Open Your Eyes and See Nature's Surprises.

One warning I always give to visitors of the Southeastern corner of Utah; make sure your head is on tight, or it will spin right off your neck.  Traveling down Route 191 towards Moab,from Interstate 70, and continuing on, you will see sights that will make you truly believe you are on an alien planet.  Look up movies that have been filmed in Moab, Utah alone and the list is long; probably longer for Monument Valley.  Johnny Depp's newest film, "The Lone Ranger" was filmed there, as was an episode of the most popular British television show, "Doctor Who".

I've lived in this area for four years now and I'm still amazed at the new surprises I find.  I can visit a section every day for a week, and every day find something new I had not seen before.  That's the way it is here, and you have to keep your eyes open or risk missing something outstanding.  Let me give you a few examples...


As I mentioned, I've lived in Monticello for four years. We'd only just moved here when one day I heard these "screams" that many a person would assume was a woman, but I'd heard enough of these calls in zoos to identify it...a peacock. Yes, we have wild peacocks in our area, and it is not unusual to see one go strolling down the street. The males are bolder, and the smaller peahen is shy and tends to hide if spotted.  I enjoy taking walks through the neighborhood hoping to spot one of these birds; hoping more to find their beautiful feathers.  In Greek mythology, the peacock belongs to Hera, the queen of the Gods.

Lopez Arch

Traveling South on Route 191, one of the big attractions is Wilson's Arch.  However, did you know there was a "baby" arch just two miles down the road from it?  At mile marker 98 is a parking area; looking East you will see the "baby" arch.  I believe I first noticed it in 2011, but it could have been as early as 2010; I know for a fact that time does fly when having fun in this area of the Southwest.  After taking photos of it, I sent copies to the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) to inform them of my finding; haven't heard anything yet.  Wouldn't that be something if I had found an unknown arch and to have it named; what a legacy that would be!!!  Update: An agent at the BLM - Monticello Field Office informed me that this is called "Lopez Arch"; so much for having an arch named after me.


Keep on traveling South on Route 191 towards Monticello and eventually you'll see a large, domed shaped, sandstone formation with what looks like a temple on top.  This is Church Rock and the story is that when the Mormons first came to this area of Utah, they used a small cave inside as their first meeting place for worship.  Fortunately the gates to the fenced in land were open one day and visitors were allowed to travel up to the formation.  Indeed there is a small cave like area, but unfortunately it has been ruined by so-called artists and their graffiti.  The next day the gate was once again locked up, but it had been a thrill to have the one opportunity to step inside a natural piece of history.

Update:  July 2015

The 16' x 24' cave that can be seen inside Church Rock was contracted out by landowner, Claud Young.  It was dynamited out in the 1940s, so the rancher could store feed and salt licks for his cattle.  Claud Young was owner of this property during the time that Marie Ogden and her group resided in Dry Valley.  While some like to believe in the theory that Home of Truth members chiseled out the cave by hand to begin creating a church inside; this believe is based on hearsay, not facts.

The story about the pioneers happens to be another legend, and that is all; no truth to it.


Across from the Church Rock area is Route 211 which leads to Newspaper Rock and eventually to Canyonlands National Park (The Needles area).  I had mentioned in a previous post that a jug handle arch was just 1.8 miles West of Newspaper Rock itself.  This was another one of those if you don't pay attention the first time, the second time, even the third time, you're going to miss it.  I don't know how many times we rode past this point and didn't notice it, but one day we stopped to look southward and beyond; there it was!  It is not the typical arch that has been carved out of a sandstone wall by the wind and rain.  It looks to be more of a separate rock piece that is attached to another wall at the top and bottom, but the elements have rounded and smoothed it out to that jug handle appearance.


One of the advantages of riding as a passenger is getting to see things the driver cannot; gotta pay attention to the road you know.  My poor husband knows he better stop that vehicle when I say "Stop!" though.  This formation at the top of one of the sandstone mountains along Route 211 looks almost like a cottage with a chimney at the top; you could almost imagine a cloud floating by as the smoke emitting from it.



I think one of the funniest natural surprises came when I was stretched out on some flat rocks, just enjoying the beautiful day and feeling like a lazy lizard.  When there it was, a brightly colored, collared lizard had decided to join me on the rocks.  Bravely, or stupidly in anyone else's eyes, I put out a finger to touch it.  It flicked its tongue over my finger and then just stayed there; not moving to escape, just resting.  Nice to know I had its approval to be there.


Yeppers, make sure you travel through this area of the Southwest with wide open eyes; never know what you'll miss if you don't.

Mary Cokenour

Bridger Jack and the Six Shooters.

The title of this post could almost be that of a Western novel.  Continuing West on Route 211, you are constantly being awed by what lies around the next bend.  Whether it is opening up to a vast vista, or a parking area where you can hike out onto the range; make sure to stop.  Get out of the vehicle and listen; it is quiet, so quiet that you feel like you're the only person left on the planet.  Even the moon peeks out to keep her eyes on this alien landscape.

Bridger Jack Mesa and the Six Shooters
 

Coming around one bend, you suddenly see before you Bridger Jack Mesa and the Six Shooters.







Bridger Jack Mesa - traveling West view
 

        In the Indian Creek area, a couple of miles past the  Donnelly Canyon, Bridger Jack Mesa looms to your left.  Turn left onto Beef Basin Road, cross the river, drive over a cattle guard, immediately turn right and follow the road until right below the serrated ridge of Bridger Jack Mesa.  This is a rough road, so your vehicle should have 4 wheel drive (SUV, Jeep or ATV); a car won't fair well.  For climbers, Bridger Jack Mesa and the Six Shooters are a definite must and no dirt road is an obstacle. 

The story of Bridger Jack is that he was a Paiute (also spelled Piute) Indian medicine man who attempted to cure William Posey's (1923's "Last Indian War") sick child; the boy died and Bridger Jack was killed for his failure. 


Bridger Jack Mesa - traveling East view
 

There are ruins and petroglyphs indicating the area was used mostly by the Anasazi; later on it was used by the Archaic (basket weavers), Ute and Navajo.









The Six Shooters

North Six Shooter
 

South Six Shooter
 

The Six Shooters are Wingate sandstone towers, also known as desert towers.  Their iconic name comes from the famous pistol of the Wild West, the Six Shooter.  If looking at the top of the towers at a certain angle, the similarity to the gun becomes evident.  Getting to the towers can be a task; a dirt road (4 wheel drive required) can be taken to Davis Creek; after that it is a 1 to 5 mile hike depending on which tower you wish to get to.




After passing by these stone giants, you're almost to Canyonlands National Park where The Needles are located.  Consider this your second appetizer, or the soup and salad course of the adventure down Route 211.

Mary Cokenour












Newspaper Rock and a Surprise Down the Road.

In yesterday's post about Monticello, Utah, I mentioned that the mountain road eventually loops down and comes out on Route 211.  By the way, the name of the road is called Harts Draw Road; and Indian Creek camping grounds (tent and RV sites available) are nearby also.  Unless you want to do a U-turn and go back through the Abajo Mountains again to Monticello; there are two other options.  Option One: make a right turn and travel East to Route 191; on the way you'll see a small ghost town called "Marie's Place" or "The Home of Truth", but that's for another blog post.  Option Two: make a left turn and travel West going towards Canyonlands; there are many points of interest this way and I'm going to write about Newspaper Rock today.

Abajo Mountains

La Sal Mountains

Traveling West for a couple of miles...stop!  Ahead of you are the Abajo Mountains stretching westward.  Now look behind you to the East; those are the La Sal Mountains in the distance.

 

Newspaper Rock has been dated back about 2000 years and no one really knows the true meanings behind the drawings.  They could be messages, ritual symbols, stories or simply artwork; and which culture contributed which drawings is uncertain.  Unfortunately it has been defaced, as many of the petroglyph areas have been, by, for lack of a better word, stupid people who believe their initials/names and dates are important to the rest of the visitors.  While having a "guestbook" for visitors to sign might be helpful, these idiots would probably find a way to deface that also.

Newspaper Rock
 

 

 

The drawings have been scratched into sandstone walls covered in "Desert Varnish"; a blackish manganese-iron residue that gradually forms on exposed sandstone cliff faces.  Rain water causes exposure while bacteria helps the residue to adhere to the sandstone.


Example of Desert Varnish







Humanoid and animal figures are distinctive; as well as the sun, two figures touching a tree, the spiral, the wheel and the plus (+) symbol inside a circle which many believe represents the element of Earth.

 

 

There are some spectacular views as you look around the area also.  If you happen to be wondering, there is a small parking area at Newspaper Rock with restrooms at one end.  The walk to the actual wall itself is only about 1/10th of a mile; and so worth the minuscule effort.

 

Now when you leave Newspaper Rock to travel further towards Canyonlands, don't be in such a rush to speed down the road.  First off, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous, but secondly is what is waiting to be seen only 1.8 miles down the road.

 



 

Look to your left (South) and you will see a jug handle arch; it is easily visible going West, but coming back East you cannot see it.  There is a small pull in area nearby, but you will still have to walk up the road a bit to be able to take a decent photo.  Now in Moab, Utah there is an arch on Potash Road called Jughandle Arch; I'm calling this one a similar name for want of a better description.  It looks like a jug handle; I cannot find it named on any maps and when I ask about it, no one seems to know a thing about it.  Perhaps everyone is too busy speeding between Newspaper Rock and Canyonlands to notice it, but I happen to enjoy the scenery, so speed to nowhere.

 

Consider this blog post your first appetizer for Route 211; there is definitely more to come.

 

Mary Cokenour



Happy Fourth Anniversary of Living in Monticello, Utah!!!

Four years ago, May 18, 2009, my husband and I moved into our current home located in Monticello, Utah (founded in 1888).  Originally we had planned on moving to Moab, Utah, but while housing prices plummeted in Pennsylvania, they remained quite high in Moab.  After revisiting the area in 2008, we settled on a second choice in case Moab stayed out of our reach; the small city of Monticello.  Now after living in large populated areas in New York and Pennsylvania, Monticello seemed far out of the definition of city with a population still under 2000.  Nevertheless, we purchased a home that had been severely neglected; put tons of love, and cash, into its revitalization; and here we still remain.  There is so much more we would love to do with the rebuilding of the home, but until we hit the big lottery jackpot...

Traveling South from Moab, Utah on Route 191 you begin to see the outskirts of Monticello.  The speed limit throughout town is 30, and you better abide by it.  Center and Main Streets are the crossroads for Routes 191 (leading to Blanding, Bluff and eventually, Monument Valley) and 491 (leading to Colorado).  The town is under-established business wise with the majority being hotels and motels.  Most residents, whether they admit to it or not, do much of their shopping in Cortez, Colorado (only one hour away on Route 491) which has two major supermarket chains and a WalMart.  For tourists, there is The Hideaway Golf Course for those interested in golfing, but the largest attraction is Canyonlands National Park which features The Needles, and many other breath taking formations, arches and Indian ruins. 

 

The Abajo Mountains
 

Monticello is 7100 miles above sea level and sits beneath the watchful eye of the Abajo Mountains.  It is normally 20 degrees cooler than Moab which is wonderful during the summer months; winter is a whole other story though.  A paved road leads up to and throughout; eventually leading out to Route 211 to Canyonlands or back to Route 191.

The scenery up in the Abajos is so beautiful; mountains, forest, brushland (aka prairie, range), desert, grassland work in perfect harmony.  There are trails to be hiked, rocks to be climbed, places to picnic and you are surrounded by, not just sheer natural beauty, but absolute quiet.  You can hear your own heart beat while breathing in the crisp, clean air.

Loyd's Lake

Foy Lake

 







   There are three lakes in the Abajos; Loyd's Lake, Monticello Lake and Foy Lake; along with many camping areas around the  lakes, or nearby.


Monticello Lake
 

Sunrise
 

Sunset

What has taken my breath away, simply astounded me even to this day is the sky.  The most perfect blue sky I have ever seen; not that pollution filled sickly bluish-green, but BLUE!!!  The clouds are brightly white and so puffy.  The stars at night are as bright as diamonds; when the moon is full it's as if you could actually put your hand up and touch it.

Night
 

Monticello, Utah is not a perfect town; yes, it needs to come into the 21st century by providing more business, not just for its residents (which means employment too), but to attract more tourists and their dollars.  Instead of many places closing down for the winter, they could remain open if winter sports areas were established in the mountains.  Monticello needs to grow and I am not the only resident who feels this way; but we all agree that it cannot expand too rapidly or largely.  Keep the quaint town feel, but make sure all those storefronts are open for business!

As to residing in Monticello, I certainly encourage anyone who wants to live in a beautifully scenic environment to purchase a home here.  The big city?  Visit if you need to, but don't live there if you want to remain sane and healthy.  Sometimes someone will ask me if I ever intend on going back to the East Coast...OH HELL NO!!!

Mary Cokenour




Now where to start this new adventure....

Back in 2006, my then "boyfriend", who is now my husband decided it would be a good idea to bring me out to the Southwest. He had been born in Denver, Colorado and lived in many areas throughout Colorado, New Mexico and Utah. Roy wanted his family members to meet me, and lets be honest, he wanted their approval. I was curious about them too, and lets be honest, I wanted to see what I was really getting myself into. We rented a car with a large trunk; I knew we'd be bringing back lots of souvenirs and what-nots. 

                                                             Yes, Yes!!!  I will admit to it now, I actually brought home a real tumbleweed.








Driving across the country can be a thrill depending on what routes you use, and the states themselves.  If you live on the East Coast, make sure you do most of the traveling on Interstate 70; it's the simplest route.   Watch out going through St. Louis, Missouri as their highway system is a bit erratic lane wise; you believe you're in the correct lane and suddenly a sign tells you to jump three lanes over if you want to continue on your designated route.  Kansas is by far the worst state to travel through; nothing but flat, brown land for six hours and billboards full of religious gloom and doom. 

The most spectacular state is Colorado and traveling through the Rocky Mountains; no photo in a magazine or show on the television screen can do them true justice.  Roy laughed watching my reaction, "Honey", he said, "You had your mouth wide open in shock the entire way through".  Of course I did!  I was in a place I'd never, ever thought I'd ever be in, and it was absolutely breath taking.

The entire trip there took two days and we were so exhausted by the time we reached our final destination, Moab, Utah.  Roy's mother and brother still live there, but we decided to stay in a hotel instead.  We showered, got a quick meal and then collapsed into bed; not waking till the next morning.  Opening the door and stepping out onto the balcony, I was greeted by the sunlight against the Red Rocks; the bluest sky I'd ever seen; and air so fresh my lungs went into shock.

Don't worry, I'm not going to give you every detail about this trip, nor a slide show of photos that will take hours.  What I will do is tell you that I fell in love, in love!!!, with the area; the ecosystems, environment, animal life, plant life.  Lying on flat rocks out in the desert, I was contented as any of the local lizards.  There is barely any humidity, the air is clean and I could breathe!  I walked for hours, climbed rock piles so high that Roy stated, "The spirit of the mountain goat is within you", along with "Come down from there before you kill yourself!!!".  I wanted to stay out here and not go back to Pennsylvania's blue-green skies of pollution, and humidity so high that you always felt damp and steamy.

We did eventually move out to Utah, and this story will develop with each separate writing.  There will be lots of photos, so if my writing bores you, at least enjoy the visuals.  Oh, why did I really start this new blog; the photos.  I have always been pretty adept at taking nature and landscape photos, and folks kept saying, "You should start a travel blog".  My food blog, Food Adventures of a Comfort Cook is pretty well established now, and picking up in popularity. As I was taking a ride through the Abajo Mountains today, taking photo stops and letting one of my dogs romp around, a title for this blog finally hit me that I was happy with. I have brown eyes that are constantly growing wide at the thrilling sights of the Southwest; hence the name.

So here is my introduction for this new blog, and I've lots of thinking to do about how I'm going to introduce you to all the adventures I've had, and all the new ones I'll be having.  I may go in time order, I may jump around a bit; ha! more like a lot, but it's going to be a grand time no matter what.

Thanks for reading....

Mary Cokenour