikers, mountain bikers, ATVers and high clearance 4-wheel drive vehicles.  By this time we began to see remains of snow and/or ice on the road, in the more shadier sections.  Up to then, the road (graded dirt and wide for two vehicles to pass comfortably) was dry, and the area warm enough not to need heavy outer clothing.  At 5.8 miles, we began ascending and saw to our left a beautiful sandstone ridge that resembled the spine of a dinosaur (we both have great imaginations).  This was Butts Canyon which stretches all the way into Arch Canyon.

Cream Pots and Hammond Canyon

Butts Canyon

...and then came the snow; well the snow covered road and forest off to both sides.  We stopped at mile mark 9.3 where a sign directs towards FR 0182/CR 2621 - Milk Ranch Point.  Luckily, other vehicles had been traveling along FR 092, so we just kept our wheels moving in the flattened ruts those others had left.  Along the sides though, the snow went from six inches to two feet; depending on how deep my feet and legs stepped in when taking photos outside the SUV.  Jenna loved running in the snow!  Oh, and it was definitely time to put the winter coats back on again.

We passed several trails along the way, but didn't want to deal with the snow as they obviously weren't being used.  At 10 miles is the Hammond Canyon Overlook (ATV trail 5301); 11.2 miles is FR 183 leading to Butts Point.  Now at 11.6 miles we came to a junction, FR 088, to the right, which lead to Elk Ridge, Big Notch and Gooseberry.  The road leading through Elk Ridge is a challenge in dry, warm weather; no way we were going near it in the winter and with snow on the ground.  We took FR 088/CR 228 Backway to the left and towards the Bears Ears.  13.1 miles is the Kigalia Trailhead, 13.8 is the Arch Canyon Overlook and 15.4 is CR 256, the Woodenshoe Trailhead; all were snowbound. 





At 16.5 miles we exited the dense forest; the sky behind us told of another storm moving our way; FR 184 leads off to the left, but we stayed straight with the Bears Ears (at 17.3 miles) looming before us.

Bears Ears

After the steep climb up and through the Bears Ears; a winding trail began downward to reach State Highway 95.  The views here were just as amazing as when we first began our adventure along FR 092.  We officially left the boundaries of the Manti-LaSal Forest at mile make 20.2; at 23.2 is CR 275 or the road to Natural Bridges National Monument; and at 23.9 we met up with Highway 95.

It was a thrilling adventure and thankfully we were able to complete it because of the high clearance on our SUV.  We are so looking forward to the warmer months when we can come back and do those trails that will no longer be snowbound.

Mary Cokenour

The Manti La-Sal National Forest Adventure - Part Two.

Part One left you off at the junction of FR 095 (The Causeway Road) and FR 088 (Gooseberry aka Elk Ridge Road); depending on what map you use FR 095 continues north-west, or changes its name to FR 088, but either way you are heading upwards to Horse Mountain. We made the left turn towards Elk Ridge and I'm warning you now, this roadway will not be for the faint at heart; I am very proud to say that I did not scream. I would do this trip again as there is so much to see in the area on nearby trails and I want to see it!







First the map; I highlighted FR 088 in hot pink; the color seemed appropriate for this wild ride. You must have a good map with you; you will be passing many signs directing you this way and that way, but barely any that will have the road number on them.  The first time you go through this area, it's best to pick a direction and stick with it; you can so easily get lost, or in a situation where Search and Rescue might be needed.

 

 

 

Driving along, the area is very pretty with aspen laden forest, green pastures, you might even see some deer grazing; very picturesque and a good area for that picnic meal.

Yeah, well hold onto to that lunch you just ate for the next stop is Elk Ridge.  Elk Ridge, at its highest point, is 8800 feet above sea level and overlooks the Dark Canyon Wilderness.  The road winds down around the ridge walls, there is barely room for two vehicles to pass; at times, one vehicle will have to pull as close to a canyon wall as possible to allow another vehicle by.  On the other side, Dark Canyon Wilderness spreads out below you; do not be surprised to see dirt from the roadway fall into the 1000 foot drop.  Do not hug that side of the road with your vehicle at any time; a chunk could be missing from the edge of the road and if your tire hits that....  This is a primitive road in all ways!  This is why I warned, in Part One, that a small to mid-sized 4-wheel drive vehicle is preferable; do not be one of those smart ass' who drives a "I need to overcompensate for my small short-comings" vehicle.

Quick Story: We had stopped at Big Notch to take photos and were parked more in the middle of the road.  There was no way I was getting out on the passenger side and stepping off into that 1000 foot drop into the canyon below.  Anyway, this huge, and I mean a cruise ship on wheels, sized silver pickup truck (belonged to some B & B, but can't remember the name) begins the climb from around the ridge.  I jump back into our SUV and we move over slightly; now they have a small switchback on their side, so no problem, right?  Wrong!  The pickup truck stops and the terror on the faces of the two occupants was quite evident; and they were waiting for us to move over even more!  Poor Roy had to get out of the SUV and help direct them into the switchback and around our vehicle; they didn't even say thank you!  So yeah, leave the ship on wheels at home; no one cares about your "small issues".

North Elk Ridge, looking eastward.



North Elk Ridge

 



Big Notch, also listed as "The Notch" on some maps overlooks Chimney Park and Notch Canyon; in the distance are the La Sal Mountains (northeastern view)









Big Notch

 



 South Elk Ridge overlooks Hammond Canyon (eastern view).



South Elk Ridge



After getting off Elk Ridge, the road widens out more and you come to the junction of FR 092; follow the road as it curves to the right to stay on FR 088 and your next stop will be Arch Canyon Overlook.  The trail to hike or ATV into Arch Canyon is about 7.5 miles long, but is the only way you'll be able to visit the three arches (Angel, Cathedral, Keystone), or see the ruins and rock art.  The sun was beginning the descent for the day when we finally arrived there.



Arch Canyon

 

 

One more stop and we'll be done with this 31 mile trek, 63 miles total between FR 095 and FR 088; we began our journey at 7:30am and finally returned home by 9:30pm and it was worth every precious moment!!!  Anyway, last stop is Bears Ears, and like many other travelers and adventurers, the reasoning behind the name escapes us.  Try as we might, look at them from every angle, but just not seeing the resemblance to the ears of a bear.

Bears Ears



Elevation 8929 feet above sea level



Elevation 9058 feet above sea level

It was exciting doing the ride, it was exciting to re-experience it while writing, hurry up summer 'cause I want to go back!  Part Three will be FR 079 - Johnson Creek Road; wait till you see those mountains!

 

Mary Cokenour