The Journey To, and From, Capitol Reef.

From Monticello, Capitol Reef National Park is about three hours away; give or take depending on how often photographic stops are made along the way.  Since we'd already done State Highway 95 twice in January; heading to Capitol Reef directly was the goal. 

We started out at 7am on a beautiful, clear morning; that is until we reached Cheesebox Canyon and saw the cloud cover over the highway.  As we drove, we wondered out loud if we should continue; checking the weather forecast at the Reef told us it would get better.  The awesome rock formations and canyons we were used to seeing were nowhere in sight as we drove; dense white allowed us to see about twenty feet around the vehicle.


We were finally at the rise that overlooks the Colorado River bridge (San Juan and Garfield County border) when we were given our first sign to continue....a ray of sun acted as a spotlight, urging us onward.  I believed that Mother Nature was on our side today; our resilience being tested and we would prove worthy.  We continued and when we reached the Dirty Devil River campground, the lit up area on the rock wall was nearby.

On the loop facing back towards the Colorado River Bridge.

Approaching Hanksville (Wayne County), we could barely make out the town or the North Cainesville and San Rafael Reefs seen from it.  We gassed up at the Shell Station that is at the western end of Hanksville (Route 24 West); ignoring the snowflakes lightly coming down.  We only stopped twice for photos; any wonders higher than 500 feet were cloud covered.  I took one closeup of the etched rock walls; lines of gypsum running through them.  The second stop was at a rock building protected by chain link fencing; this was settler's home from 1883 in Cainesville.  A brief history of Cainesville's settlers can be found Here; between disease and flooding, this area ended up being eventually abandoned.



Remains of an 1883 settler's home, Cainesville, Utah.

Nope, we had no intention of giving up; we looked at the cloud cover as a challenge!

Cloud Covered Lower Blue Hills

Another hour went by, and there it was, the sign post indicating Capitol Reef and what was located along the two roadways at the junction.  And we....


...."what, what, what did you do???",  is what you're probably asking at this point.  We had the most fabulous time at Capitol Reef National Park, that's what!!!  However, the entire post about the park will have to be for my next posting; that's right, I'm going to keep you in suspense.

But I'm not that nasty, on the way back home, we traveled Route 24 East to Hanksville and then back along State Highway 95.  The ominous cloud cover was almost fully lifted, so what we missed going to the park, we got to enjoy on the way home.  The sun shone brightly upon the Cainesville Reef; a moon scape of gray and black hills were revealed (hence the name of the Luna Mesa RV Campground).



Cainesville Reef

Snowy Luna Landscape

At another point (the photo of the sign post gives the location), a giant had left his hiking boots upon the crests of the hills above.

Left Boot

Right Boot

When we first came through, we had no clue any of this was high above us, or in the distance.  Our next stop was Factory Butte and while the clouds still covered the very top of the butte formation, the rest of the area was revealed.  This is an OHV (off highway vehicle) recreation area which does allow camping and hiking, and seems to be extremely with motorized dirt bikers.  As far as we were concerned, we were on the Moon, the Earth left far behind us.

East of Cainesville we stopped to take photos of this black/gray stone tower; as we passed it though, we had to take more photos as it now resembled a mitten; like you would see down in Monument Valley.

In Hanksville, the sky was now clear and blue; however, Route 24 going northward was still cloud covered; it was simply easier to head on home along SH95.  So, we left at 7am, got back to Blanding around 4:30pm and treated ourselves to burgers and curly fries at Patio Drive-In.  A most awesome day; remember though, I still have to tell you about the rest of our day and the fun we had at Capitol Reef.

Mary Cokenour

The State Highway 95 Saga - Salvation Knoll to Colorado River Bridge.

Winter gave us a brief reprieve with no more snow and warmer temperatures; that is until Groundhog's Day, but that's a whole other story. Roy and I decided to do the entire SH 95 drive to Hanksville, pickup Route 24 North to Interstate 70, to Route 191 and back home...a full circle. 260 photos later, I had enough to do write ups on each of the counties we passed through: San Juan, Garfield, Wayne, Emery, Grand.  So, this one will be from where we left off at the Cheesebox and to the end of San Juan County which is just before you step, or drive, onto the Colorado River Bridge.

When we travel, we do use maps, mile markings and landmarks; yes, there is GPS, cellphones, tablets and laptops.  As much as folks like to put all their trust in those items nowadays, they often will NOT work; signals and cell towers are NOT guaranteed.  Therefore, I will be giving mile markings for particular roadways and sites to see; point zero is the gas/convenience store at the corner of Route 191 and junction for SH 95, south of Blanding.  Make sure to have food, gas and water; there will be no facilities until you either go down into Hite (general store/gas), or all the way to Hanksville (general store, gas, restaurants, motels).

24.6 -  Salvation Knoll - In 1879, several of the Hole in the Rock pioneers went to find out what lay ahead for the wagon train.  They became quite lost, and eventually ran out of food; climbing up a hill (knoll); on Christmas Day (Dec. 25th) they saw the Abajo Mountains (aka Blue Mountains) approximately ten miles away.  One of the pioneers, George Hobbs, exclaimed, "This was surely salvation knoll."; hence the name.

Salvation Knoll - Probably what it looked like on that Christmas Day in 1879.



View of Comb Ridge from Salvation Knoll.

38.1 - This is the eastern end of Route 276 to Hall's Crossing, and a ferry that will take you across Lake Powell to the western end of Route 276 (Bullfrog).

45.4 - The Cheesebox and Cheesebox Canyon; this is the best viewpoint and there is a road marker.



Clouds moving through Cheesebox Canyon.

SH95 - Driving into the clouds.

50.3 - The buildings are now private property; but you can explore, 4 wheel drive or ATV, throughout the canyon area.  Make sure to stay off any other private properties.

Fry Canyon Lodge - private property

55.1 - Still in the Fry Canyon area; there is a historical marker for the desert tower known simply as "Needle".


55.8 - This is the first full viewing of Jacob's Chair, but it is a broadsided view which makes it look more like a recliner.

57.7 - Here is a marker indicating Jacob's Chair, and yeppers, it looks like a chair.  It is named for Jacob Adams; a cowboy and prospector who camped at a spring within the canyon.

Around mile mark 56 you'll begin to see some unusual rock formations, however it is a curvy section of the roadway and stopping for photos is too dangerous.  At mile mark 62.6 we were finally able to park and get a few photos, this area is known as Copper Point.  During San Juan County's various mining boons (gold, silver, copper, uranium, vanadium); copper deposits were found within the area.  Amasa Lyman filed a claim, calling the area "Copper Butte", but after more mines opened, it was renamed "Copper Point".  However, deposits were so small, it became quite an unprofitable venture.

Panoramic View from Copper Point, looking westward.

63.6 - There is a flat top mesa with a desert tower at its far end.  I haven't found any other photos or references to it; but the official green mile marker on SH 95 is 57.

66.0 - Looking ahead towards Glen Canyon Recreation Area.

67.0 - Another desert tower, this one is more square looking; again, cannot find any references to it; when you see it, you know you're about to enter Glen Canyon Recreation Area at 67.3 miles.  At 67.4, there is an access road to White Canyon campground and Lake Powell.

68.3 - There are pull-ins just before and just after this bridge; to the north is Brown's Rim; to the south is Farley Canyon.  Looking down, down, down to the gorge below, don't be surprised if a feeling of vertigo begins to overcome you.

North towards Brown's Rim.

South towards Farley Canyon.

Here's a few scenic panoramic shots at mile mark 71 and mile 72.

73.4 - This is the road to Hite, named after early settler Cas Hite; there is not much left of this small town as it was flooded over when Lake Powell was created.  There is a marina, general store with gas pumps, and ranger station; but for the most part it is considered a "ghost town".

74.0 - The first sighting of the bridge over the Colorado River; at 74.4 miles, as you drive or step onto the bridge, you leave San Juan County.  However, you don't officially enter Garfield County until you get off the bridge on the other side.  Either end, park into one of the pull-in spots and walk out to the center of the bridge for spectacular views of the river and landscapes beyond.

Rock formation near the San Juan County side of the pull-in.

 Looking southward along the Colorado River, the Henry Mountains in the distance.

Looking northward along the Colorado River.

Now here is one of those landscape shots that we took, and I forgot to mark down at what mile mark we saw it.  It's somewhere between Fry Canyon and Cheesebox Canyon; hopefully, when we make this trip again, we'll see it and mark down the location.  Hey, it happens, so busy enjoying the ride that documenting becomes an after thought.

Now to go work on the photos for the next section of the State Highway 95 trip, Garfield County.

Mary Cokenour