House on Fire Ruins and Trail.

Mule Canyon/Texas Flat Road has already offered us adventures exploring Lower and Upper Arch Canyon, Mule Canyon, Texas Flat and Bear Cave; and now we needed to do House on Fire.  Dallin Tait of Four Corners Adventures had shown us exactly where to access the trailhead; the best time to see the fiery illusion was between 8am to 11am; by 12 Noon it would be in full shadow.

We loaded up our backpacks with water, healthy snacks and other necessities, plus a sturdy walking stick for me.  Although it was one mile in, one mile out, we would be sliding down into a dry wash, and climbing back up sandy slopes.  Having a "third leg" to lean on would be a huge help; it also aided in testing sandy patches between rocks to see if they were secure when climbing up to ledges.

The road is located 19.6 miles along State Highway 95 (from Highway 191, south of Blanding).  The trailhead is located 3/10ths of a mile, left hand side of the road, there is parking on both sides, but watch you don't go too close to the edges.  The beginning of the trail is steep going down and back upward; expect to do a bit of sliding on the sandy soil; again, a walking stick helps. 




Going Back Up.

Going Down.





Once on level ground, we found a survey marker in a sandstone wall from 1958; the information board only 20 feet away with a map that, well it wasn't much help.  What did help was paying attention to the trail and seeing where others before us had walked; this especially helped going into and out of the dry wash many times.







Into and Out of the Dry Wash Often.

There were deer making their way through the dry wash, the brush and eventually upward to the cliff sides.  We didn't see or hear any mountain lions, but saw prints in the sandy soil; they were watching us I'm sure.  When doing this sort of hike, do not go alone; injuries could occur due to falling, sliding, tripping, losing footing on the rocks on the dry wash floor, and animal attack.  If you absolutely have to do it alone, make sure to let someone know where you are going, when to expect your return, all pertinent information about yourself, and contact information for next of kin.  You might think I'm kidding around, but Search and Rescue for both Grand and San Juan Counties are two of the busiest in the state of Utah.



Back to the hike, the scenery is gorgeous along the trail; there are many other alcoves (ledges with a roof) which seemed perfect for ruin sites.  Perhaps there had been at one time, and they have totally been destroyed; or the ancient Indians did not see the use.  I climbed up to one such alcove and it was lovely up there; miniature arches at the edges; potholes and nesting areas.  As with House of Fire ruins, these alcoves are also ablaze from the rays of the sun; yet the temperature was cool inside.

Not using a pedometer, one can estimate a mile on natural terrain should take about 45 minutes; we estimated one hour with photographic stops.  We had just turned a corner, as we walked through the dry wash, and suddenly we saw the edge of a ruin through the brush.  As we continued forward, the entire site opened up to us....breathtaking, spectacular, blazing with fire due to the tilting of the mushroom dome and desert varnish streaks on the inside of the roof.  The climb upward is steep and there are two spots we found for making the trek up and down; by the way, there is a geocache located at one of the spots.  There is enough room to lie down or squat at the openings to peer inside; there are warnings there about climbing inside; the stone is old and fragile, so no damaging it! 

Looking Inside a Room

House on Fire Video

Surprisingly, we did not find any rock art around the site, not even moving through the rocky hallway to the far left of the ruins themselves.  Exiting the hallway, we came out on a ledge that we could follow back to the ruins.  There is an excellent view of the canyon beyond (there are more ruins as you travel along; this could be an all day adventure), and a cave across the dry wash.

After returning to our vehicle, we indulged in a light lunch; next on the agenda was Cave Towers.  I had been there the day before with a group, but the 35-45 mile/hour winds made ledge walking a bit sketchy.  This new day was clear, calm and perfect for taking my hubby there, and showing him the wonders.

Mary Cokenour

Ode to the Old West Cook.

Chuck Wagon, Ranch House, Wagon Train; the cook had one of the toughest jobs of the Old West.  Not only was he responsible for providing meals, but they better be good ones if he didn’t want to find himself staked out over an ant hill, or worse, lynched.  Provisions, many times, ran scarce which meant nothing could be wasted, it had to be transformed into something belly filling, and definitely not make anyone ill.  We take for granted supermarkets with every food item imaginable; we take for granted that restaurants and fast food joints are just around the corner.  Not so easy for all, not just the Utah, pioneers of the 1800s, and early 1900s where the next meal might be sucking on cactus juice, or roasting rattlesnakes.

Which brings me to the tale of Harry (or Henry, presuming that was his full name) Hopkins; cook for the LC (Lacy (ey) Coleman) Cattle Company.  After the horrors of being a soldier during the Civil War Era, Harry decided to move to Colorado, join a ranch, be a cowboy; and he must have been a darned good cook.  Eventually, he found himself in San Juan County, Utah; continuing the cowboy life and running the kitchen there as well.   “Wash, a Ute Indian, reported a white man had been killed by lightning near the head of Devil Canyon.  Investigation showed that Hopkins, the L.C. cook, had been shot in the back – supposedly by an Indian.  He was found by Hickory Dennis and another cowboy lying face down with a pair of field glasses in his hand.  Before coming to the country he had been a cook for the riders on the Disappointment range in Colorado, at the time several Indians had been killed in a fight with the cowboys.  The Utah Settlers felt certain that the Utes had taken revenge on this inoffensive man.” ~from Saga of San Juan San Juan County DUP; page 94.

History of San Juan County by Albert R. Lyman filled in more of the story (page 62-63); “"In the late spring or early summer, while the new settlers were farming at South Montezuma, and making such preparations as they could to move to Monticello the next spring, the Ute known as Wash came in reporting a dead white man somewhere up the creek. Parley Butt went with him and found the body of a man named Hopkins. He had been cooking for the L. C. outfit and someone had apparently shot him from ambush while he waited on a log fence for the outfit to return.  He had crawled a short distance from the fence before he died."   Only 3/10ths of a mile from the grave is an old corral; could this have been the “log fence” where Harry was shot, and he crawled with the last of his life energy to where he is buried now?

Back then, the Indians blamed the white people; white people blamed the Indians; cowboys from competing ranches blamed each other, the Mormon settlers or the Indians.  Since all the people from that era are long dead and buried, and history is usually written by the victors, we'll probably not find out the true story, unless someone finds a written confession from dear old great grandpa. 

We came upon Harry‘s grave on one of our gallivants through the Manti-LaSal Forest in the Abajo Mountains one spring day.  Riding past the NFS campground at Devil’s Canyon, there is a junction six miles inward; the flip of a coin decided which trail to continue on.  At 7/10s of a mile (on CR 110/FR 084 eastward to Hwy. 191)), we got a real surprise...Harry Hopkins Grave.  Who was Harry Hopkins, How did he die, and Why is he buried off this forest trail poked at my curiosity; the research began. 
 

Now some folks asked me, “Why do you care so much about him?”  Simple answer really, because I can, and someone should.  One of the basic fears we have about dying is not being remembered; not having our life story passed on, or even our grave visited.  While an Eagle Scout Project by Cameron Palmer gave Harry a trail marker and information board; it wasn’t cared for after a while.  The plastic covering over the information sheet did not protect the paper, so it is extremely faded and illegible (May 2016); by November 2016, someone had torn it down completely.   I found out that local Sue Morrell and her husband often ATV up to the grave, fixing the fencing if needed.  While another visitor had placed plastic flowers near the headstone; Roy and I cleaned the dead leaves and debris away to make his name seen clearly.

So, to honor the memory of this Old West cook, I give to you my recipe for “Cowboy Stew for the Crock Pot”.  I’d like to imagine I would have made a good ranch cook myself, but then again, electricity has spoiled me.

Cowboy Stew for the Crock Pot

 Ingredients:

2 lbs. lean roast beef, cut into 1 inch pieces

4 russet potatoes, unpeeled and cut into 1 inch pieces, parboiled
2 large carrots, peeled and cut into ¼” slices, parboiled (or use 8 oz. bag of baby carrots)
1 large onion, rough cut into 1/2” pieces
1 tsp. sea salt
1 tsp. ground black pepper
1 tsp. paprika
2 (28 oz.) cans vegetarian beans
2 cups barbeque sauce

Preparation:

In 6 qt. crock pot, set on low, mix together beef, potatoes, carrots, onion, salt, pepper and paprika.  Spread beans over top, then bbq sauce.  Cover, let cook 6-8 hours; beef will be very tender.  Serve with cornbread or biscuits.

Note on leftovers, if there are any; the gravy will thicken and become richer.

 

Mary Cokenour

 

  

Happy New Year 2017...We Can Only Hope.

For the New Year, my husband and I have one resolution to keep; to maintain hope.

2016 has been one of the most horrendous years that either of us has ever experienced. 

With not being able to get decent health insurance through an employer, we were forced into "Obamacare".  Necessary prescriptions for our diabetes care were kept out of reach due to high, high prices healthcare refused to cover.  Even the pharmaceutical companies gave us difficulty in getting a cheaper price on prescriptions; or said "NO!" because Obamacare should cover it all, but it didn't.

Tax time, we were slammed with outrageous fines for not staying within the poverty level.  Even though we made monthly payments; we were told "Not Enough, we want more!!!"  We were punished for getting healthcare through the government, when we should have had private insurance from the beginning.  Can't pay...too bad, now we'll take the money anyway!

We both had to dip into our existing IRAs to make ends meet; thereby being fined even more.  By the time either of us finally reaches an age we can get into the IRAs without being fined; we might be dead by then.  The age requirement keeps getting raised higher and higher; as we walk forward, the long hallway gets longer and longer.

It simply was, no matter how we attempted to get out of a hole, we were punished for even trying.

Finding full time employment has been one rejection after another; primarily due to the main facts of #1 - not being born and raised in the area; #2 - not following the "correct" religion;  #3 - not being descendants of a particular group.  It is a well known fact that this occurs again and again to others as well; it is a sick cycle that needs to be completely repaired.  We still have hope for changes in where we live; we still have hope that finally someone will stand up and say "Enough is enough; we welcome everyone completely, and not with restrictions to life here!"

There are a few people who care for us just because.  They don't care about those three reasons above; they care because we are good, kind, caring, loving people.  It's so wonderful to know that some do have their eyes, ears, hearts open to us.

While we have been struggling hard not to file for bankruptcy; unless there are serious financial changes for us in 2017; there will finally be no choice.

I am 58 years old now; I have worked since I was 16 years old; 42 years and within one year, I have lost almost all my savings.  Roy is 44 years old, he has worked since 16 years old also; 28 years of employment and wondering where has it all gone.  Retirement?  Not for me, not anytime soon at all; perhaps never at the rate we're going.

Many will read this and say, "We're in the same boat; we understand and feel your pain."  Others will say, "We wish we could help you, but not right now".  Many others will say, "We have ours, you can't get yours; we certainly wouldn't help you for any reason."  It is what it is.

So, Happy New Year from the Cokenours.  May the coming of a new President bring prosperity back to all the American people, not the chosen few.  May Karma punish those who revel in the pain and suffering happening to others.  May Karma punish those who have caused the pain and suffering.  May Karma bless those who have helped us, whether we know them, or they were anonymous; they cared and that was all that mattered...the caring.

Roy and I will rise up again; it may take some time and doing, but we will prevail!!!  Currently I'm filled with despair and anger tied together like the double helix of DNA.  I would love to see that change to happiness and relaxation.

Mary Cokenour

Half Day Tour with Four Corners Adventures.

Four Corners Adventures

254 East Center Street (Hwy 191)
Blanding, Utah, 84511

Phone: (435) 678-2628

Website: http://www.riversandruins.com/

Jared Berrett, Owner
Spring Berrett, Owner
Dallin Tait, General Manger, Lead Guide

Dallin Tait, foreground; Jared Berrett,  background

On November 10, I wrote about my adventure, with Roy, at Upper Arch Canyon Overlook.  Imagine my surprise when I went into work and was told, November 17th; trip with Four Corners Adventures with welcome center people from Monticello, Blanding, Bluff; Utah's Canyon Country staff; and members of Utah.com.  On the agenda was Upper Arch Canyon Overlook, Cave Towers (aka Seven Towers) in Mule Canyon, and maybe House on Fire.

The morning of the 17th began with snow, only about 1/4 of an inch, and about 35 to 40 mile/hour winds; but would this cancel our trip?  Oh hell no!  8:30am our ride showed up at the Welcome Center and away to Blanding we headed; last ones to arrive at the Four Corners Adventures office, but anxious to get going nonetheless.  One of the owners, Jared Berrett, gave us a brief update on what the plans were for the half day; we also were introduced to lead guide, Dallin Tait; and a guide up from Kayenta, Louis.

Into two, heavy duty, travel vans we packed in and off to Upper Arch Canyon Overlook we headed along State Highway 95.  Once we turned onto Mule Canyon/Texas Flat Road; Dallin stopped the van to show us the trailhead to House on Fire.  Might as well tell you now that we didn't get to hike to it this day; between the snow on the ground and the cold, high winds, many of the group didn't feel up to it.  Don't be disheartened; the next day it was much warmer, no wind, so Roy and I made the trek and I'll be doing a post about that on a later date.   Back to this story...

Upper Arch Canyon Overlook looked very different from when I'd been there on the 10th; snow kissing the red rocks, dense cloud cover blocking out the mountains, and a good amount of the canyon beyond Cathedral and Angel Arches.  Jared and Dallin warned everyone to stay away from the peninsula's edges because of the high winds.  It wouldn't do for anyone to go flying off into the canyon, and with a parachute!  Of course Jared had to put shock into us all when he took a group photo; there he stood, up on a boulder, mere inches from the edge.

Upper Arch Canyon Overlook

Members of the group walk the peninsula.

Cathedral Arch

Cave Alcove Across from the peninsula.

Foggy Upper Arch Canyon.

 

 

Next stop on our trek was a mere 3/10ths of a mile east of Mule Canyon/Texas Flat Road.  There is a gate across the dirt trail; simply open the gate and make sure to close it behind you.  Another 3/10ths of a mile and we were at the parking area for Cave Towers aka Seven Towers; the choice is to walk the 350 feet to the ruin site, or drive.  With the severe cold the winds brought, driving was a great choice, but beware, this is one heck of a rocking and rolling trail ahead over slickrock and deeply rutted road.

 
 






At the site there is a single grave, fenced in, but no information listed anywhere; not at the grave site, not even on the information boards.

The trail to the ruins is not that difficult; sometimes climbing up onto rocks, and the dirt trails are loose dirt with small stones.  For extra leverage, a walking stick is a handy tool to carry.  Along the way, a hidden spring can just barely be seen down from a rocky ledge; we couldn't hear it though because of the wind.

The seven towers (3 partially standing, 4 collapsed) are along the short side of the oval surrounding Mule Canyon.  To the left, this trail is on less of an incline; the trail to the right climbs up higher and the trail is very narrow.  Walking the ledge, pueblo ruins, including a kiva can be seen along the northern wall ledges.  There are granaries tucked here and there along the wall ledges also.

Side note:  The next day, after visiting House on Fire, Roy and I went back to Cave Towers.  We found all 7 towers, could hear the hidden spring, and walking the ledges was a dream.  As we went further along the oval, we could make out more ruins along the wall ledges, and didn't have to worry about getting blown off the edge by the wind!  I will be writing up two separate blog posts, one on House on Fire, the other of the second visit to Cave Towers.  Make sure you're a Follower of my blog, and you won't miss a thing!

Cave Towers aka Seven Towers

What a View!  Tables of the Sun in the far distance.

Cave Alcoves below.

Pueblo and Kiva Ledge Ruins.

Upper Ledge.

Lower Ledge

Granary tucked into a corner.

 Views of Mule Canyon.

Thankfully, Jared and Dallin had hot chocolate and granola bars waiting for us back at the vans.  Let me tell you, after one hour of hiking, climbing and photographing; I could no longer feel my hands or face.  Back home though, I admired the fresh, pink skin; imagine, women pay thousands of dollars to go to spas for the same result.  All they needed to do was walk around cliff ledges, in 35-40 mile an hour winds for an hour.  Who knew!?!

Ah Louis, I'm not forgetting Louis; he was a pleasure to speak with; very knowledgeable as a guide, but better yet....he and I got to discuss Native American foods!

Anyway, back at Four Corners Adventures main office, we said our goodbyes and headed back to our respective visitor centers or offices.  It was also a pleasure to meet the folks of Utah.com; whom I often share links of my travel blog adventures with.  This was a most awesome half day adventure with Four Corners Adventures.

If you're interested in one of their guided land tours which includes:

ANASAZI RUINS & ROCK ART
JEEP ADVENTURES
HUMMER TOURS
RZR EXTREME EXCURSIONS
CANYONEERING
BACKPACKING EXPEDITIONS
MOUNTAIN BIKING

-  OR  -

RIVER TRIPS (1/2 DAY TO 10 DAY)

Give Jared, Spring or Dallin a call to help you make the best choices for your adventuring.

Mary Cokenour